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Victorian London - Publications - Etiquette and Household Advice Manuals - Cassells Household Guide, New and Revised Edition (4 Vol.) c.1880s [no date] - Sources of our Food Supply - (1) Introductory - (2)

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Volume 1

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SOURCES OF OUR FOOD SUPPLY.-I.

INTRODUCTORY.

THE amount of food required for maintaining the human body in a healthy state varies considerably with the age, occupation, and habits of persons, as well as with the climate and season. Thus, Dr. Playfair is of opinion that 3½ oz. of flesh-formers should be eaten by those who do not work hard, or take great exercise, but that 6 oz. are required daily by those who are engaged in hard productive labour. It has also been calculated that those who are engaged in severe mental labour will require about the same quantity.
    If these amounts be correct, each person-man, woman, and child would, on an average, consume about 62 lbs. per year. The difference in the amount of flesh-formers between 62 lbs. per head a year and that which is produced, shows the quantity which must be imported, or the surplus which can be exported, accordingly as the production is less or greater than the weight named. As it has been shown, approximately, that England does not produce more than about 43 lbs. per head, it is evident that we must obtain large food supplies from abroad and it will be one of the objects of this paper to furnish this information.
    The last census of Great Britain shows that the food supplies of the country must have diminished rather than increased since 1861, as the number of agricultural labourers has decreased, whilst that of artisans has become considerably larger. In spite of the large quantity of cattle and preserved meat brought to this country, the price has risen enormously during the last four- or five-and-twenty years.
    In consequence of this increased value, many importations of preserved meat in various forms have been made. Pickling was one of the earliest plans, and subsequently drying and smoking, which has met with fair success; but the meat thus treated is often objected to in consequence of its occasional hardness and saltness. The most ordinary mode of preserving meat is by packing it in tins, covering it with a lid soldered down so as to be airtight, with the exception of a small hole, then boiling it in a solution of chloride of calcium in water, so as to drive off a considerable proportion of its water, and, when done, filling up the hole with solder. The meat thus prepared, which is known as "Australian meat," is generally too much done, owing to the high temperature (about 250º F.) to which it has been exposed. Another plan has lately been found to some extent successful - viz., that of bringing quarters of beef and mutton from America in rooms kept somewhat above the freezing-point. Live cattle have also been imported very largely.

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THE SOURCES OF OUR FOOD SUPPLY.-II.

As the title of these papers implies, we shall not treat of any articles of food excepting those ordinarily used in this country, and therefore shall not refer even to the quadrupeds and other animals eaten in foreign Countries. A consideration of the very large number of animals and of vegetable products which are used in the different countries under the rule of the British Government would extend these articles to far too great a length ; indeed, our space forbids anything like a full consideration of the subject even within the limits just mentioned.
    Our food supplies are derived from all the three great kingdoms of nature-viz., the animal, vegetable, and inorganic. From the former we obtain what is ordinarily termed "meat," also poultry, game, fish, turtle, mollusks, as well as eggs, milk, cheese, and butter; whilst from the second we procure cereals, succulent vegetables, fruits, condiments, tea, coffee, and sugar; and from the third, water, and, as some say, air.

MEAT.

    Beef is the flesh of oxen, cows, and bulls. There are many breeds of the domestic ox (Bos taurus), which are divided into long and short-horned and the hornless the latter of which are small, and furnish beef of a very fine quality. But the quality of beef does not depend only on the breed, but varies much according to the sex, age, and the food with which it has been supplied. That of the ox or heifer is the best, and most easily digestible, has more flavour, and if the animal have been properly fed, an intermixture of fat and lean. The flesh should not be too dark, or of a light red colour, as in the former case it may be diseased, and in the latter was most probably obtained from a young ox, when it is not so sapid or tender. Cow beef is inferior to ox beef, and if derived from an old animal is very tough, but if from a young one, and especially if from an heifer, it is very good. Bull beef is hard and indigestible, and only fit for sausages.
    Veal is the flesh of a calf, which is often killed in England when it is only a few weeks old. A calf of eight or ten weeks gives better flavoured and more [-152-] digestible meat than one that is younger; but the flesh is by no means easy of digestion, as it contains more gelatine than that of older animals, and being softer more readily slips away from the teeth in the act of mastication. It also should be eaten sooner after it is killed.
    As England does not produce sufficient cattle for consumption, large importations are made ever year. In 1872 the value of oxen and bulls imported alive from France was £12,939, and in 1875 it was £260,991 ; and from Germany, in 1872, it was £917,269, and 1875, £1,074,318; so that the importation from France is enormously on the increase. In addition to these amounts there were importations of salted meat from a America to the value of £277,317 in 1872, and of £346,469 in 1875. The total weight of cured beef imported from all places was 215,581 cwts. The value of the cows and calves imported from Germany was £157,393 in 1872, and £338,285 in 1875; so that our chief foreign supply of living oxen, cows, and calves, comes from Germany. Large cargoes of fresh beef are now being brought to this country in steamers from America and Canada in large compartments specially fitted up, which are freely supplied with air cooled down to 38°. It is found that this temperature keeps the meat as well as a lower one, without so much risk of its becoming bad on being removed from the compartment. The value of fresh meat imported in 1876 was £477,754, against £97,343 in 1875.
    Mutton is obtained from sheep (ovis aries). This animal, unlike the ox, is not believed to have been indigenous here, but to have been introduced into Europe from Africa. The quality of mutton varies with the breed, age, and food of the sheep, the finest in flavour being obtained from the mountainous districts of Scotland and Wales and the downs of England. These sheep are also leaner than those fed in Lancashire, and are of a different breed. Sheep can live well on pasturage which is not sufficient for oxen, and are therefore fed largely on poor lands. The value of sheep and lambs imported from Germany in 1872 was £929,791, and in 1875 £662,720; so that, although the importation of oxen veal, and salted beef has increased, that of sheep has decreased. A considerable increase has, however taken place in salted and fresh meat, not being pork or beef and therefore chiefly mutton, as in 1872 the weight was only 55,354 cwts., whilst in 1875 it was 144,954 cwts The total weight of preserved meat-beef and mutton imported in 1872 was 350,729 cwts., and in 1875 only 171,373 cwts. Mutton hams come from Australia and are good eating. In addition to the above, a cargo of living sheep has very recently been brought from Canada in very good condition.
    Pork is the flesh of the swine or hog (sus scrofa) which is derived from the wild hog - an indigenous animal of Britain, crossed with the foreign breeds of China Africa Spain, and Portugal. The flesh is enclosed in a layer of fat, which when melted down forms lard; so that in this respect it differs from that of other animals. It is one of the most useful animals for food which we possess, as it will live on almost any food, and can readily be preserved by salting. It is also very savoury, and when young is delicate, although even then difficult of digestion. Pigs are subject occasionally to a disease known as measles (Trichina spiralis), so that uncooked hams, bacon, or sausages, should never be eaten. The number of swine imported from Germany has much decreased since 1871, when it was 128,188, whilst in 1872 it was only 4,711, and in 1875, 10,050. The quantity of salt pork brought from America and Germany has, however, somewhat increased, as the value from the former country in 1872 was £300,032, and in 1875 £369,272; and from Germany £56,264 in 1872, and £67,218 in 1875. The value of bacon and hams imported from America in 1872 was £3,458,550, and in 1875 it reached the enormous sum of £5,469,662 ; whilst the imports from Germany in 1872 were only £523,927 against £1,339,024 in 1875 so that we received nearly seven million pounds worth of these articles of food during 1875. In 1876 this large total had increased to £8,554,229, being an excess of more than a million and a half sterling in one year. American bacon loses in cooking a large proportion of its weight, as does also the pickled pork, in consequence of the pigs having been fed upon acorns. There are three qualities of pickled pork imported into this country: "mess," which consists altogether of sides; "prime," of three shoulders, without feet and other joints ; and "cargo," of 30 lbs. of head, four shoulders, and other joints in each barrel.
    Venison is obtained from the deer (Cervus), of which there are three kinds in this country-the red deer (Cervus Elephas), which is the largest, and rarely found wild in England ; the fallow deer (Cervus Dama), which is smaller and paler than the former, and is the kind used for stocking our parks ; and the roe deer (Cervus Capreolus), which has become very scarce in Scotland, and is not met with except in certain districts of the Highlands. The male red deer is called a hart, and the female a hind; the male fallow deer a buck, and the female a doe. The red deer and the roe-buck are indigenous. Venison affords but a very limited food supply, but it is much esteemed, especially the haunch; when obtained from a wild animal it is more difficult of digestion than from a park deer.
    The flesh of the Goat (Capra Hircus) is not much eaten in England, but is more frequently used in Wales, where it is considered nearly equal to venison. The flesh of the kid is tender, and considered by many as a delicacy, but has not much flavour. The milk is richer than that of the cow.
    Amongst the novelties which have been imported from Australia is the meat of the Kangaroo. It much resembles rabbit in colour and flavour, and the tail produces a capital soup, which is prepared in Australia and sent here in hermetically-sealed tins.