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Volume 1

[-33-]

CHILDREN'S DRESS.- I.

CLOTHING FOR INFANTS. 

ALMOST any amount of money may be spent on the decoration of the various articles of an infant's clothing. Embroidery and lace are both lavishly used, and the finest materials are purchased by many mothers who are rich enough to pay for their fancies in this respect. We would advise the young mother to avoid needless display, even though able to afford it. All purchases should be made at a good shop, where the articles sold may be relied on. All ostentation is vulgar, besides which babies are sufficiently attractive to need little adornment; and there is more elegance in simplicity.

    The clothing absolutely necessary for a baby may be· supplied at a small cost if the mother be able to make up the materials at home, and so save the cost of the making. 
    Materials.-Purchase an easy-fitting thimble of steel, lined with silver; it is well worth what it will cost. Have two good pairs of scissors - one pair of large ones, worth about three shillings, and a fine embroidery pair that will cost 1s. 6d. It is always a good plan to have an old or common pair kept where any one can have free access to them, because this saves good scissors. Be very careful to have good needles and cotton; sewing-machine cotton is the best made. Always have a lead pencil - an HB is the most useful - and a penknife in the work-basket. One of those covered baskets that stand on legs is the most useful to hold work, and costs four or five shillings. A large work-basket to hold materials is also needed. Procure fine cotton [-34-] and fine needles for babies' work; needles Nos. 8 and 9 should be used, and the best cotton, in about three sizes. An emery cushion is also useful. Do not commence work without a good leaden pin-cushion, a yard measure, and plenty of pins. If you employ a machine, the cotton used will be finer than that quoted, which is suitable for hand-work.
    We are aware that there exists amongst some ladies an unfounded prejudice against the use of the machine for under-clothing, especially for that of babies. But exquisite work can be done with the better class of machines; quite suitable for the work in question, on account of the very fine cotton used in them.
    We wil1 commence with a list of articles required for the baby's outfit:-

    To Cut and Make a Baby's Chemise.-Half a dozen little chemises are the first requisites for an infant's toilette, to make which it will be necessary to purchase a yard and three-quarters of lawn at 1s. 6d. a yard; the lawn should measure twenty-eight inches wide. Cut this up in six lengths of ten inches each. To cut the material accurately, measure ten inches on each side with a yard measure, put a pin at each place, fold the stuff across, and crease it quite flat ; pin it to a leaden pin-cushion. Take one of the ten-inch strips to make the first chemise, and fold it in three -see Fig. 1. The folds C C should be cut for the arm-holes, and at A A and B B shorter cuttings should be made for the shoulder-straps. Fig. 2 shows the flaps of the back and front turned down. The corners B and C should be put together-run and felled-preparatory to the insertion of the sleeve. Fig. 3 represents merely an oblong strip. When the corner, marked 2, is turned down, and the other end, marked 1, is brought round and sewed to it, a gusset is formed. The latter should not be cut out in the piece when making any chemise, as it never wears well ; and to make a separate gusset is to lose much time without any advantage. The corners between the sleeves and flaps of the garment should be button-holed. Next turn a very fine hem down for the edge of the sleeves; afterwards hem the bottom of the little garment rather deeper. The selvage for the sides may be left. The points of the sleeves are armed with straps, and fine linen buttons are placed midway on the shoulders. These are used when the child is older, to button down the flannel straps, and need not be added till required.
    Those who can afford it use French cambric for babies' chemises, and should then edge the sleeves with very narrow Valenciennes lace; while those who use lawn may trim them with Cash's frilling, which is inexpensive.
    The Night Flannel- Next to the chemise a flannel is worn. This should be Saxony, and measure not less than forty or forty-four inches wide. It may be purchased for 1s. 6d. a yard, unless a higher-priced one be desired. Two yards must be purchased to make two flannels. Mark the centre of the flannel, and form a box-plait there an inch and a half wide, or two inches in the wider flannel (the forty-four inch). Make two other similar plaits on each 6ide of this-five plaits in all-with fully an inch of space between each, and about four inches over at each end. Tack these plaits down for seven inches to form a body, and let the rest hang free; cut out two half-circlets between the two outer plaits each side, to form the arm-hole, as shown in Fig.4. at M and M. Run the plaits very neatly down each side, and stitch them across at the ends marked by the letter N. Stitch a washable binding all round the flannel, and add two tapes for, shoulder-straps, marked O, and tapes each side at the  places marked P, to tie the flannel, which folds across the baby. 
    For a Day Flannel-Purchase two yards more of better quality flannel, say 2s. 6d. or 3s. per yard. Make as before directed. Some persons give as much as 4s. or 5s. a yard for perfectly white flannel; bind it with white linen-binding, and tie it down the front with sarcenet bows. The plaits are either quilted across with white or coloured silk, or sewn down with chain-stitch. Fig. 5 represents parts of two folds of a baby's flannel, the one quilted, the other chain-stitched. Chain-stitches are formed by leaving the loop of the first thread above the work, and entering the needle of the second stitch through it, as shown in Fig. 6.
    The First Gowns.- These are made half high, and with long sleeves. Buy twelve yards of fine dimity, almost like piqué, and make six of them. Cut off two lengths of a yard each, and run and fell them together till they look like a sack with two seams, Fig. 7. Leave these seams open (U U, Fig. 7) for the sleeves to be put in; slope off pieces at V V, as shown in the illustration, to form the shoulders, which should measure about two inches long. Run and fell these together. Either merely hem the top and run a string in it, or gather it into a band, which must, however, also have a string in it to draw it close to the baby's little neck. Gather in the skirt from X to X to form a waist. The piece gathered should be fifteen inches long, and brought into a band one inch deep and five long, as shown in Fig. 8, at Q. One end at each side of this band (R R) ties round the back of the waist, and draws the loose part of the robe close to the baby's figure. A placket hole is made five inches long, down the back of the body. The robe is not really open at the back; it is only drawn like this in the diagram to show the looseness of the back, and how far the waist gathers extend. The seams come at the sides. The sleeve is of the coat shape, cut like Fig. 9; it is run and felled together, the seam being placed downwards at Y in Fig. 7. The Z marked in the diagram of the sleeve, Fig. 9, shows how the top is rounded to sew it into the arm-hole. It is run and felled in, and eased a little at the top; the arm-hole should not be quite so large as the sleeve. The baby's sleeve is eight inches long, such across the top before it is joined, and five at the cuff. The measurements are all given allowing for turnings, hems, &c.
    A pretty First Frock (Fig. 10) is made of fine cambric muslin ; three rows of insertion embroidery, edged each side by narrow pointed work, trim the body. The cuffs and epaulettes are enriched to correspond, and the necks and waistband are also of fancy work. The skirt is embellished with a number of narrow tucks, and edged with pointed embroidery.
    A Handsome Day Flannel.-Fig. 11 gives a design, for a handsome day flannel. It is made of very fine white Saxony. The body plaits are machine-quilted, with white crochet-silk. The skirt has a deep hem, also quilted. It is bound with broad white ribbon, and tied with large bows. 
    In our next article we propose giving another pattern for a baby's flannel, a baby's house wrapper, a baby's cloak, cape, and hood, with ample directions for cutting them out and making them up, as in the case of the garments described in the present paper.

[-88-]

CHILDREN'S DRESS.-II.

CLOTHING FOR INFANTS (continued from p. 34).

CHANGES in fashion affect the clothing of infants less often than the toilettes of the more mature. The greatest alteration that has been made for some time regards the length of the little ones' dress. Robes that once reached absurd proportions are curtailed to the length of a yard and the yard may even include the bodice. Of course, the petticoats and flannels are all shorter in proportion. Another way of making the baby's flannel is shown in  Fig. 18, which represents the back of the little garment, and Fig. 16, which displays the front. The back has either three or four box-plaits in one with the back breadth of the skirt. The front of the bodice is made of two plain pieces wide enough to wrap over one another, and joined by a band (which also goes over the plaits behind) to the skirt in front, which wraps over and ties on one side. The dotted line L shows how far the body of the flannel folds over on the under side. M shows where the under skirt ends, and is buttoned to the upper one. The third way of making a flannel, very suitable for summer, is given in Fig. 23. A strip of flannel six inches deep and fourteen inches long, from G to G, is cut away to points each side, H and H. This is bound all round. The skirt is plaited and set on from I to I. There are semi- circles for armholes cut, and tape straps added at K and K. The dotted lines show the portions meant for the back, and to wrap over in front. The points are folded round the baby's body, and tied by strings sewn on at H and H.
    Another necessary item will be 24 yards of good linen diaper, a yard wide. It will cost about one shilling and sixpence a yard. Cut 24 squares from this, hem them round, and fold four times. For a pilch to wear over the squares, take a square of Welsh flannel, fold it shawl-shape, and cut it in half. Take off the two shawl ends,  marked by the dotted lines N and N in Fig. 19, and gather it into a band, as in Fig. 15, about fifteen inches long. Button it at R and R, and add a loop at O also to fasten on to the buttons at R. Macintosh for extra-secure pilches can be bought by the yard.
    The House Cloak or Flannel Shawl.- A yard of flannel twenty-seven or twenty-eight inches wide will be required. This must be shaped to an exact square of twenty-eight inches. To cut a square of anything always fold your material across, as shown in Fig. 12, bringing the material where it is cut across equally to the selvage at B. The fold comes at the dotted line C C, and when folded the material resembles Fig. 14. Cut it off at the dotted line D D D, you then have a square exact. To cut the baby's wrapper, keep your square folded, as shown in Fig. 14, and cut it out as shown in the plain line in Fig. 25, the dotted line indicating the folded square. To ornament the flannel, work it all round the edge in scallops with blue or scarlet crochet silk, and work a dot in every scallop. To scallop the edge cut a card out, like Fig. 26, cutting holes for the rounds. This can be done by tracing the outline on the card first. Then with a red chalk pencil mark the scallops and holes all along the edge of the flannel. Run them over with cotton, afterwards button-hole the edge in silk, and work the large dots in satin stitch. On the wrong side of the flannel square, at the dotted line marked s, in Fig. 25, put on a ribbon case, and run in a string to draw the hood round the baby's neck. This flannel square is worn over the dress in the house during the month; and afterwards when the child is carried from room to room. 
    The common head flannels should be rather more than a yard square.
    The Baby's Cloak.-It has been very usual lately, and more fashionable, to drape a baby in a simple deep circular cape out of doors, in preference to the old cloak with its cape. There is no essential difference in the pattern needed. The cape is merely a cloak without its second cape, and with the trimming differently arranged. If a young mother have not a pattern for the purpose she can easily make one herself. In the first place, let her take one or two old newspapers, and tack three of them together neatly with needle and thread, as shown in Fig. 17. The centre of these united papers must be ascertained by doubling them. Then spread them out upon a table that has a cloth upon it. Pin the end of a yard measure securely to the centre, through the cloth at the top of the paper. Then take hold of it where the figures thirty-six denote the yard, and move it from end to end of the paper, holding a pencil in the same hand to mark its movements. The yard measure is pinned at A in Fig. 24, and moves from B to G at the other end, the thirty-six inches, or yard, marked on the tape, and then again from B to C. The line in the centre, it will be observed, is exactly straight, being rendered so by folding the paper after the circular line is made. Having marked the half circle thus described with a pencil, allow it at the line C and G, each side of the centre B, five inches shorter, according to the dotted line D D. Pencil this nicely off as shown in the illustration. Now [-89-] cut out the pattern with scissors ; fold it together, and give the corners the little slope or curve marked at E and E.
    When a cloak is to be made it is cut just the same, but a cape is formed two-thirds of the size, at the dotted line marked F, and a collar at that marked a. For a baby's circular cape a collar is added, but the trimming is put on the neck like a collar, and of the same shape. Both cloaks should measure in the longest part, that is, from the neck to the edge in the centre of the back, not more than one yard ; a circular cape rather less. Having obtained an accurate pattern it is easy to cut the material. Two yards of cashmere at 3s. 6d. or 4s. a yard is required. White is the most esteemed, and scarlet the most durable, of colours. Cashmere washes well, and can be dyed so as to look like new. A very pretty circular cape can be made of white cashmere, trimmed with bright, light blue llama. A design for this is given in Fig. 21. The llama is put on broadly ; it must be cut to the curved shape of the cloak, and joined in breadths ; it encircles the lower edge, and is rounded off towards the front. Up the front several handsome blue ribbon bows are sewn on, and the cloaks secured beneath them by hooks and eyes. The llama should be tacked on flat after the breadths are joined, and very fine cotton should be used for the purpose. Turn in the tipper edge, and sew it down with a narrow white silk braid. A handsome cloak may be lined throughout with white sarcenet; but it is very general, and far less costly, to use fine white cambric for the purpose. Having tacked on the blue trimming, and neatly run it into the braid at the edge, put the lining upon the cloak face to face, and tack it round, leaving the outside of both visible. Run it nicely together at the edge, and then turn it inside out, so that the right side of the cloak is outwards. A trimming, like a collar, of the blue has, of course, been placed on the cape as well as the broad edge. Add the bows, and the cloak is complete. It is very easily made. The trimming may be of silk instead of llama, and quilted instead of plain; no braid is then needed.
    In cutting the newspaper pattern, we should call the reader's attention to the fact that it must be doubled after cutting to see that both sides are alike. indeed, it will be as well to cut it in half from A to B at the dotted line down the centre. The cashmere is cut in two pieces, the seam coming down the back of the cloak, unless it be wide enough to get the whole cloak without a seam. Pin the pattern thoroughly on the material; double before cutting. 
    To make a cloak, as before named, the same directions must be followed, and the cape and collar cut on a similar plan, but smaller. The cloak is trimmed down the front, as shown in Fig. 20, the trimming becoming wider, and rounded off at the end. The cape is ornamented all round ,and so is the collar. The cloak may be of white, grey, scarlet, crimson, or blue cashmere, and the trimming of sarcenet, either white or of the same colour as the cloak, lined with a little wadding, and quilted. The wadding is tacked to the silk, and the quilting done, the silk being shaped and the breadths joined before it is applied to the cloak. In using a sewing-machine keep the wadding uppermost. 
    Fig. 22 offers a pretty design for a baby's cloak; the edges scalloped and pointed, and trimmed with a small tassel at every point. 
    it is decidedly best to buy the baby's hood. The cap worn under the hood is a caul with a full lace edge. The lace must be removed to wash it, and requilted each time. A boy's hood is distinguished from a girl's by a rosette. A hood as soft as possible is a better covering for a baby than any fancy kind of hat, however pretty it may look. The stiffness of a hat is unsuited to the tender softness of a baby's head; neither is it any protection to the child. Caps are only worn under hoods, and not indoors.
    In Fig. 21, under the cloak, a pretty design is given for a handsome frock. It is made with two flounces and [-90-] work between; one row over the first flounce, and two over the second. The flounces may be worked, or of plain fine muslin edged with work or lace. Fig. 13 is a design for a body to wear with this skirt. The braces match the flounces. The stomacher is embroidered; and bows tie the shoulders.
    A few words on the art of embroidering cashmere, French merino, or flannel, will doubtless be found most useful to many young mothers. I have spoken of tracing the scallops for the edges with a red chalk-pencil ; this, however, is only suited to an unskilled worker. There are two methods of tracing-pouncing, and the use of carbonised paper. The last is the easiest way; but care must be taken, as the black of the paper may soil the material. It should be well rubbed with bread before use, and the effect tried on something first. Draw the design on paper ; between it and the material to be worked place the black tracing-paper, carefully pinning them in position together; then, with a knitting-needle or very hard lead-pencil, follow out the design, as if sketching it afresh, line by line. Carbonised tracing- paper can be obtained in sheets of any stationer who keeps drawing materials ; and, if preferred, blue, red, green, or white tracing-paper can be substituted for the black. Patterns used for open-work embroidery can be adapted as borders, and worked in satin-stitch, the edges being button-holed. Floss, or ordinary embroidery silk is used for cashmere, but wool, or what is called linen-floss, is better for flannel than silk, which sometimes turns yellow when washed.

[-116-]

CHILDREN'S DRESS.-III.

CLOTHING FOR INFANTS (continued from p. 90).

WE promised in our last paper to lay before our readers practical directions for making babies' long frocks and petticoats. These are not worn so long in the skirt as they were formerly. For full-dress toilette far a baby the skirt of the robe, however, is still very long; and as the body, including the band, is two and a half inches deeper than the old-fashioned-ones, the difference in the length is not very great. The length of the skirt of a robe thirty or forty years ago was forty inches, and the body three inches. A full-dress robe is now made thirty-six inches long in the skirt, and five and a half in the body. Very pretty robes may be bought ready-made for about 14s. or 15s. They should be made of fine Nainsook, at about 2s. 6d. or 3s. a yard ; according to the width. It will be the best plan for the young mother to commence by making the petticoats before she attempts the frocks, by which arrangement she will get her hand accustomed to the work.
    Four white petticoats, and four plain frocks, with three handsomer for best, will be sufficient; but where means allow of frequent change double the number can be made and the every-day frocks embroidered also. For the petticoats, a fine, thin, soft long-cloth should be chosen, and will cost 9d. or a 1s. a yard. Eleven yards will be sufficient for petticoats ; a very wide material is not needed. Procure also two pieces of tape, one a quarter of  an inch, the other three-eighths of an inch wide. Undressed long-cloth should be procured. It can always be had by inquiring for it at a really good shop. The thrifty housewife will find that she saves ten or twenty per cent. by going to a large, well-established shop, and the trouble and fatigue of a long walk, or the expense of an omnibus will be amply repaid. When a lady has to go a distance to a shop she should try and make all the purchases needed at once, which may easily be done by keeping a little memorandum-book, and jotting down from time to time the articles required. The petticoat may be made in two ways. First, the simplest - cut off nine breadths, of thirty-four inches each. Split three of these in half lengthways, to make half breadths. Each skirt consists of a breadth and a half.
    If the material be undressed, soaking alone is necessary. Rubbing between the hands, or soaping the work with dry soap, is sometimes sufficient preparation if dressed. It should always be soaped for the sewing-machine. Any dress in the material clogs the teeth of the feeder and impedes the motion. If the work be soaked it should be ironed whilst damp, and made very smooth, otherwise it is a not easy to work evenly upon it. Where the selvedges come the breadth and half-breadth of the skirt need only be run together neatly. The other seam must be run and felled.
    Make a cut down the centre of the half-breadth, seven [-117-] and a half inches long, as shown at C in Fig. 27, and hem it round with the narrowest hem that can be turned down, neatly button-hole stitching the angle A, Fig. 34, and then making a loop across, shown at B B B. In case any of our readers are not acquainted with the correct mode of making a loop, we will describe it in detail with the help of the diagram, Fig. 28. Pass the cotton across from side to side two or three times, taking an imperceptible stitch through the material, and keeping the three bars of cotton close together and as much like one as possible. Then work over them closely in button-hole, stitch, as shown in Fig. 29. The object of this loop is to prevent the placket-hole from tearing down, and it must be made to all the frocks as well as the petticoats. Next hem round the skirt, as shown at D in Fig. 27, and then gather it finely at the top (E and E) all round. Gathering is simply running, and drawing up the thread.
    It will be necessary to use rather coarse cotton for this purpose, because a fine thread is always exceedingly liable to break in the drawing. However the body is made, the skirt is always constructed in the same way. To make the simple body, Fig. 34, cut a strip of long-cloth five inches wide and twenty-six long. Fold it in four, and hollow out a piece for the arms, as shown in Fig. 31 by the dotted line between F and F. How these arm-holes look when the piece of long-cloth is opened-up maybe seen by referring to the diagram of the completed body (Fig. 37) at G and G. Cut two little strips of long-cloth (cutting down the stuff, not across), each four inches long and one inch and the sixteenth of an inch wide. These are to form shoulder- straps, run and felled on at H and H in Fig. 37, having just nipped off the corners with the scissors, as shown at J J in Fig. 32, treating both arm-holes alike. Then hem all round the arm-hole, and inside the shoulder-strap, making the hem no wider than the sixteenth of an inch, which is the smallest division you will find marked on an English yard-measure [The French, who are much neater workers, preciser copyists, and better fitters, divide their inches into [-118-] thirty parts.] Then hem the backs (K and K in Fig. 37) a 24 quarter of an inch deep. Next hem all along the top, shoulder-straps included, a quarter of an inch deep, and run the narrowest tape in for a band. Cut two strips of long-cloth (down the material) half an inch wide and nineteen inches long. Gather the waist of the body a little at each side of the back and in the centre of the front, as shown in Fig. 37, the limit of the gathers marked by four O's. Measure the strips just cut exactly, and run it to the body on the wrong side, and turn it over. Join the other end of the band to the gathers of the skirt. The second band strip is used to line this, turning it down at both edges, and hemming it on the wrong side, taking care not to let the stitches show through on the right side. This completes the petticoat.
    The second or cheaper petticoat bodice is made like a dress body, and the same illustration will serve for both. Take a piece of long-cloth six and a half inches wide and thirteen inches long, double it exactly in half, the short way, and cut out the front of the bodice like Fig. 30, the fold coming in the centre, at M. Pencil the shape on the stuff, before cutting it out, into a one inch wide band, marked at P, which is put on afterwards, and with ends. Next take long-cloth eight inches wide and fourteen long, double it the narrow way, the fold at a, and cut it the shape illustrated by Fig. 33, afterwards cut it in half at R, as the back is in two pieces. The two back pieces and the front will resemble Fig. 36. Join the pieces together, T to T, running and felling the seam from the arm-hole to the waist. Do the same at the other side, at U and U. Then also run and fell the shoulders, V to V and w to W. Cut a strip band half an inch wide, and turn it down to make a narrow false hem round the top, in which a tape must be run. Hem the arm-hole, and let the waist into a band. A petticoat bodice needs no sleeves. Whip the skirt instead of gathering it, and sew it to the bodice when the bodice itself is quite completed. Whipping is done by rolling the edge of the calico very finely between the fingers, and sewing over the roll in rather long stitches, but such as will draw up into fine gathers. The rolling is done piece by piece as you sew it along. It gives less trouble to turn down about a quarter of an inch of the material, instead of rolling it, but it is less neat. Some persons stroke the gathers down with the point of the needle, which gives a regular appearance, but it is better not to do this to fine muslin, because it helps to wear out the fabric.
    We have already recommended fine dimity for the six gowns of the Layette; but they can be made of plain cambric muslin, at 1s. 6d. a yard. About three yards will be wanted for each frock. There are two breadths in each skirt, a yard and a quarter long, the body is nearly a quarter of a yard deep, and the sleeves and band cut into another quarter width-ways. Eighteen yards will therefore be wanted for six frocks. The addition of embroidery is entirely optional, except round the top and sleeves, where a little fancy work cannot be dispensed with. The embroidery used for the purpose should be very narrow. A simple scallop and dot is pretty enough.
    To make the skirt, cut two breadths (these should not be less and need not be more than twenty-six inches wide), each breadth a yard and a quarter long. Run and fell them together with as narrow a turning as possible, and very fine cotton and small stitches. Hem the bottom, and reduce the length of the skirt to thirty-six inches (that is, a yard) by making a number of tucks. The hem must be of the same width as the tucks.
    There are different ways of tucking the skirts, which give variety to the plainest frocks. We will describe two or three ways. First, a half-inch wide hem, and a number of half-inch wide tucks, each half an inch apart. Second, half-inch hem and half-inch tucks, each one inch apart. ~ Third, half-inch hem and one tuck, half an inch apart. 
    Leave two inches, and make two more tucks, half an inch apart. Leave two inches again, and repeat, making the tucks in the same way till you have sufficient. Fourth, a number of tucks the sixteenth of an inch wide, with the same space between each, and the hem to correspond. Fifth, a hem and two tucks the sixteenth of an inch wide, and the same space between ; miss half an inch, three tucks again; miss another half-inch, and repeat once more. Either of these patterns will look well with a single row of embroidery added at the bottom, but it is not necessary. Wide tucks may also be run in threes, with a wide space between. Sixth, an inch wide hem three quarter-inch tucks, each a quarter of an inch apart. Miss an inch, and make an inch wide tuck and three quarter-inch ones, a quarter of an inch apart. Repeat the tucking once or twice more in the same way.
    A plain body can be made with tucks to correspond, perpendicularly down the body. To make a tucked body, a piece of muslin eight inches wide and the whole length of the material should be cut and tucked across, commencing the tucks three inches from the end; when the tucked piece measures four and a half inches from S to S in Fig. 35, allow three more inches, and cut it off. This piece resembles Fig. 35. Fold it in the centre, and carefully pin it together; then pencil and afterwards cut it to the shape of Fig. 30, having the folded part at M. The back should be made quite plain, and cut in two pieces, like Fig. 33 ; join it in the same way at the sides and shoulders, as shown in Fig. 36. Set the top into a quarter-wide band, the. front of embroidery, or worked with dots or corals, which we will presently describe. The band for the top is made in two pieces; cut each half an inch wide, and allow for turning in. First run the embroidery to the band; -then lay the body on the table, the right side up, towards you. Put the band on it, the wrong side upwards, so that the right side of the band lays face to face with the right side of the body, as shown in Fig. 45, where the tucks on the wrong side of the band can be seen. Pin it, and run it to the top of the body, then turn it up, and you have the right side of both facing you. Line the band by running on the second strip of muslin. Run a tape in. Let the waist into an inch-wide band, made of embroidery or worked with coral or dots. The sleeve is cut on the cross, like Fig. 46, nine inches long and three and a half wide. Y Y is the piece for the hem, which is made after it has been run and felled together at Z Z. Run and fell it into the arm-hole. The skirt must have a placket-hole made, and be drawn into gathers in the same way as the petticoat, and then sewn to the body. Fig. 41 shows a plain frock completed- the neck, waist, and sleeve edges set in bands worked with dots.
    To Work the Dots.-Fill a needle with rather coarse embroidery cotton; commence with a stitch, just as if you were about stitching a waistband. You have inserted your needle in the stuff thus - but do not draw it through - leave it so, as shown in Fig. 40; twist the cotton round it, close up to where it comes out of the stuff (the place is marked by the letter A); twist it a second time in the same way. Draw the needle through; if the worsted cotton be not close up to the stuff pull the thread, and set it with your fingers. Take a second stitch through the very same holes - B and A - and the dot is formed. When dots of graduated sizes are required, take a small stitch, and twist the cotton once, for the first size; a larger stitch, and twist the cotton twice, for the second; a still larger, and twist it thrice, for a larger dot. Two stitches taken in the same place (from B to A) raise the work still more.
    Coral Stitch.-Coral stitch is much used on the joins of embroidery insertions. It should be worked downwards, the thumb of the left band keeping down the thread while the needle is inserted slant-wise above the thread, [-119-] and so drawn through; taking the stitches alternately on the right and left.
    Herringbone Stitch (Fig. 47) need scarcely be explained; we need only to remind our readers that it is very suitable for embroidering babies' shawls and flannels.
    A Pretty Baby's Robe (Fig. 38).-A very pretty baby's robe may be made with the help of the sewing machine, with a front en tablier. A very fine muslin should be chosen. for this purpose. The tucks will require a breadth about two yards long. It is best to work the tucks before cutting the material, as if there is any variation in the width, the length will not be exact. First leave five inches the sixteenth of an inch wide, and work a similar one between. Miss two inches, and repeat till the work is a yard long. Then cut it off. This tucked piece must be gored on both sides. Fold it in the middle and pin it well together and cut both sides together. The half width as it lies doubled must be gored off to five inches across the top. It is better also not to let it measure more than fourteen inches at the bottom. The five inches left are to come at the bottom, one of which is allowed for the hem. Join a plain width to this to make the skirt; but before joining, run down each side of the gored breadth a piece of embroidery-simply a scalloped edge-carry it also across the bottom of the skirt just below the tucks, marked A to A in Fig. 38. When the skirt is completed, add a three and a half inch flounce, to be fluted all round the bottom, the edge scalloped in button-hole stitch. For the body, tuck a straight piece horizontally with small tucks close together, and cut it stomacher shape, as shown in Fig. 39, inserting it into the remainder of the body, with a brace of the scalloped muslin added each side, and straight round the back like a berthe. The sleeves are made the same as Fig. 46, but over them is a frill of the scallops. The waist and neck-band are slightly embroidered, and a simple edging placed round the neck.
    To obtain the stomacher pattern is not difficult; cut the bodice pattern, Fig. 30, in paper, with a pencil mark off the line of the stomacher shown in Fig. 39; cut the tucked piece stomacher-shape, and the side pieces form the remaining portion of the pattern.
    A Christening Robe (Fig. 44).-To make this dress, take half a width of muslin and run tucks three and three with about four inches between each. Cut them apart. In paper cut the pattern of the front of the robe, which is to be a gore twenty-eight inches at the bottom and ten at the top. Cut the half of it in paper, and allow three inches for the centre and outside insertion. Between every three tucks place a row of insertion, laying each on the paper pattern, so as to cut them the right length and not waste the embroidery, which is expensive. Between every three tucks there must be a piece of inch-wide embroidered Insertion. Cut both tucks and insertion a little longer than the pattern to allow for working-up, then neatly join them. Down the centre there is a row of embroidery bordered each side by edging, and this is repeated at each side and carried round the bottom. A plain breadth of wide muslin completes the skirt, which is bordered all round by an embroidered flounce four inches deep. The body is composed of a stomacher of two tucks and one insertion, placed alternately. An insertion, double edged, occupies the centre, and the braces, which form a berthe behind, are of the flouncing embroidery that robes the front of the skirt. The sleeves are plain, like Fig. 46; but covered with a frill of the flouncing. The waist and mock-band are made of insertion, and a narrow edge finishes the top. Christening robes for babes are sometimes made of lace instead of embroidery; but of course this requires everything en suite in richness and costliness, and is by no means necessary.
    Bibs (Figs. 42 and 43) can be purchased for 8d. or tad. well quilted and wadded. If made at home, cut it out in fine soft calico, and a coarser piece for the lining. Thick flannel or cotton-wool should be placed between the calico and lining, so as to absorb the moisture. Then quilt it, pipe it round, and sew on edging.