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Volume 1

[-20-]

GARDENING.-I.

IT is one of the best of the signs of the times that the love of gardening and its practice, in and around our towns, have greatly increased within the last few years. Men of all classes, deeply engaged in business, from the humblest mechanic upwards, show a growing disposition to cultivate what Bacon has termed "the purest of human pleasures," and add to their homes that adornment which may be found in the culture of such a piece of ground as their means will allow them to secure. Much has been written to assist in the gratification of this wholesome taste, but there can be no doubt that people generally have still a great deal to learn as to the principles which should guide them in their gardening amusements, and the direction. in which their time and outlay might be expended to the best advantage. In the present paper we shall offer a few hints as to the general principles which should be kept in view in suburban gardening, especially in small plots of ground, leaving gardening upon a larger scale for future consideration; and we shall follow these hints by details as to the profitable culture of flowers, vegetables, and fruit, by persons whose means and whose opportunity for gardening are alike limited.

CONDITIONS OF TOWN GARDENING.

    It is often supposed that the conditions of soil atmosphere, &c., under which gardening is pursued in the vicinity of towns, render it difficult to meet with a similar measure of success to that found in country gardens. If any proof were wanted of the general ignorance which exists on gardening subjects, it would be afforded by the prevalence of this belief. The fact is that, rightly followed, town gardening may be made as successful and as profitable as gardening in the country; and the reason why the one so often presents an unfavourable contrast to the other is chiefly that suitable subjects are not employed, or, if used, are not tended with proportionate care. What will grow well in the country will often not thrive well in a town, and the attempt to rear the same plants and the same varieties under the two widely different conditions, frequently results in conspicuous failure. But, on the other hand, town growth is peculiarly suited to some classes of plants, which positively flourish better in the more heavily-charged air. The greater quantity of ammonia in a town atmosphere, which is constantly being brought down in large quantities by the rains and absorbed into the ground, is precisely what many vegetables and plants require for their full development; and the town gardener has therefore in this case a constant and natural supply of that which the country farmer is at considerable expense to procure by artificial means.
    Again, the greater warmth which is found in towns as compared with the open country in winter, is eminently favourable to many of the forms of vegetable life. The superior growth and condition often observed in many of our best evergreens in town as compared with the same objects in the country, is an instance of the peculiar suitability of the neighbourhood of town to a certain class of plants; and in other classes it is equally favourable to some varieties, although it may be injurious to others. What these varieties are we shall have occasion to point out under their several headings, when we come to touch upon the different kinds of plants cultivated in our gardens.
    But, while the gardener in town or suburb should bear these facts in mind for his encouragement, he must also remember not only that it is necessary to choose suitable plants for his garden, but to counteract the impurity of a town atmosphere by greater attention to the cleanliness of his plants. The leaves of a plant are its air-vessels, through which impurity will be conveyed to its system if it exists in the surrounding air. A good supply of water in dry and dusty weather is therefore doubly necessary to plants grown in town; but the water should be applied, not to the roots only, as is the general practice, but by gentle sprinkling or washing as in a rainfall, over the entire surface of the plant. At frequent intervals the soot and dust which are sure to settle more or less on the leaves should be entirely washed away, and the plants, if healthy, will immediately repay the attention by their fresh appearance and vigorous growth.
    These two principles of suitable selection of plants and constant attention to cleanliness, are the chief points necessary to be observed to enable the town and suburban gardener to compete successfully with the resident in the country. But now as to other matters which demand his consideration.

THE SOIL, AND HOW TO IMPROVE IT.

    The first is, to study at the outset the character of the soil with which he has to deal. This must be his guide as to the class of plants that he should attempt to grow. Some flourish in light while others thrive in heavy soils, and his choice must be made accordingly; but it is always possible in a small garden, by a little judicious outlay, to do much to alleviate the general character of the soil, whether of the one kind or the other. Stiff clayey soil, for instance, may be lightened by the addition of sand, road-scrapings, and vegetable manure; while too light a soil requires the addition of clay or marl and rich vegetable earth.
    Many suburban gardens, attached to newly-built houses, are formed of meadow land recently broken up; and the soil in these is generally sufficiently rich and fertile to form basis for operations without much trouble in preparation. But in others the ground which the gardener has to cultivate [-21-] is thickly strewn or intermixed with brick and rubble, which must be carefully cleared away before he can do. any good with it. Even this rubbish, however, will be useful in small quantities, as a little of it interspersed in the subsoil will assist in the drainage of the ground. It is a common mistake to remove all stones from the earth or mould. They assist in keeping the ground open and making it porous, preventing it from caking in the heat of summer, or being washed out of the beds on to the paths in heavy showers of rain. Moreover, in hot weather stones are highly useful in preventing the loss of moisture from the plants by evaporation; for, if you remove a stone; from the surface of the mould, you will generally find the earth damp underneath.
    Then, again, the soil may be shallow in depth, and require either that fresh soil should be imported or that the subsoil should be brought up by trenching - an operation which we shall hereafter explain. Lastly, and more commonly still, the fruitfulness of the ground may have been quite exhausted by previous operations, in which case plenty of manure must be dug well into it. Rotted stable manure is the best possible material for this purpose, but many others are easily procured. Road scrapings, matter gathered from ditch bottoms, all kinds of vegetable refuse, with lime, soot, &c., are all useful in their way, according to the character of the soil and its condition. The right use of manures will form the subject of a future chapter.

ASPECT OF THE GROUND.

    Other considerations to which proper regard must be; paid are the aspect and the surroundings of the garden. If the general aspect be south or south-west, you may attempt to grow vines, fruit trees, and many delicate vegetables and flowers with which you would certainly fail if your garden were exposed chiefly to north and easterly winds. It may be that your plot of ground is so situated. that you have two entirely different aspects, one side being fully exposed to the genial influences of the sun and the south-west breezes, and the other lying nearly always in the shade, and meeting only the keener winds. You will find both sides useful for different purposes. On the brighter side, for instance, besides planting your vines and fruit trees, you may sow your seeds in spring, and the rising plants will get warmth and shelter until they are ready for planting out. The other side will be equally valuable - as summer advances; for many of your vegetables and tender plants which would be burnt up by the heat, will here flourish in the shade. You must carefully observe, then, the aspect of the ground, and be guided by this in your planting.

WALLS AND FENCES.

    The next point for consideration is the manner in which the garden is enclosed - whether by fence or wall. Brick walls, as a rule, are much less suited to gardening purposes than open fences. They obstruct the light, and the free passage of air to the plants. The wind and the rain beat forcibly against them, and all things immediately within their shelter suffer in consequence. On the other hand, they have their occasional advantages. A good wall facing the sun is the most suitable spot in the garden for a vine or a plum tree, as it retains and reflects the heat to ripen the fruit. If fruit is not desired, many of the climbing plants, such as the Virginian creeper and the blue passion-flower, common in the southern counties of England, may be used as a covering and ornament. For a damp wail, ivy is the best thing, as it will keep it dry; but in a garden it should be kept cut close, and thinned from time to time, otherwise it will grow unsightly, and form a breeding place for a colony of vermin. A continuous wooden fence presents the disadvantages of a wall without its advantages; therefore choose, if you can, a garden enclosed by an open palisading, which will admit the light freely to the plants, and at the same time break the force of strong currents of wind, while it allows a thorough circulation of air.

LAYING OUT THE GARDEN.

    Now as to the planning out and arrangement of your garden. If you have an open fence, this will require less consideration, and the usual plan of a narrow bed round the sides, with others in the centre, will do very well, supposing you wish to grow flowers chiefly. But if you aim at the culture of vegetables, it is preferable, if the garden is a small one, to have the sides occupied by wider beds, with one pathway running down the centre Thus you get more available space, and can cultivate your vegetables in larger and wider strips, which will be much more convenient for planting, &c., and, at the same time, more favourable to their growth.
    If a small garden is enclosed by a wall, the best arrangement is to have the paths running round the outer sides, leaving the whole of the central space for your plants and flowers. Thus you bring them out of the shade into as much light and air as can find their way into the enclosure, It will be better still if you can raise the bed or beds into which you may divide this central space, above the general level of the ground, so as to give them still more exposure, and at the same time a better drainage. In many cases this may easily be done when you are making a garden, by importing a quantity of broken bricks and similar rubbish, and with this forming a foundation ii for the soil. The expense is trifling, and the trouble will be amply repaid in the saving of labour and the better condition of your plants at a future time.
    In all cases remember to lay out your garden and place your beds so that the plants may be readily got at in all stages of their growth. And when you come to plant, do not fall into the common error of planting so thickly that the subjects choke up each other, and you have a difficulty in attending to one without injury to the rest. The air should be allowed to circulate freely around the stem, and the sun's rays and the rain should be able to reach all the leaves of every single plant, if you wish to have a collection of anything more than weak and sickly vegetation.

SUCCESSION OF PLANTS.

    If you intend to devote your ground to the culture of vegetables, you will not need to be reminded that it is desirable to have a constant succession of plants in the ground, and that gardening will therefore require your attention and afford you amusement throughout the year. But if you think of growing flowers only, avoid, above all things, the modern practice of occupying the ground in the summer months alone by tender and showy plants, geraniums, calceolarias, and the like, and leaving it a barren and desolate space throughout the rest of the year. The smallest piece of ground is capable of affording you a new pleasure in every month from January to December inclusive, as we shall show in detail, in the course of these papers, if you will plant such flowers as follow each other in reaching perfection at the successive seasons of the year.
    So much for the general principles which should be kept in view in setting out. We now come to the practical details of the subject, and shall treat in an early paper on the laying out of the small suburban flower garden.

[-43-]

GARDENING.- II.

THE WINDOW GARDEN.

ALTHOUGH it is not in every man's power to have a garden, in the ordinary sense of the word, it is not difficult to improvise a greenhouse, or to cultivate flowers in the very heart of a town. Window-gardening is within reach of all who have a roof to cover them, and the nearer the sky the operations are carried on the better chance haze the flowers of thriving. A few boxes made of rough boards nailed together, or, indeed, anything that will hold earth and permit drainage, will serve as the ground-work of a window garden; and even in a house where there are only two or three rooms, flowers may be cultivated successfully.
    It is erroneous to imagine that it is unhealthy to have plants in living-rooms. There are, of course, exceptional cases, where the perfume of some particular flower produces sickness or headache, but this only occurs with delicate persons; from sleeping-rooms, however, growing plants ought to be excluded. As a rule, it is a good plan to keep flowers in a living-room during the day, as they absorb the noxious gases in the atmosphere. These they exhale by night; and as they thus poison the air of the room, it is desirable, as far as possible, then to remove them.
    [-44-] We have said that anything capable of containing soil and affording an outlet to moisture will do for flowers to grow in. Ordinary flower-pots are most frequently used, but they are not desirable when economy of space is an object. The great advantage of pots is the facility which they afford for changing the plants from time to time. Zinc boxes are often preferable to clay pots, and they can be had at a very trifling cost, or made at home without much trouble. The bottom must be perforated, and, the box either raised upon small feet of wood or iron, or set upon bricks. A wooden outside case is a very great advantage - it ought to be a trifle larger than the zinc one-the intervening space being filled with moss, or straw, or dried leaves. The object to be gained by this is one every window-gardener must attend to - namely, to prevent the rays of the sun over-heating the earth in which the roots of his plants are lying. Very pretty and ornamental cases are made by planting common ivy between the zinc and wood, and letting it trail over the sides, or upon a little trellis-work, which is easily made by bending and interlacing willow wands, such as basket-makers use, sticking the ends into the earth. I once saw a box of this sort with a very picturesque device. Four wands were fastened at the corners, from which four more met in the centre; round these a small-leaved clematis was trained, and kept so close that it did not interfere with the passage of air or light to the other flowers.
    The pots or cases having thus been secured, the next - thing to do before filling-in the earth will be to attend to the drainage. Be very particular never to let your plants stand in water. Some few plants, it is true - hydrangeas, for example - like to have their roots kept constantly moist, but, as a rule, plants, like men, are better with their feet dry.
    The best way to set about the drainage is to cover the - hole at the bottom of the pots with a piece of a broken pot, so placed as to afford a free passage for the water; over this spread moss or straw, to prevent the earth running down and choking up the drainage. If a case is used, set to work in the same way, only lay the broken pieces a little thicker, and let the moss be also thicker, and well pressed down. A very good drainage may be easily obtained by filling the bottom of the box or pot with a layer of common coal cinders, about an inch in thickness.
    The next thing is to get soil - not always an easy matter in a crowded town, and often entailing many a long walk. In London it is very difficult indeed to get soil, if there is no ground adjoining the dwelling which can be laid under contribution. It will often prove the best economy to procure some from a gardener, which will have the advantage of being specially prepared for the growth of flowers; and the expense of getting such a small quantity as would be required for a window-garden would be very trifling indeed. At any large market where flower roots are sold, the gardeners are glad to part with any of the refuse soil they have brought there round the roots of the plants for a very trifling cost. For a penny or two the amateur window gardener will get enough soil to fill at least two good-sized flower boxes. When people can get out into the country, they will have little difficulty in obtaining leave to gather the earth that they want from the little hillocks of road-scrapings piled at the side of the road, which are full of valuable manure, choosing always those parts where the grass is stiff and sharp. For some plants - namely, those of the fine hair-rooted sorts, such as heaths, &c. - a more fibrous earth, mixed with flints and sands, will be required. This can always be obtained where heath grows. When you have time, and really mean to excel in your flowers, it is an excellent plan to carry home a few sods of the wiry grass we mentioned, and having charred the grass at the fire, lay the sods away in any dark dry corner for a month or two, when it will be ready to powder down with the hand. In some cases it is a good thing to mix sand with it. All soils, however, do not require an extra quantity of sand, and you can determine as to this in a very simple way. Take a little soil in your hand, and work it into a pulp. If it feels gritty, you will require very little sand, perhaps none at all; if it gets simply soft and smooth, add sand accordingly. The manure you mix with the soil must be perfectly rotten, and in a crumbling state. You must use your own judgment, when it is thoroughly mixed with the soil, as to adding sufficient moisture. It is a mistake to use too fine soil, as it is apt to run together and cake; therefore take rough soil in proportion to the size of your pots.
    In transplanting or repotting you must be careful to damp the earth and roots thoroughly, then spread the fingers over the surface, reverse the plant, and tap the pot smartly, the contents will come out unbroken; separate the outer roots a little at the outside, place the plant in the pot, and crumble in the fresh earth round the ball of roots. If the earth is lumpy, and the roots scanty, wash the roots free from soil, keeping them in your hands and manipulating very quietly, for fear of breaking the fibres; then, replacing the plant in the pot, throw in the fresh earth, packing carefully, but lightly, when rapid growth is the object. This last should always be observed; but if you want to stimulate flower bulbs, pack the earth firmly. After transplanting, water equally with a rose, or if you have not such a convenience, take any flat thing - a lid or a piece of wood - and by holding it over the plant, a gentle stream of water falls upon the surface, which will thus be diffused over the foliage as well as the soil.
    For raising seedlings, warmth, air, and comparative darkness are essential. Warmth must range at 45º or 50º to germinate the seed, after which 60º is quite as much as the young plants will bear. Moisture is essential, but should be equal, and never excessive.
    Comparative darkness is desirable, as the seed will sooner germinate, and throw forth its shoot, than when kept in a hardened condition by the influence of a hot sun. Care must, however, be taken to accustom the plants gradually to the light, and that as soon as they begin to show above the surface. The great secret in raising seedlings is never to allow them to get a check.
    It is more difficult to raise seeds in pots than in the [-45-] open air, and we shall therefore give a few practical directions for planting and raising them.
    Our illustrations show designs for hanging-baskets, which may be suspended in the window by a hook driven into the ceiling of the apartment, and, when filled with ferns, creepers, &c., will be found to produce a very elegant effect. Of these Fig. r represents a basket made of rough pieces of rustic wood joined together, while Fig. 2 is of a little more elaborate kind, being composed of twisted wire.

[-58-]

GARDENING.-III.

THE SMALL SUBURBAN GARDEN.

AMONG the many thousands of houses which have been built during the last few years in the neighbourhood of our large towns, few are without some small patch of ground which may be turned to account for flowers. There may not be room for an extensive and showy display, but there is usually enough, either at back or front, to make an ornament to the house, and to afford some degree of amusement and interest to the owner. What to do with these small plots, is the difficulty with many who are without gardening experience, and have little time to acquire it, and consequently we very often find such spaces either very injudiciously filled, or neglected altogether. We shall try to put our readers in the way of making a flower garden, even if the space at their disposal be only a few yards in extent, and this at a very small outlay of either money or labour.
    We must ask our readers to keep in view the hints we gave in our last paper, as to the planning of the small garden, and the preparation and improvement of the soil. Taking these as a starting-point, we will suppose the beginner to have put his piece of ground in order by clearing away rubbish, well turning and breaking up the soil, and importing mould if necessary. For getting the ground ready, if it has ever been used as a garden before, he will find a three-pronged fork far more useful than a spade. It will be more effective in its work, while at the same time it is more easily handled. But, in selecting either spade or fork, do not choose a large or heavy implement. Select a tool that you can wield with ease, for by so doing you will be able to go over far more ground in a given time, than if you chose one which apparently would turn up a great deal more at a stroke, but would entail in its use a degree of fatigue which might soon compel you to desist altogether. People very often fancy that it is necessary to get tools for their work of the same size and weight as those which a regular gardener is in the habit of using, but this is a mistake.
    With such operations as trenching, manuring, and making pits, all of which are most important, and will require a full explanation, it is not our purpose to deal at present. Our readers who may desire information on those subjects will find it as we proceed ; it being our intention to describe all the various gardening operations in their regular order, as they are successively required.
    The ground prepared, it has next to be laid out. There must be the space in which the flowers are to be grown, and - what it is equally important to provide for - the means of getting at the flower-bed or beds from all points, for planting or cultivation. A small garden should have small beds ; but it is a common mistake to make one large bed in such a place, usually in the form of a circle or an oblong square. If the garden is surrounded by an open fencing, the best arrangement is a flower border running round three of its sides, with a walk up the centre.
    [-59-] If there is sufficient width, a middle space may be allotted to flower-beds in addition. But if as we have before remarked, a wall or close fence encloses the plot, make your flower-beds in the centre, and your walks around the sides.
    The arrangement of side beds may be made either in the usual fashion of a straight and uniform line, or with the outer border forming a waved line. The latter plan is decidedly preferable where the available space is not so limited as to cause a trivial effect. Besides being a departure from the tiresome uniformity which ordinarily meets the eye, it affords somewhat better means of tending the flowers, as the indentation of each curve gives a more convenient approach to the plants. But in these and other matters, it is hardly possible to lay down any very definite rules, and the reader must be guided by the suitability of the plan suggested to the space at his disposal.

    As to centre beds, beware, in any case, of the mistake to which we have before alluded. It may be easy enough to plant a large bed, beginning from the middle and working outward ; but when the plants come to grow, it is impossible to tend them properly without risk of injury. When they require trimming or watering, the plants are difficult of access, and you must step upon the bed to accomplish the work. For watering, in town gardens, should be given occasionally to every individual plant; not to its roots alone, but thoroughly over its leaves, to remove from them the dust and other pollutions which choke their pores. And when plants are in flower, it is necessary to remove from them continually all decaying leaves and spent blossoms, so that they may be kept in health, and their period of blooming may be prolonged as far as possible.
    Accordingly, for any central space, let the ground be divided, so that access to all the plants is freely open. If the space will allow the formation of one good-sized bed only, reject the form of either circle or square ; there are others which will be both more pleasing to the sight and more convenient from the gardening point of view. We give two or three diagrams of suitable forms of single beds, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, which will suggest others to our ingenious readers.
    When there is a larger space available, and more than one central bed can be made, the ground may be portioned out in geometrical forms, comprising a circle or an oval, with segments of a circle. Our illustrations, Figs. 4 and 5, suggest figures applicable in this case, always remembering to let the forms chosen satisfy the eye, as well as afford ready access to the plants.
    We have seen, where plans similar to these are adopted, and especially where the garden is formed on what was previously meadow land, the grass left on the spaces around or between the beds. But we must confess we would rather relay turfs at any time than attempt to renovate old and coarse grass, which can never be made to look so well as new; neither do we approve of turf for either edging or lawn in very small gardens. It requires, in summer particularly, incessant clipping and attention to keep it in tolerable order, and the time which should properly be devoted to the plants is thus occupied by their surroundings. What is best for the purpose is a walk of neat gravel.

FORMATION OF GARDEN PATHS.

 In the case of paths, we have heard it stated that perfect drainage is only absolutely essential in a very damp locality, or where there is a rush of water from higher ground near at hand; but we beg to differ in this respect, because we look upon it that "whatever is worth doing is worth doing well," and as it is merely the question of a little extra labour, there is no good reason why so important a matter should be slighted. Our plan is to shape out the paths exactly, and remove the earth in their entire course to the depth of eighteen inches, making, as it were, a clean, square trench; then, having spread stones or rubbish, such as broken crockery, burnt brick clay, or some similar hard material, so as to fill to the surface, we permit it to lie for a time, ramming it down every now and again, until it has become perfectly solid. In a week or more, according to the weather and labour bestowed, it will be sunk to a distance of six inches from the top of the trench. Then place upon it a layer of coarse gravel, from three to four inches thick, and let it be well rammed down, and afterwards rolled as flat as possible; and as soon as you have made the surface to your liking, put another two-inch layer of finer gravel over the whole, roll it as before, and you will have a path that will discharge any amount of wet, and never give way or become rotten or untidy, let the weather be what it may. The gravel for the purpose may be obtained in many localities at a very slight expense, and it is not necessary, although it may be desirable, to have more than the usual bottom of well-beaten earth; but where it is not so easily procured, stones, shingle, rubble, or any similar material, may be beaten into the ground to form a solid path. All garden paths, great or small, should be somewhat higher in the centre than at the sides, to allow water to run off freely, and so prevent their getting into a sloppy and unpleasant condition in wet weather.
    In the choice of material for the borders of beds, tastes differ widely, some preferring a permanent edging of tiles, [-60-] or similar material, while others will have nothing but flowers. But where flowers are used for the purpose, it is necessary to plant very closely, or one of the chief objects of the edging - namely, to keep the mould from being brought down on to the path by rain, &c.- will not be secured. Nothing answers this end better, or looks neater, than good terra-cotta tiles, which may be obtained at the rate of about 15s. the hundred, each tile nine inches in length. Where this edging cannot be procured, rounded stones are sometimes used; and in small gardens, in the vicinity of towns, we have frequently seen borders of oyster-shells, or broken bricks driven into the ground with the corners uppermost.
    Box is the best and most lasting material for a permanent green edging, but it must be planted with great care, to protect it against frost. The soil round the edge of the bed to be formed must be patted down firm and even, or level, and having chopped out the trench in a slanting direction towards the walk, the roots of the box must then be laid against this, and the soil pressed down tight as the trench is being filled up around them. They should be planted in March or September, and clipped in July or August. An edging of grass is objectionable, as we have already remarked, as it requires constant attention to keep it tidy.

THE CULTIVATION OF SMALL GARDENS.

    In the outskirts of London, and, indeed, of most towns, there are to be found numbers of small houses at a moderate rental, with a very small patch of ground at the back, from twenty to thirty yards in length, and six or seven yards wide, so small, in fact, that at first sight it might appear questionable whether it would be really worth the time, trouble, and necessary expense to keep it in a state of cultivation. We hope to be able to show that this would be a mistake. A plot of ground, however small, is far too valuable to be wasted, especially in the suburbs of towns, where garden produce of every sort and description is very expensive; and our present object is to show those of our readers who have small gardens of this kind in what manner they may cultivate them to the best advantage.
    The laying-out of them should be as simple as possible - either with a path down the centre, and beds on each side to the boundary walls, or else with a path running round the garden at about two or three feet from the wall. Of these, the latter is preferable, for several reasons; it is certainly more sightly, and enables the occupier to reach every part of his little territory with facility.
    Of course, if it be merely intended to use the garden as an ornament, it will be easy enough to fill the surrounding beds with flowers, the centre being laid out in grass, with a few small beds of flowers in the centre, as we have already described, but this is an expensive matter, as all the plants will have to be procured fresh year after year, there not being sufficient space to propagate fresh ones, or to keep a stock through the winter for the next summer's planting.
    If it be desired to make the garden remunerative, flowers must be made a secondary consideration, and the principal part of the space should be filled with a judicious selection of vegetables. In favourable situations such a plot would grow the cabbages, lettuces, radishes, endive, onions, spinach, and the various useful herbs necessary for a small family; and if all the ground were kept continually under cultivation, or, in other words, as soon as one crop is done with it were cleared off, and another put in its place, it might be made remunerative.
    In the case of smaller plots of ground, such as belong to or accompany dwellings of a minor description, which might be better understood by the name of yards, if they were only paved, it would likewise pay the tenant to grow useful pot herbs, and such crops as onions, lettuces, radishes, and so forth; and as such there is no reason why even a single foot of soil should lie idle. In a future paper we shall again revert to the subject of gardens on a somewhat larger scale, and endeavour to show how to make them pay.
    Cauliflowers, rhubarb, sea-kale, and even asparagus might be grown. 
    A few of the most useful fruits, such as raspberries, currants, gooseberries - of course, small-sized - might be planted here and there in the garden, currants might be nailed against the wall with advantage - (these latter would prevent that look of bareness about the walls, so detrimental to the appearance of any garden) - and space might also be found here and there for a few strawberries.
    In an ensuing paper we shall give a plan for the laying out of a small villa garden, and shall then proceed with some account of the tool-house - so necessary an adjunct to every garden, however small - and with a brief description of the nature and uses of the more ordinary garden tools.

[-81-]

GARDENING.-IV.

THE WINDOW GARDEN (continued from p.45).

    THE practical result of good gardening is to keep up a show of blossom or ornamental foliage all through the year, to effect which it is necessary to know the seasons when the various plants arrive at perfection. Supposing, therefore, we begin our year in winter, though few flowers are blooming out of doors, yet our window garden may be gay enough, as may be seen from the following list of flowers which bloom at that season, all of which are available for our purpose -Pompon chrysanthemum, tree carnation, Chinese primrose, polyanthus, single garden anemone, mignonette, musk, Neapolitan and Russian violet, wallflower, scarlet geranium, myrtle, camellia, China rose, heaths, daphne.
    Besides these there are many more, but as they require more attention and greater space for growth than most of our readers will be able to spare, we shall leave their names until a future number, and say a few words upon the culture of each of those given in our present list.
    Pompon Crysanthemums are especially suitable for winter window decoration, both on account of their size and variety of colour. Though naturally dwarf ·plants, they will admit of still further dwarfing, by having the points of the shoots "laid" at the end of August. In potting you will require rich light soil give plenty of water afterwards, and when they have done flowering remove them into a yard or spare window and protect them from sharp frosts. You can increase your stock by dividing the roots or suckers, in April or May 
    Tree Carnation.-Make cuttings in spring, re-pot in May, again in September; pinch off the points of the early shoots when you first re-pot, so as to retard the flower-buds. Train upon a wooden frame or up the sides of the window.
    Chinese Primrose - Sow in April or May under a square of glass; pot and re-pot twice, as the plants increase in size. Use sandy, fibrous, rich earth, and see that you have free drainage. When past flowering treat as chrysanthemums, and re-pot for the second season. 
    Polyanthus takes a moderately large pot, rich loamy soil, and should be watered with liquid manure.
    Single Garden Anemone. The roots of these and their bulbous brethren are the better for being taken out of the earth when flowering is over, and stored for the summer. This, however, must not be done until the foliage withers, which shows that Nature is resting. Good plants may be had by putting in the roots early in winter, and keeping the pots in a dark cool place until their leaves appear.
    Mignonette·-To bloom through the winter, select from the box or bed, and re-pot a strong woody plant, train it up a frame of sticks, and water sparingly.
    Musk - grown either from seed, cuttings, or division of the roots. Keep very moist while growing, and dry while the plant is sleeping.
    Violets, Neapolitan and Russian.- Re-pot in May, expose to the air as much as possible, either in a border yard, or window-box. Use well-manured, rich earth watering freely. When the runners appear, nip them back so as to concentrate the strength in the main root. In September re-pot into light loamy good soil, and place in your window. Give all the air you can, and wash the leaves frequently.
    Wallflowers may be made to bloom in winter by cutting back in spring or summer, and from their perfume are always a favourite adjunct of the window garden
    Scarlet Geraniums.-The sweet-scented and oak-leafed are the best for winter growing, and will go on flowering up to February. Of their treatment we shall have occasion to speak under the head of pelargoniums.
    Myrtle.- No foliage is prettier and fresher. The plant will last for years, is easily propagated by cuttings, and although apt to grow too large for its share in a window case, can be kept within bounds by pruning. Sandy loam. mixed with heath and a little silver sand, is the best soil in which to grow myrtles. Re-pot once a year; wash the foliage now and then as soot smuts blister the delicate green leaves.
    Camellias.-Choose the double, which are the best flowering sort, and treat in the same way as the myrtle. A very simple way of striking camellia cuttings is by merely putting a spray (first nipping off the flower-bud) in a small medicine bottle half full of water; let the stalk just enter the water. Hang up the bottle in a light warm place, and in a short time you will have a well-rooted young plant to pot.
    China Roses - Plant in midsummer, or even later , use rich loamy soil, well chained. Strike at any time from cuttings.
    Heaths - being rather capricious in their growth, must be planted in heathy soil well mixed with silver sand and leaf mould, thoroughly drained, and kept free from wet. The pot must be rather small in proportion to the size of the plant. Give plenty of air, and protect carefully against a hard frosts.
    Daphne - although not very ornamental, and apt to straggle in its growth, will nevertheless always find a place a where sweet perfume is acceptable. Heath soil and loans is the most suitable earth. Be careful to keep off frost or even a sudden chill and remove from the window at night. Indeed, we may here observe that this rule should apply to all winter flowers. The temperature falling so suddenly inside the room the dying out of the fire, renders the plants extremely sensitive to the change in the outside atmosphere. If such a misfortune as a frost-bite occurs, remove the plant to a dark place, and let it recover itself; light will blister and decay the surface affected by the frost.
    These flowers will have shed their beauty in January. when you should have your bulbs ready to fill their place. Of these the following will flower in January and February :-Hyacinths, narcissus, jonquils, tulips, crocuses, snowdrops, and scillas. The pretty effect a selection of these will produce when well arranged, is shown in our illustration, Fig. 2.
    The treatment of these several sorts is much alike. Plant in soil mixed with leaf mould and well-rotted manure, early in autumn, say September. Keep in the dark until well rooted, which process is encouraged by having a saucer supplied with water below the pot. When the roots are thoroughly grown, which will generally take place in eight weeks, remove the pots to the light, and the flower and foliage stems will soon show. Great [-82-] care should be taken to have the drainage act quickly, as although the plant should be well supplied with constant moisture, it must not get clogged with wet earth. If the flowers of the hyacinth begin to show before the stein has sprung up far enough to let them develop fully, you can force its growth by twisting a paper funnel and placing it over the plant; flowers always seek the light, so the hyacinth will strain to reach the greatest light as shown by the aperture at the top of the funnel.
    By the time your bulbs have finished flowering there are many pretty spring flowers ready to blossom, so we will suppose you have been preparing a stock of primroses, violets, ranunculus, anemone, Indian pink, forget-me-not, and lily of the valley.
    Of these, Primroses are perhaps the most popular, reminding as they do of country lanes ; they require no further care than good drainage, and to be planted in light soil mixed with leaf mould.
    Violets we have already described. 
    Ranunculus, Anemone.-These are treated in the same manner as the single anemone mentioned before.
    Indian Pink, Forget-me-not.-Sow in November, thin out if too thick, keep cool and dry.
    Lily of the Valley.-Take close plump roots and pack tightly in the pot, shake in a light sandy soil, and place in a saucer constantly half-full of water.
    To follow the early spring show you have a large and very beautiful family of flowers, known as annuals. We scarcely need say that an annual is a plant which is sown, blossoms, goes to seed, and dies in a year.
    Some annuals, it is true, may be made to live on for several years, but this is only by coaxing nature into an unusual course, by picking off the buds, or pruning back. The annuals suitable for our purpose are those not requiring artificial heat, and therefore designated hardy and half-hardy ; of these the following list will suffice to keep up the summer supply:- Mignonette, lobelia, mesembryanthemum, portulaca, balsam, cockscomb, convolvulus, anagallis, calandrinia, nemophila, and mimulus.
    The treatment of these small-seeded annuals is alike. Sow in March or April under a pane of glass, thin out, and transplant when large enough. They will then be ready to fill your window in June, or even the end of May, and continue flowering until the harder wooded perennials are ready. Of these, the favourite sorts suitable to the window are:- Pelargoniums of various sorts, fuchsia, salvia, and calceolaria.
    For low-growing plants to fill up the case, you should keep up a supply of lobelia, musk, and moss. Mignonette never comes amiss for an odd corner, and the common wild mosses, grown in flower-pots, form a lovely relief to the bright colours of the geranium. 
    Pelargoniums, usually known as geraniums, are propagated by cuttings made from March up to the end of August.
    The scarlet geraniums are not quite so suitable for - window gardening as the large florists' geraniums, which grow luxuriantly in the house, and often, too, under the most adverse circumstances. In taking cuttings you should select well-ripened stems, removed as far as possible from the flowering shoot; let them be about three inches in length, and cut across a joint with two or three joints above; the cutting should not be sunk deeply in the soil, an inch is quite deep enough.
    Pelargoniums require forcing every year ; first you must prepare them for the operation by hardening the wood in the open air. When they have been out of doors three or four weeks, cut back the young shoots, giving the plant the form required; this is the fittest opportunity for cuttings, as you then make a better selection, and do not damage the plant.
    After pruning, the plant should be kept pretty dry until the young shoots break away, then they must be re-potted into sandy loam, leaf mould, and fibrous earth. Take care to nip off any decaying roots, water freely, and shade from the glare of sunlight. Plants re-potted in February will flower in June, and you can go on, keeping up a continuous show by merely taking care to re-pot at proper seasons, beginning when the plant is young, or by nipping off the first young shoots, thus obliging the parent stem to send out fresh flower stems.
    Fancy or dwarf geraniums are much grown now, and if nicely pruned form lovely little shrubby plants. These require more water while sprouting, and should have smaller pots in proportion, while the addition of a little heath soil is a great advantage. The best time to make cuttings of any geranium is in March and April, and then you should take the little side shoots, and having struck re-pot them once or even twice during the summer. Before leaving the subject of propagation by cutting, we must impress upon the window gardener that to have a good strong plant to stand the winter he must strike his cuttings not sooner than March or later than June.
    Some of the fancy geraniums bloom almost continually. This is a grand object to achieve in a window garden, so we advise our readers to buy a plant of Gaines' scarlet, Rollisson's purple, or the Prince of Orange, a strong young plant, any one of which may be had for three or four pence at a nursery gardener's ; and here let us observe that the first outlay is the last, as a good stock can always be kept up by propagation, or exchange. Those geraniums which are kept in foliage all the winter require considerable care ; the leaves will grow yellow and drop off if you do not keep them moist, which is best done by syringing, or washing delicately leaf by leaf with a small sponge or bit of flannel, an operation which can be easily done after the day's work, if you are careful to draw the plant-case into the room, and avoid any chance of frost catching the damp leaves. While plants are blooming, care should be taken to keep them moderately moist.
    Fuchsia.- There is nothing more graceful or ornamental than this queen of window plants, and on the whole nothing more simple in its cultivation. Propagated like the pelargoniums from cuttings, the plants require much the same treatment, that is to say, re-potting, pruning, and hardening. One thing, however, the fuchsia is more greedy of, and that is water; you can scarcely water a healthy plant too much, always understanding that the pot has a quick and thorough drainage. Give all the air possible, and when the lovely bells fall and the leaves turn yellow put the plant out of doors to drink in life and vigour from the pure breath of heaven. Take care however, that it does not get frost-bitten; prune and remove into smaller pots for the winter in October cm November, and set it somewhere where neither frost nor excessive damp can reach it.
    In March, when the plant is shooting, you must form it carefully. Slips pulled off close to the old wood in April will strike well, and make neat plants for flowering in autumn ; the parent plant must be re-potted in a slightly larger pot, and kept well watered by syringing the stem, rather than deluging the root.
    The best form in which to train a fuchsia is that shown in Fig.1. The plant throws out more graceful branches, and takes tsp less room in the winter; the stem will go on growing until it attains a considerable thickness. Liquid manure is good for fuchsias while they are preparing to bud, but should not be given after flowering, and the flowers should never be wetted, or they will drop off before their time.
    Salvias.- The scarlet, by proper management, may be contemporary with the chrysanthemum as well as the pelargoniums, and all the precaution necessary is to top your cuttings taken in early summer, and force the plant to go over its preparation for flowering again.

[-113-]

GARDENING.-V.

THE WINDOW GARDEN (continued from p. 81).

FERNS are among the most beautiful of the plants adapted to window culture. The graceful forms of the foliage more than compensate for the absence of flowers when they are used alone ; but when they are employed together with flowering plants, in some such contrivance as the bulb case engraved in our last paper the effect extremely pleasing. They may be placed as a centre with dwarf flowers around, according to their size and  habit of growth. But they are also useful for hanging-baskets, the drooping fronds falling naturally over the sides, and making a handsome base either for the flowers or taller ferns which may be grown in the centre.
    With regard to the baskets used for such purposes as this, we may remind our readers that it is not at all necessary that they should be of a very ornamental character; so long as they are neat in outline, and adapted to the purpose by being sufficiently roomy to admit the soil and the free growth of the plants, it is immaterial what amount of decoration may be displayed upon the sides. As the plants grow, these will be covered and hidden from view, and, therefore, the elaborate and expensive affairs which are sometimes sold for hanging-baskets, are practically worth no more than the plain and unpretending articles which may be purchased for a quarter of the sum. A good example of the hanging-basket has been  included in our previous illustrations. 
    When ferns are employed alone in the basket, it should be fitted with a zinc pan, in which to place the soil, as it will be necessary to keep this constantly moist, and without the pan an unpleasant dripping would be experienced. Ferns for the purpose of indoor culture may be found in abundance in any wood, and in most of our country lanes. They may occasionally be seen growing in chinks of rocks, upon old walls, &c. A good variety might thus be obtained with very little search including the common maidenhair, the hart's tongue, spleenwort, lady fern, and many others. The locality will in many cases decide the examples which may be thus selected for growth as each district has some kinds more or less peculiar to itself. The plants chosen should be small - the smaller the better -  as the more pleasure will be found in watching their gradual development; and when they have grown somewhat too large for the pot or basket, they may be removed to the garden, where they will help to make a pleasing variety among the shrubs and flowering plants. 
    If ferns be procured from a nurseryman or seedsman the hardy native kinds should be chiefly chosen for window gardening, and they may be seen in numbers and variety to suit any individual taste. Many of the other species are apt to require too much heat and moisture to render them desirable subjects, especially for growing in baskets. A few good healthy ferns to start with, will enable you to keep up a constant supply, as they may be propagated with ease by division of roots, and by raising from the spores. The spores are the seeds which are found on the under surface of the frond, and they are most easily collected by cutting off the frond entirely when the spore-cases become brown, and laying it by in a warm place, wrapped in a piece of paper. In a few days the cases will have burst, and the spores may be collected and sown. They may be sown in a pot, which should be half or three parts full of material for drainage, and the soil should be light and fine. A little moss placed underneath the soil will keep it sufficiently moist, and assist the growth. A small piece of window-glass should be put over the pot, and left there until the shoots begin to appear above the surface, when it must be raised occasionally for the admission of air. When the plants have grown large enough to handle, they should be transplanted immediately. 
    Drooping plants, which will flower freely in the basket, may be had in great variety and at very little cost. Among the most popular favourites of this kind are the nasturtium family, tropeolum, canariensis, and other varieties, convolvulus major, honeysuckle, and trailing mesembryanthemum; but there is scarcely any limit to the number of plants that may be grown in this way. The verbenas, heliotropes, petunias, nemophilas, lobelias, mimuluses, &c., may be trained to cover the sides of the hanging-basket, and thus each spring or summer an entire change may be made in the character of the plants so grown.
    We will conclude these papers on the window garden with some hints on the raising and keeping of plants which require something more than the slight degree of attention which is sufficient for many of the kinds described in our last paper. It will be found advantageous to stimulate the growth of certain seeds by artificial means, some of which may be carried into effect simply and inexpensively. Bell glasses are useful, and not expensive. A cracked tumbler will answer the purpose in some cases; and in others, a flower-pot turned upside down. In a cottager's garden we once saw a very neat contrivance: a tray was filled with sawdust, and placed in an east window; on this the pots with their seedlings were placed, and over them was a frame of glass. The sawdust, by being kept wet, moistened the soil, and at the same time generated a sort of bottom heat, which materially helped the seeds to germinate on cold days. The master and inventor of this little forcing establishment sprinkled the sawdust with warm water.
    [-114-] The pots must be filled one-third with cinders for drainage; we then divide the remaining space into three parts-laying first a layer of lumpy, rough soil; then a layer of finer soil, mixed with sand; next, and lastly, finely-powdered soil, containing a greater quantity of sand. 
    The surface soil must be sandy and light, If you cannot obtain heath soil, a little powdered charcoal is a good substitute. 
    Water the pots so as to thoroughly damp the soil, and let them stand for a day to drain in a dry shaded place. 
    Level the surface of the soil and then thinly scatter in the seeds, top-dressing them with a layer of fine soil of a thickness in proportion to the size of the seeds used press the soil down, and lay over the top of the pot a square of window-glass; sometimes, in case the plants are delicate, or the sun scorching, it will be found advisable to shade with a piece of paper.
    For small seeds, such as calceolaria, lobelia, &c., a slight dressing of dry silver-sand is best. Mignonette requires dusty dry earth, lightly laid on. Balsams will take the tenth of an inch, and convolvulus one-fourth, to cover them. It is a very common mistake to plant seeds a great deal too deep.
    For bringing on tender plants, and keeping the less hardy kinds in winter, the miniature greenhouse is a most useful contrivance. Any ingenious person possessed of a few tools may make one for himself. The size and kind of the house must depend upon the number and nature of the plants he wishes to provide for, and it may be either little more than the ordinary garden-frame in character and appearance, or so constructed and fitted as to keep stove-plants in health in a severe season. Our illustrations will afford an idea both of the more simple and the more elaborate contrivances of this kind, and they maybe of very moderate dimensions - in fact, in length from four feet upwards. 
    Fig. 1 represents a small house, which may be placed in the corner of a garden or yard, to act as a receptacle for the window-plants when they have ceased to flower, a training-house for young plants raised from seed or cuttings, and a shelter for fuchsias, calceolarias, verbenas, &c., in the winter.
    It should be erected with the back on the north side of the garden, and the roof sloping towards the south, so as to receive as much as possible of the sun's rays. A good layer of fermenting dung, placed underneath the soil, and removed from time to time, will generate heat; but in fine and temperate weather the roof should be lifted for the admission of the air, which is necessary to keep the plants thoroughly dry and healthy. At night, if the weather be frosty, the structure should be covered with a cloth or mat to prevent radiation.
    Our next illustration represents an arrangement for the supply of heat by artificial means without much expense or trouble, and this also is adapted to a greenhouse on a very small scale. The means used is a hot-air chamber, kept at a certain temperature by means of a spirit-lamp laced under a water-reservoir. A is here the reservoir, and B the opening for the water supply, covered by a lid when the lower portion of the reservoir is full. C may be either a stand for pots, or the soil in which the plants are embedded. D D represents the air chamber surrounding the reservoir, and which moderates the heat before it reaches the plants; while E is the flue through which the heat is allowed to make its escape when it becomes excessive. F is the spirit-lamp, G the movable sash by which the outer air is freely admitted in temperate weather, and H the tap by which the water may be drawn off. Either of these plans is capable of adaptation to any corner of ground that may be available for the purpose.

THE CULTIVATION OF SMALL GARDENS. 
(Continued from p. 60.) 

Gardens must necessarily vary in extent and shape. We will take as an example a plot of ground ninety feet long by forty wide, and although this will afford very fair scope for carrying out a nice arrangement with economy, still simplicity of design will be necessary. We do not advocate intricate plans on a small scale, as they only entail extra labour without an equivalent return. Suppose, then, that the frontage is laid out as a lawn and flower garden, we will proceed to give a few hints to enable our readers to follow out our plan, with such variations as their own inclination may suggest. As a rule, let all walks in this department be curved rather than straight, sharp angles being very objectionable and harsh to the eye. Let the beds and borders be oval, round, or simply curved, rather than angular. If you have room for a grass plot, all well and good; but we do not like to see a lawn too small to be effective. It will be seen by the plan (Fig. 3) that we have provided for one in this instance. On this lawn we would plant a few miniature ornamental trees such, for instance, as copper beech silver birch, red or black thorn; or some of the better kinds of conifers, as cypress, pines, &c. The plots marked 2 may be planted with flowers; 3 is shrubbery.
    For kitchen and fruit garden, we have set apart two-thirds of the entire plot. On the wall a let a peach, nectarine, apricot, or vine be planted, or one of each, if the aspect and situation allow of it. The centre, or main portion of the ground, may be cropped with vegetables; and if you follow a system of rotation in cropping, and have due regard to the application of manure, you cannot fail to make your garden pay. Let herbs occupy the border, b, cover the wall c with plum, cherry, and pear trees. The wall d will do for tomatoes, and the border e for smaller crops, such as lettuces, radishes, and the like.

[-137-]

GARDENING.-VI. 

THE TOOL-HOUSE.

A TOOL-HOUSE of some kind or other must be provided in every garden, or you will invariably find your implements out of order, and a great deal of time will be wasted in looking for them when required for use. Such a structure need only be of the very simplest kind; all you want is to keep out the wet, and if you have no little outhouse convertible for the purpose, you may put up, at a trifling expense, a small lean-to shed against the garden wall. The shed should be fitted up inside with shelves and drawers for stowing away mats, netting, and the like when out of use, as well as for keeping together shreds, nails, flower-sticks, and so forth, all ready for use at a moment's notice. Then again, the walls or sides should be furnished with nails, hooks, pegs, brackets and supports, upon which every tool may be hung, or put away, when not in use. Each tool should be carefully cleaned and returned to this house as soon as it is done with. It is important to keep the shed as dry as possible, for the damp soon rots the mats and nets, and covers iron and..-steel tools with rust, especially knives and scissors. The larger implements, such as the mowing machine, barrow, &c., might stand in the centre of the building. Our illustrations show the best forms of several of the most ordinary garden tools.
    The Spade - This implement is made of three sizes, and it is advisable to have two for a moderate-sized garden ; the largest, or second size, to be used for trenching purposes, and the smallest for digging amongst the flowering plants in crowded borders. There are two kinds of handles, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the second being preferred by many on account of its being more easily wielded.
    The Digging Fork, Fig. 3, as its name implies, is used for turning up the soil, and to be really useful should have four prongs. We generally prefer the fork to the spade where the ground is hard, as the points enter with greater ease, and do the work of pulverising or breaking up the clods with better effect.
    Small Weeding Fork.-This is invaluable for weeding, and lifting bulbous and fibrous roots from one spot to another without injury. A convenient shape is shown in Fig. 10.
    The Rake, Fig. 6, is used for levelling newly turned-up ground, removing, or rather collecting in a body for removal, weeds and rubbish, burying seeds and the like by a series of forward and backward movements. To perform this kind of work, lightness of hand is very essential, as, if clumsily done, an even surface may very soon be made rough. This implement is made of several sizes.
    The Hoe is of great service for clearing away weeds, thinning the various crops, loosening the surface of the soil, drawing drills, earthing up, &c. It should be handled (when weeding or loosening the soil) something like a chopper, bringing the blade towards you in a slanting position at each blow; of this tool there are several forms and sizes. That shown in Fig. 7 is useful for rough weeding and drill- drawing; Fig. 8 for lighter kinds of work, and Fig. 9 for weeding and thinning such small crops as onions, &c.
    The Turf cutter, Fig. 1, is a handy tool, and is used for cutting grass turfs, paring, or rather regulating, the edges of lawns, and other similar worlc. It should be kept sharp all round.
    The Pick-axe, Fig. 11, although not likely to be used to any great extent in a small garden, is nevertheless useful, and necessary for turning gravel walks, and loosening rubbish that has become too hard for removal by any other means.
    The Ladder and Garden Steps.-The former, Fig. 12, will be useful for getting up to tall trees, and climbers on walls, for the purpose of pruning and training; and the latter, Fig. 13, which is a kind of double ladder, will stand without any other support. This will be of great use for pruning, or gathering fruit from standard trees, against which it is undesirable to rear a ladder, for fear of breaking the young shoots, and injuring the bark.
    The Daisy Rake, Fig. 2.-This is a very useful instrument on a small lawn. By drawing it over a lawn studded with daisies the heads or flowers become fixed between the teeth, and thus the lawn can be cleared in a very short time. It may be used also for clearing away dead leaves from the grass.
    The Hammer for the garden should be furnished with claws, such as we have described in our paper on the Domestic Tool Chest (page 24), for the purpose of drawing out old rusty nails, and training trees and plants on walls.
    The Roller is, or should be, called into use for keeping the surface of gravel walks smooth, as well as for levelling grass-plots, both of which operations should be performed in damp and cloudy weather. Iron rollers have quite [-138-] superseded the stone rollers of former days they are more lasting, easier to draw, and much more effective. The size of your roller must be regulated by the width of your walks and grass-plots. It is well to have one as large in circumference as you can conveniently manage. Clean it carefully after using, and put it in the shed, or somewhere under cover. The axle must be kept well oiled, or it will soon wear and work loosely.
    The Watering Pot, of which there are several sizes, is for giving moisture to plants in dry, hot weather, without which they would certainly suffer severely at times, and occasionally perish altogether. The one which we figure above, Fig. 14, will be found as convenient in shape as any.
    The Axe, for felling trees, pointing stakes, and such work, is a necessary item among garden requirements. In buying an axe take care to select one that you are able to use with case, not too heavy, and well balanced. Nothing is so fatiguing as to work with an awkwardly-made axe, which requires all your strength to wield it. The edge must be well steeled, and the handle of ash. It should not be ground to too fine an edge, and should be kept in order with a smooth, hard rubbing-stone.
    The Hand-Barrow, Fig. 15.-The chief use of this is to remove potted plants from place to place. The only drawback is that it requires two to use it ; but no other implement will do so well for the purpose. In our next paper we will describe some more of the most ordinary garden tools.

ROTATION CROPPING OF A SMALL GARDEN.

    In our last article on Gardening (page 114), we gave a plan for laying out a small villa garden. In the present and subsequent papers, we propose to give directions for cropping to the best advantage the eight beds into which the kitchen garden was divided. The numbers refer to the beds in the plan.
    January.- 1. This bed is planted with strawberries and raspberries-the former must be protected from frost, and the stakes of the latter attended to. 2. Manure and dig this compartment as soon as vacant ; half of it may be cropped with potatoes, the remainder to be left for cauliflowers, to be planted in March or April.  3. This plot is laid down with permanent crops of sea-kale, rhubarb, and globe artichokes. All that can be done now us to cover the roots of the artichokes with stable manure. 4, Let this plot be well manured and dug as soon as empty, so that it may be ready for the reception of onions early in March.  5. Early peas may be sown to succeed those sown in November, and such greens and other crops as are of no further use removed to make room for a succession of peas.  6. If celery, Brussels sprouts, or other winter crops, have been grown here, you may clear them off as soon as possible, and manure and dig the ground for the reception of scarlet runner beans.  7. If this plot is empty, as it should he, get it ready for carrots and other roots by trenching the ground to the depth of eighteen inches at least.  8. This is supposed to serve for odds and ends. All you can do is to manure and trench such portions as become vacant, leaving the surface to be penetrated by frost.
    February.  1. Remove covering from strawberries, and fasten raspberries to their stakes.  2. If potatoes were planted here last month, no particular attention will be required, save getting in readiness the space left for cauliflowers.   3. Sea-kale and rhubarb for succession should be covered with leaves or dung.   4. Give this a slight forking over on a frosty day. Radishes may be sown with the onions in March.   5. Another sowing of peas may be made for succession. Remove spent broccoli, and dig the ground at once.  6. Continue to manure and dig the ground as it becomes vacant, for it will be required for dwarf and runner beans.  7. Expose the surface of the ground to frost as much as possible by digging and leaving it in rough trenches, and sow a row or two of broad beans.  8. Take up winter turnips, and have the ground manured and trenched for the reception of future crops.
    March.-. 1. If the covering was not removed from strawberries last month, remove it at once, and stir the soil between the rows. Prune raspberries left untouched last month, and stir the soil between them, but not deep enough to injure the roots.   2. Plant cauliflowers here. Potatoes planted last month will make their appearance above ground, and will require protection from frost; any portion of this plot that has become vacant by the removal of any winter crop, should be removed and dug up at once.  3. Make a fresh plantation of globe artichokes, and keep up a succession of rhubarb and sea-kale.  4. Sow onions here, either broadcast or in rows; if the former method is adopted, radishes may be sown with them.  5. Sow peas, and get any vacant ground cleared, manured, and trenched for the reception of future crops. Round-leaved spinach may be sown between the rows of peas.  6. Very little can be done with this plot as yet, it being too early for dwarf and runner beans, but it must be well weeded, and the surface of the soil occasionally stirred.  7. If a few broad beans were sown here last month you may get the remainder of the plot ready for the reception of a crop of carrots, with parsnips if you wish them.  8. This plot being intended for growing various things not mentioned above, it may be got into order for whatever things the cultivator may have occasion to grow hereafter.
    April.- . 1. As this contains the strawberries and raspberries only, there will be little to do save forking over the ground between the rows of the former, and pruning and tying up the latter, if not already done.  2. A portion of this may be planted with cauliflowers, if not done last month. Potatoes may occupy another portion, and, if desirable, the remaining ground filled up with later cauliflowers.  3. This being laid down with permanent crops, will require, during the present month. little or no care, save putting the ground in order for the season.  4. Presuming that you sowed radishes and onions here last month, there will be nothing to do but to stir the soil between the young plants with a hoe.  5. Two lots of peas may be sown at different periods this month. Clear the ground of green stuff that is done with, and manure and dig the vacant space. Stick the early sown peas as they advance in growth.  6. This plot, which has been kept vacant may be sown with dwarf and runner beans, at the commencement, and against the end of the month.  7. Early horn and long Surrey carrots may be sown early in the month, and beet at the end of it. Thin out the parsnips as soon as they are large enough to handle. Stir the surface between advancing beans and sow more for a second crop towards the end of the month.  8. Turnips may be sown on a portion of this plot, about the second week in the month, and any other crop that is likely to be required may be sown or planted in the remaining space.
    May.- 1. Attention will be required here, for if the season proves dry it will be necessary to water the strawberry plants liberally. The raspberries will require little or no attention for the present.  2. Earth up the potatoes towards the end of the month, and keep down weeds. Stir the soil between the first planted cauliflowers, and put out a row or two more in the space reserved for a second lot.  3. Give the sea-kale beds a good dressing, and the ground between the plants a slight digging or forking over.  4. Keep onions clear of weeds, and draw radishes as soon as possible, to give the onions ample room to grow.  5. Place stakes to the different crops of peas as they seem to need it, and sow a [-139-] row or two of a later sort for succession, and reserve a portion of the plot for another and final solving in June.  6. Should the crop of dwarf kidney beans have failed, as is quite possible, make another sowing directly, and continue to do so as long as you have room for the same, bearing in mind that they will require protection when first they make their appearance, as they are very tender. Scarlet runners may be sown the first week in the month.  7. The carrots sown here will require thinning as soon as large enough to handle. Another solving of broad beans may be made, and the early sown ones earthed up. Stir the soil between the growing rows of beet.  8. The first sowing of turnips may be preserved from frost by covering with a layer of clean straw or mat. Remove the remnants of greens and broccoli, and manure and dig the ground afterwards. A few lettuces may be planted or perhaps a row of celery, and for this purpose a spare corner should be reserved. 
    June.-  1. Dry litter should be laid down between the strawberry rows to keep the fruit from the ground, and it will be necessary to water the plants occasionally in dry weather.  2. By the second week in the month this plot will be quite full, the second row or two of cauliflowers having been planted; but as the potatoes will be almost ready for taking up, there will soon be room for something else. As soon as the potatoes are removed from the ground, add a little dung if necessary, and turn up the ground that it may be fit to receive the next crop.  3. Very little attention need be paid to sea-kale, except to prevent the plants from producing too much flower and seed. 4. Thin the onions in this bed by means of a small hoe, if you want fine bulbs; taking care, however, to leave no footmarks upon the ground. Celery plants ready for planting, should be got out at once on a vacant portion of this plot: a foot wide and ten inches deep will be sufficient for the drills, at the bottom of which a little well-rotted manure should be put previous to planting.  5. Make the final sowing of peas about the middle of the month, and place sticks to such advancing crops as may require support.  6. Dwarf kidney beans may be sown once or twice more this month, and any imperfections in the rows may be made good by transplanting from places where they have come up too thick and are choking each other. Stick scarlet runners as they advance in growth, and keep weeds down by frequent hoeing.  7. Thin the carrots in this compartment, and also the turnips as soon as large enough, and sow more for succession. Put in another crop of broad beans, and earth imp the previous sowing.  8. Let your celery trenches be prepared for the reception of the plants, and on the top of the ridge between the trenches, lettuces may be planted with advantage, as they will come up in time to allow of the crop being earthed up. The portion of this plot that has been occupied with winter broccoli should, as soon as cleared of the stumps, be well manured and trenched.
    In our next paper we propose to continue these remarks upon rotation cropping, and when they are concluded, we shall proceed to give detailed information on the three great departments of gardening-the cultivation of vegetables, fruits, and flowers.

[-148-]

GARDENING.-VII.

THE TOOL-HOUSE (continued from p. 138).

BEFORE finishing our description of the contents of the tool-house, the following list of the prices of tools may be found useful to some of our readers:

    Mowing machines have become much cheaper of late years, and one which will do all the work of a small garden can now be bought for the sum above stated. It should be well oiled, and when necessary can be sharpened by revolving the opposite way with emery and oil.
    Pruning Scissors will be found handier than the knife at times and for this reason we would include them in our catalogue of garden requisites. They are especially useful for trimming small currant and gooseberry bushes.
    The Hand-saw and Tenon-saw we have already described (p.43); the former will be found useful in the garden for the removal of such branches as are too thick for the knife to separate ; the latter is frequently needed in grafting where the stock is of too tough a nature, or of too large a size to admit of the use of the pruning-knife.
    The Scythe-stone, or Rubber. - This is essential for keeping up a good edge to the blade of the scythe, which necessarily gets dulled by use, or injured by coming in contact with stones, &c., and requires sharpening. Most people know the old kind of stone or rubber used by mowers, which is of a very rough texture; but there is now a better kind for garden purposes, that puts on a smoother edge, and consequently enables the mower to do his work cleaner and quicker. The above is usually carried in a kind of leather satchel or sling, supported by a strap over the shoulder. The rubber must never be used when wet, and must be handled gently, as it is very brittle. It is a good plan to wash it carefully when you have done with it, but you must remember to dry it before using.
    Shears (Fig. 8), which are neither more nor less than a large pair of scissors with long wooden handles in place of loops for the fingers, will be found of great service for clipping the borders of grass, box edgings, quick, and other hedges.
    The Dutch Hoe (Fig. I) is very useful for cutting up, or rather under-cutting weeds, and at the same time loosening the surface of the soil. This implement should, however, be pushed before you at the depth of from one to two inches, so that it may cut up any weeds. Fig. 2 shows a drill hoe used for making shallow trenches for small seeds.
    [-149-] The Pruning Knife, as its name indicates, is used for the purpose of keeping fruit and other trees and shrubs in order by cutting back the shoots at the proper time. A good form of pruning-knife is shown in Fig. 10.
    The Dibbler or Dibble, of which there are two kinds (Figs. 5 and 6), is used for various things; the small one for planting stocks, cabbages, lettuces; and the large one, with a projecting piece of iron for the foot to rest on, for dibbling in potatoes. Either of these may, if necessary, be made out of an old spade-handle, with a little contrivance, although it is better that you have such things properly shod with iron, as they do the work cleaner and with greater expedition.
    The Pitchfork (Fig. 3) is an exceedingly handy implement in a garden, as it is often required for turning over manure, making up hot-beds, shaking out dry litter, and distributing such dressing or manure as is spread over the ground previous to its being dug.
    The Budding Knife is of small dimensions, and is used in preparing the bud and stock for budding. It has a bone or ivory handle tapering towards the end, which is used for raising the bark so that the bud may be inserted easily. There are blades of several shapes, but the one represented in Fig. 9 is the best for ordinary work.
    The Trowel (Fig. 4) is a tool no gardener should be without, as it is most useful for the removal of plants from one spot to another, where it is necessary to retain a ball of earth to their roots,, and whenever the spade could not conveniently be used. 
    Baskets (Fig. 7).-These will be found useful for collecting weeds, vegetable refuse, roots, &c., in small quantities, for removal from one place to another in lieu of the barrow. The size and number of these entirely depend upon circumstance

ROTATION CROPPING OF A SMALL GARDEN.

(Continued from p. 139.)

    July - 1. As raspberries and strawberries are the only occupants of this department, little care will be needed, with the exception of removing suckers of the former and runners of the latter, in the event of their not being required - and they will not be unless the family is particularly partial to them, at the expense of other things. If, however, a few plants are wanted, some of the strongest runners may be permitted to ramble at will over the ground, on the outside row, and these should be either pegged down into pots, or into the ground. 2. As soon as the potatoes in this quarter have been taken up, the ground should be dug over, and some early turnips sown for a winter supply. We prefer to sow a small quantity often, rather than wait till the entire spot becomes vacant. As it is almost too late to plant cauliflowers, a portion of the ground may be reserved for early or autumn broccoli.  3. Liquid manure supplied to sea-kale now will prove far more beneficial than dung heaped upon their crowns in winter time. Rhubarb will require no further care than cutting away all but one of the flower stems, and this one may be considerably reduced. If, however, no seed is required, it may be cut down close towards the end of the month. Use the hoe continually for the purpose of keeping weeds under, and the soil in a healthy condition.  4. The hoe may be used between onions, provided you can use it without injuring the leaves, but not otherwise, as this crop will or should have had a final thinning last month. If perchance a row or two of celery was planted in this department last month, it will he necessary to earth up the same; but a dry day must be chosen for the work. Any vacant ground should have a slight raking over, just to make it look neat until such time as you can plant it. 5. Place sticks to such peas as require support, and see to the immediate removal of those past bearing, taking care not to injure broccoli and other things planted between them. 6. Very little attention will be required here, with the exception of keeping the kidney-beans clear of weeds, and seeing that high winds do not injure either the dwarf or runner varieties, for it is alike detrimental to both. 7. There is just a chance that carrots may prove a failure, and if so, as it will be too late to sow again, the best plan will be to fill up the gaps in the beds with lettuces; or a sowing of turnips may be made to come in in the autumn; but do not fill the ground with anything that is likely to occupy it in the winter, as such an arrangement would interfere with your future plans. Such broad beans as are making rapid progress must have their tops nipped off and the soil should be afterwards stirred between them, and, indeed, between every other crop. 8. This compartment being principally intended for the growth of celery, and the time having arrived for planting the general or main crop, a few words on its management will doubtless be acceptable. Here we will only say that, to ensure good and fine sticks, abundance of room will be necessary. Single and shallow trenches suit best for a small supply. but for a larger quantity broad ones should be made. Fuller directions on the growth of celery will be given as our work proceeds. As endive and other odds and ends will partly occupy this plot, the requisite attention must be paid to each at the right time.