In a subsequent tour of observation, I encountered another
of these relics of a 'foregone world' locked up in the heart of the city. I
had been wandering for some time through dull monotonous streets, destitute of
any thing to strike the eye or excite the imagination, when I beheld before me a
Gothic gateway of mouldering antiquity. It opened into a spacious quadrangle
forming the court-yard of a stately Gothic pile, the portal of which stood
invitingly open.
It was apparently a public edifice, and as I was antiquity
hunting, I ventured in, though with dubious steps. Meeting no one either to
oppose or rebuke my intrusion, I continued on until I found myself in a great
hall, with a lofty arched roof and oaken gallery, all of Gothic architecture. At
one end of the hall was an enormous fireplace, with wooden settles on each side;
at the other end was a raised platform, or dais, the seat of state, above which
was the portrait of a man in antique garb, with a long robe, a ruff, and a
venerable gray beard.
The whole establishment had an air of monastic quiet and
seclusion, and what gave it a mysterious charm, was, that I had not met with a
human being since I had passed the threshold.
Encouraged by this loneliness, I seated myself in a recess of
a large bow window, which admitted a broad flood of yellow sunshine, checkered
here and there by tints from panes of colored glass; while an open casement let
in the soft summer air. Here, leaning my head on my hand, and my arm on an old
oaken table, I indulged in a sort of reverie about what might have been the
ancient uses of this edifice. It had evidently been of monastic origin; perhaps
one of those collegiate establishments built of yore for the promotion of
learning, where the patient monk, in the ample solitude of the cloister, added
page to page and volume to volume, emulating in the production of his brain the
magnitude of the pile he inhabited.
As I was seated in this musing mood, a small panelled door in
an arch at the upper end of the hall was opened, and a number of gray-headed old
men, clad in long black cloaks, came forth one by one; proceeding in that manner
through the hall, without uttering a word, each turning a pale face on me as he
passed, and disappearing through a door at the lower end.
I was singularly struck with their appearance; their black
cloaks and antiquated air comported with the style of this most venerable and
mysterious pile. It was as if the ghosts of the departed years, about which I
had been musing, were passing in review before me. Pleasing myself with such
fancies, I set out, in the spirit of romance, to explore what I pictured to
myself a realm of shadows, existing in the very centre of substantial
realities.
My ramble led me through a labyrinth of interior courts, and
corridors, and dilapidated cloisters, for the main edifice had many additions
and dependencies, built at various times and in various styles; in one open
space a number of boys, who evidently belonged to the establishment, were at
their sports; but everywhere I observed those mysterious old gray men in black
mantles, sometimes sauntering alone, sometimes conversing in groups: they
appeared to be the pervading genii of the place. I now called to mind what I had
read of certain colleges in old times, where judicial astrology, geomancy,
necromancy, and other forbidden and magical sciences were taught. Was this an
establishment of the kind, and were these black-cloaked old men really
professors of the black art?
These surmises were passing through my mind as my eye glanced
into a chamber, hung round with all kinds of strange and uncouth objects;
implements of savage warfare; strange idols and stuffed alligators; bottled
serpents and monsters decorated the mantelpiece; while on the high tester of an
old-fashioned bedstead grinned a human skull, flanked on each side by a dried
cat.
I approached to regard more narrowly this mystic chamber,
which seemed a fitting laboratory for a necromancer, when I was startled at
beholding a human countenance staring at me from a dusky corner. It was that of
a small, shrivelled old man, with thin cheeks, bright eyes, and gray wiry
projecting eyebrows. I at first doubted whether it were not a mummy curiously
preserved, but it moved, and I saw that it was alive. It was another of these
black-cloaked old men, and, as I regarded his quaint physiognomy, his obsolete
garb, and the hideous and sinister objects by which he was surrounded, I began
to persuade myself that I had come upon the arch mago, who ruled over this
magical fraternity.
Seeing me pausing before the door, he rose and invited me to
enter. I obeyed, with singular hardihood, for how did I know whether a wave of
his wand might not metamorphose me into some strange monster, or conjure me into
one of the bottles on his mantelpiece? He proved, however, to be any thing but a
conjurer, and his simple garrulity soon dispelled all the magic and mystery with
which I had enveloped this antiquated pile and its no less antiquated
inhabitants.
It appeared that I had made my way into the centre of an
ancient asylum for superannuated tradesmen and decayed householders, with which
was connected a school for a limited number of boys. It was founded upwards of
two centuries since on an old monastic establishment, and retained somewhat of
the conventual air and character. The shadowy line of old men in black mantles
who had passed before me in the hall, and whom I had elevated into magi, turned
out to be the pensioners returning from morning service in the chapel.
John Hallum, the little collector of curiosities, whom I had
made the arch magician, had been for six years a resident of the place, and had
decorated this final nestling-place of his old age with relics and rarities
picked up in the course of his life. According to his own account he had been
somewhat of a traveller; having been once in France, and very near making a
visit to Holland. He regretted not having visited the latter country, 'as then
he might have said he had been there.'He was evidently a traveller of the
simplest kind.
He was aristocratical too in his notions; keeping aloof, as I
found, from the ordinary run of pensioners. His chief associates were a blind
man who spoke Latin and Greek, of both which languages Hallum was profoundly
ignorant; and a broken-down gentleman who had run through a fortune of forty
thousand pounds left him by his father, and ten thousand pounds, the marriage
portion of his wife. Little Hallum seemed to consider it an indubitable sign of
gentle blood as well as of lofty spirit to be able to squander such enormous
sums.
P.S. The picturesque remnant of old times into which I have
thus beguiled the reader is what is called the Charter House, originally the
Chartreuse. It was founded in 1611, on the remains of an ancient convent, by Sir
Thomas Sutton, being one of those noble charities set on foot by individual
munificence, and kept up with the quaintness and sanctity of ancient times
amidst the modern changes and innovations of London. Here eighty broken-down
men, who have seen better days, are provided, in their old age, with food,
clothing, fuel, and a yearly allowance for private expenses. They dine together
as did the monks of old, in the hall which had been the refectory of the
original convent. Attached to the establishment is a school for forty-four boys.
Stow, whose work I have consulted on the subject, speaking of
the obligations of the gray-headed pensioners, says, 'They are not to
intermeddle with any business touching the affairs of the hospital, but to
attend only to the service of God, and take thankfully what is provided for
them, without muttering, murmuring, or grudging. None to wear weapon, long hair,
colored boots, spurs or colored shoes, feathers in their hats, or any
ruffian-like or unseemly apparel, but such as becomes hospital men to wear.'
'And in truth,' adds Stow, 'happy are they that are so taken from the
cares and sorrows of the world, and fixed in so good a place as these old men
are; having nothing to care for, but the good of their souls, to serve God and
to live in brotherly love.'
For the amusement of such as have been interested by the
preceding sketch, taken down from my own observation, and who may wish to know a
little more about the mysteries of London, I subjoin a modicum of local history,
put into my hands by an odd-looking old gentleman in a small brown wig and a
snuff-colored coat, with whom I became acquainted shortly after my visit to the
Charter House. I confess I was a little dubious at first, whether it was not one
of those apocryphal tales often passed off upon inquiring travellers like
myself; and which have brought our general character for veracity into such
unmerited reproach. On making proper inquiries, however, I have received the
most satisfactory assurances of the author's probity; and, indeed, have been
told that he is actually engaged in a full and particular account of the very
interesting region in which he resides; of which the following may be considered
merely as a foretaste.
[gratefully copied from David Skilton's
pages at University of Cardiff
http://www.cf.ac.uk/encap/skilton/fullidx.html]