LETTER XII
Tuesday, November 27, 1849
When first treating of the poor who will work in
contradistinction to those who either cannot or will not work - I
said that they appeared to be divisible into three classes: - 1. THE ARTISANS,
or those who make something. 2. THE LABOURERS,, or those who do something;
and, 3. THE HUCKSTERS, or those who sell something in order to obtain a
living. The vocation of the latter is to exchange certain commodities, either
for money or for certain other commodities particularly old clothes. This latter
characteristic is peculiar to the hawkers of crockeryware, and to a few other
wandering dealers, and it is generally adopted as a means of evading the act of
Parliament which requires them to obtain a license to follow such a calling.
I shall deal with the bartering of the itinerant
crockerywaremen and other travelling tradesmen, when I come to treat specially
of the hawkers of china and the like. At present I propose devoting my attention
to the hucksters, or out-of-door tradesmen. I do this, not because I pretend to
have yet exhausted either the artisans or the labourers of the metropolis, but
for the same reason that led me to pass from the Spitalfields weavers to the
dock labourers - from the dock labourers to the slopworkers - and from the
slop-workers to the needlewomen of the metropolis. This unsystematic mode of
treating the subject is almost a necessary evil attendant upon the nature of the
investigation. In the course of my inquiries into the earnings and condition of
one class of people, sources of information respecting the habits and incomings
of another are opened up to me, of which, for several reasons, I am glad to
avail myself at the immediate moment, rather than defer making use of them till
a more fitting and orderly occasion. With this brief apology, then, for the
erratic and immethodic nature of my communications, I shall now pass to the
consideration of the habits and gains of
THE HUCKSTERS, OR OUT-OF-DOOR TRADESMEN OF THE METROPOLIS
The huckster is distinguished from the regular tradesman by
the fact that the latter disposes of his goods within doors, and the former in
the open air. Again, the amount of capital and the extent of their respective
dealings are striking points of difference between the street wareman and
the warehouse-man - the stall keeper and the shopkeeper. Further, the
in-door is distinguished from the out-of-door tradesman by the character and
means of his customers. The shopkeeper supplies principally the noblemen and
gentry with the necessaries and luxuries of life, but the huckster is the
purveyor in general to the poor. He brings the greengrocery, the fruit, the
fish, the watercresses, the shrimps, the pies and puddings, the sweet-meats, the
pineapples, the stationery, the linen-drapery, and the jewellery, such as it is,
to the very door of the working classes; indeed, the poor man's food and
clothing are mainly supplied to him in this manner. Hence the class of hucksters
are important, not only as forming a large portion of the poor themselves, but
as being the persons through whom the working people obtain a considerable part
of their provisions and raiment. Now I propose, when I shall have ascertained
the incomings of the operatives throughout London, to endeavour to find out the
prices they pay for the different articles upon which their earnings are spent;
it being quite as important, in an inquiry into the condition of the poor
generally, to know whether they are overcharged for their food, and
clothing, and lodging, as it is to learn whether they are underpaid for
their labour. Consequently, the information derived from the class of people in
question will be doubly serviceable to those who take an interest in the
subject; and I am anxious that my readers should bear this in mind, so that when
I come to the second part of my inquiry, I may be able to state the results
rather than the details of the present investigations.
If we wish to take a comprehensive survey of the class of
hucksters - that is, to view the class in the mass rather than individually - we
should visit the different street-markets of the metropolis on a Saturday night
or Sunday morning. The sight is as strange as it is instructive. The same
struggle as that which I recently described as going on among the dock labourers
for a day's, or indeed an hour's, employment, may here be seen in full force
among the hucksters striving to dispose of their wares. Of these street-markets
there are fifteen held throughout London every Saturday night and Sunday
morning. The largest, or rather the most crowded of these, are held in that part
of Lambeth called the New-cut, and in that part of Somers Town known by the name
of the "Brill. These are both about half a mile in length, and each of them
is frequented by as nearly as possible 300 hucksters. The congregation of
costermongers and others in the Bethnal-green-road averages about the same in
number; but, being spread over twice the distance, the crowd is not so dense as
at the two first-mentioned places. The street-markets in Whitecross-street,
Cripplegate, and Leather-lane, Holborn, are the next in importance. At these
places 150 itinerant dealers assemble every Saturday night. After these come the
street-markets held in the Brompton-road, Tottenham-court-road, High-street
(Shoreditch), Oxford-street, and Whitechapel. Here about 100 hucksters are to be
found on a Saturday night; and then there are Newport and dare markets, Camden
Town, Paddington, and Rosemary-lane markets, which are usually attended by about
fifty costermongers and others on the last night of the week. Hence there are,
in all, fifteen markets in the streets of London held every Saturday night and
Sunday morning, to which 1,950 hucksters resort to dispose of their different
wares. But besides the concourse of itinerant dealers who are assembled in the
places above enumerated, there are a large quantity of stragglers distributed at
the same times throughout the metropolis; so that the number of hucksters in
London may be said to be between two and three thousand. In order to arrive at
the above estimate, the principal part of the localities abovementioned have
been visited, at the busiest time, with the express purpose of ascertaining the
precise number and character of the itinerant dealers frequenting them. At the New-cut
there were, between the hours of eight and ten last Saturday evening, ranged
along the kerb-stone on the north side of the road, beginning at Broadwall to
the Marsh, a distance of nearly half a mile, a dense line of itinerant tradesmen
- 77 of whom had vegetables for sale, 40 fruit, 25 fish, 22 boots and shoes, 14
eatables, consisting of cakes and pies, hot eels, baked potatoes, and boiled
whelks; 10 dealt in nightcaps, lace, ladies' collars, artificial flowers, silk
and straw bonnets; 10 in tin ware, such as saucepans, tea-kettles, and
Dutch-ovens; nine in crockery and glass, seven in brooms and brushes, five in
poultry and rabbits, six in paper, books, songs, and almanacs; three in baskets,
three in toys, three in chickweed and watercresses, three in plants and flowers,
two in boxes, and about 50 more in sundries, such as pigs' chaps, black lead,
jewellery, marine stores, side combs, sheep's trotters, peep-shows, and the
like. The generality of these street- markets are perfectly free, any party
being at liberty to stand there with his goods, and "the pitch or stand
being secured simply by setting the wares down upon the most desirable spot that
may be vacant. In order to select this the hucksters usually arrive at the
market at four o'clock in the afternoon, and having chosen their
"pitch," they leave the articles they have for sale in the custody of
a boy until six o'clock, when the market begins. At some of the localities, such
as the Brill, Clare, and other markets, no parties, I am informed, are allowed
to stand and offer their goods for sale unless their names are previously
inserted in the book of the street-keeper of the neighbourhood. The class of
customers at these places are mostly the wives of mechanics and labourers. Here,
and in the shops immediately adjoining, the working classes mostly purchase
their Sunday's dinner, and after pay-time on Saturday night, or early on Sunday
morning, the crowd in the New-cut, and the Brill in particular, is almost
impassable. Indeed, the scene in these parts has more of the character of a fair
than a market. There are hundreds of stalls, and every stall has its light.
Either it is illuminated by the bright white light of the new self-generating
gas-lamp, or else it is lighted by the red smoky flame of the old-fashioned
grease lamp. The goods of some stalls are shown off by the more primitive means
of a candle stuck in a turnip, and others have merely the old horn lantern. Some
stalls are crimson with the fire shining through the holes beneath the baked
chestnut stove, others have handsome octohedral lamps, while a few have a candle
shinrng through a sieve - these, with the sparkling ground-glass globes of the
tea dealers' shops, and the butchers' gaslights, streaming and fluttering in the
wind like flags of flame, pour forth such a flood of light, that at a distance
the atmosphere immediately above the spot is as lurid as if the street were on
fire. Then the tumult of the thousand different cries of the eager dealers, all
shouting at the top of their voices, at one and the same time, is almost
bewildering. "Sold again!" roars one. "Chestnuts all hot, a penny
a score!" bawls another. "A halfpenny a skin, blacking! squeaks a boy.
"Buy, buy, buy!" cries the butcher. "Half-quire o' paper for a
penny!" bellows the street stationer. "A halfpenny a lot, inguns!"
"Twopence a pound, grapes!" "Three a penny, Yarmouth bloaters!
"Who'll buy a bonnet for fourpence?" "Pick 'em out cheap here,
three pair for a halfpenny, bootlaces!" "Now's your time! beautiful
whelks, a penny a lot." "Here's ha'p'orths!" shouts the
perambulating confectioner. "Come and look at 'em; here's toasters!"
bellows one with a Yarmouth bloater stuck on a toasting- fork. "Penny a
lot, fine russets!" calls the applewoman; and the Babel goes on. Then the
sights, as you elbow through the crowd, are equally multifarious. Here is a
stall glittering with new tin saucepans; there another, bright with its blue and
yellow crockery, and sparkling with white glass. Now you come to a row of old
shoes, arranged along the pavement, now to a stand of gaudy tea- trays; then to
a shop with red handkerchiefs and blue checked shirts, fluttering backwards and
forwards, and a counter built up outside on the kerb, behind which are boys
beseeching custom. At the door of this tea-shop, with many globes of light,
stands a man delivering bills, thanking the public for past favours, and defying
competition. Here, alongside the road, stand some half- dozen headless tailors'
dummies, dressed in Chesterfields and fustian jackets, each labelled "look
at the prices" or "observe the quality." After this is a
butcher's shop, red and white with the meat piled up to the first floor. A
little further on stands the clean family begging, the father with his head
down, as if in shame, and a box of lucifers held forth in his hand - the boys in
newly-washed pinafores, and the tidy mother with a child at her breast. This
stall is green and white with bunches of turnips; that is red with apples. One
minute you pass a man with an umbrella turned up inside and full of prints; the
next you hear a man with a peep-show of Mazeppa, and Paul Jones the Pirate,
describing the pictures to the boys looking in at the little round windows; and
the moment afterwards you see either a black man clad in white, shivering in the
cold with tracts in his hand; or else you hear a band, the sounds of music from
the circus on the other side of the road, and the man outside the door
beseeching you to be in time, as Mr. Somebody is just about to sing his
favourite song of the "Knife Grinder!" Such, indeed, is the riot, the
struggle, and the scramble for a living, that, wild as the scene of the London
Docks appeared, the confusion and uproar of the New-cut on Saturday night
overwhelms the thoughtful mind. Until it is seen and heard, we have no sense of
the scramble that is going on throughout London for a living. The same scene
takes place at the Brill - the same in Leather-lane - the same in
Tottenham-court-road - the same in Whitecross-street. Go to whatever corner of
the metropolis you please, either on a Saturday night or a Sunday morning, and
there is the same shouting to get the penny profit out of the poor man's Sunday
dinner.
Having described the main characteristics of the places where
the hucksters of the metropolis may be seen in large numbers, let me now proceed
to give the reader an idea of the earnings and habits of people coming under
that denomination.
A large class of hucksters are street
fishmongers. They deal in all kinds of fish, "wet" and
"dry." The fish they purchase at Billingsgate; they get herrings and
sprats on board the fishing-smacks lying off the stairs. Live eels they purchase
out of the Dutch vessels at 8s. to 10s. the draught of 20 lbs. weight, the price
of the best; but the general dealers buy "seconds," and pay about 5s.
the draught for them. They are usually sold in sand; some say it is to keep them
alive, and some say to dry them, and make them easy to be caught hold of; but
the real reason is to increase the weight of them. There is generally about
3lbs. weight of sand added to 20lbs. of eels. They also deal in shellfish. These
they sell by measure. The wet fish is sold by the hucksters, either by the pound
or singly. The fish that they sell by the pound is generally codfish, and
sometimes salmon. The weighing-machine and weights, by which these fish are
weighed out, admit of being used according to the generosity or meanness of the
purchaser. If the customer is liberal, he is generally pretty fairly treated;
but, if he is "scaly," as the dealers call it, the weight is regulated
according to the reduction in the price. They have generally two kinds of
weights, the one fair and the other "light. They are both the same in size,
but the light one is hollowed at the bottom, and kept with the fair one in the
barrow, ready for use; so that if the purchaser attempts to screw them down in
price, they always make a rule of taking it out in weight, by substituting the
light weight for the other. The difference between the weights that I saw was
generally one-half. The The weighing-machines which they use generally have a
draught of two ounces in the pound, arising from the weight of the pan; and this
admits of being increased to three or four ounces by placing the fish at the
extreme end of the pan. The measures by which they sell the winkles, and
cockles, and muscles, have all false bottoms, and some of these are made so that
a smaller tin measure will fit exactly within another, and can be inserted or
slid out dexterously, according as the customer is a "jonnock," or a
"scaly cove" - that is, a liberal or mean person. Indeed, their rule,
they say, is to be "level chalks" with their customers, be they what
they may, and they always take care to have the laugh on their side. In fact,
they usually manage, let the price offered be as low as it may - and they seldom
refuse an offer - to get at least cent. per cent. out of their customers. They
generally reckon to get as much out of an article, they say, as it cost them.
They generally buy the fish that the fishmongers object to furnish. It is mostly
"rough," as they call it. If it blows hard, mackerel especially will
change their colour or "go dark," when exposed to the air. When they
do this, the hucksters are obliged to get them off cheap, and to sell to the
best advantage after daylight. A candle helps to brighten the fish up. In such
cases they generally manage to get their own money back. Mackerel is as
perishable an article as they deal in. When they buy fish by measure, they
always reckon up the cost of each, and then, if they sell singly, they ask the
same price for the large and the small ones all round. This is usually double
what they cost. If the customer offers a little less than the sum asked, they
usually consent to take it, and make up the deficiency out of the next customer
by putting off one of the small fish upon him at the price of the large ones. In
selling live eels a cloth is used to weigh them in, and as this bag absorbs the
moisture of the fish, so it increases in weight. By this means about one-quarter
part of every pound of eels weighed out is due to the "wet" sucked up
by the bag, another quarter of the pound to light weight; so that the pound of
fish seldom weighs much more than 8 oz. The dealers, if the day is rainy and the
stones are wet, frequently place the bag on the pavement while serving a
customer. By this means the cloth bag will often increase a quarter of a pound
in weight. Small eels are sold by the hucksters at 3d. to 4d. a pound. Salmon
they often call at 6d., when it cost them as much as 6½d. per lb. The profit is
made up in deficient weight. I was shown pound weights varying from 12 to 8 oz.,
which are used according to the liberality or meanness of the purchaser. This,
with the 2 oz. draught of the weighing machine, and the other ounce that is
gained by the dealer placing the article at the extremity of the weighing pan,
will reduce the huckster's pound to 9 or 5 oz., according as he pleases.
A rough cod, weighing 10 lbs., will be bought often for 1s. 6d., and sold by the
huckster at 3d. or 4d. per huckster's pound: the head and shoulders are disposed
of in the "lump." So that, taking the huckster's pound on an average
at 8 oz. - it is frequently only 6 oz. - the cod would weigh 20 lbs.; and this
at 3d. would yield 5s., or 200 per cent. profit. People have got almost
too knowing, they say, to stand their touching the tongue of the beam scale with
their little finger, so they generally now manage matters by the weights. Sprats
they generally sell by the pound. They call them two pounds for a penny, and
there is usually, they tell me, but one. Periwinkles they sell 3d. a quart, and
if they cannot get that sum for them, they call them at ld. per pint, and serve
them out in a short measure. The measure is a pewter pint pot, with a tin lining
made like a funnel. This is called a short pint, and is less than half the
proper quantity. The street fishmongers have sometimes a truck or barrow. Those
who have regular customers occasionally have a cart and horse. These are of the
highest class. Many of the street fishmongers use a tray or small board, which
they carry on their head; but the generality of them use a head basket, about
the size of a clothes basket; fitting on the top of his is a shallow basket, in
which a few of the fish are placed, and the greater part kept below. Generally
these baskets are their own. They are made expressly for the class at 3s. 6d.
the pair (i.e., the head basket and "shallow "), and with care
they will last about two years. Few borrow these baskets; when they do so they
pay ld. a day for the use of them; but they seldom borrow any basket but the
"show shallows," which are used for shrimps. These baskets have the
bottom made to bulge upwards, so as to make the stock look extensive. The
barrows are almost always borrowed, and for these they pay 2s. a week, or 4d. a
day in summer, and in winter from 1s. 6d. to 1s. a week, or 3d. a day. The
barrows are branded all over with the initials of the proprietor, so that it is
difficult for the party borrowing them, they say, "to make a bolt with
them." The cost of a barrow when new is 25s. to 30s., and l4s. second-hand.
The street fishmongers generally borrow the money with which they purchase their
stock, as well as their barrow. Some, especially in the summer time, will get
the loan of £1. For this they have to pay 2s. 6d. per week; or for the loan of
a sovereign and a barrow they pay 4s. at the end of the week. If they borrow 15s.,
they pay 2s. for the loan of the money; and if they hire a barrow as well, the
price for the accommodation is 3s. 3d. If they want only 10s., they have to give
1s. 6d. per week for it, or with a barrow 3s. Some require only 8s. to be lent
them, and for this they have to pay 1s. a week for the loan; if a barrow is
wanted as well, the charge is 2s. 6d. per week for the two. The barrow they are
allowed to keep on their premises if they think proper; but the money they are
expected to show to the lender when they go to pay for the loan in the course of
the Sunday evening. This is often done week after week for years; the hucksters
frequently paying, in the course of the twelvemonth, £10 for the loan of £1
and a barrow, that cost 30s. when new, and which will wear four years well. For
the loan of l5s. and a barrow, they pay as much as £8 10s. in the year; for
10s. and a barrow, they pay about £7; and for the loan of 8s. and a barrow,
they have to give about £6 per annum. If the hucksters neglect to show the
money to the lender on the Sunday evening, he sends to them on the Monday to
learn the cause of their non-appearance, and if he finds they have broken into
the stock-money, he will never lend to them again. He knows, from the interest
he takes, that it is useless summoning the defaulters, and consequently
threatens, if the stock- money be not produced, that he will never help them
again. The money and barrow lenders are very well to do, and make large sums of
money. One man is the proprietor of upwards of 100 harrows. The costermongers
and hucksters generally borrow their stock-money and barrows of these people,
and pay for them after the above rates. The barrow proprietor above referred to
charges more for the money he lends than others, and gives the borrowers a
shilling a week, under the belief that by so doing he makes servants of them,
and can therefore proceed against them for embezzlement if they
"decamp" with the money. Sometimes the street fishmonger will take
fish instead of money of the barrow proprietor. If this should be a pad of
mackerel, for which he has paid perhaps 15s., he will let the street fishmonger
have it upon the understanding that he will bring him £1 when he has sold it
all off. If the street fishmonger cannot sell the fish, the lender still
requires the money. "If you didn't know you could sell it," he says,
"you shouldn't have had it." To start in the street fishmongering line
about £1 is required for a barrow, and about 10s. for stock- money to trade
upon. Some people are brought up to the business from their childhood; others
take to it because they cannot find employment at their regular trade. Many
prefer it, because they like what is called a "roving life," and
prefer to be their own masters. When any one of the class
is in distress - that is to say, without stock-money, and unable to borrow it,
or sick - a raffle for some article of his is called at a public-house in the
neighbourhood. Cards are printed, and distributed among his mates. The article,
let it be whatever it may - perhaps a handkerchief - is put up at 6d. a member,
and from twenty to forty members are got, according as the man is liked by his
"mates," or as he has assisted others similarly situated. The paper of
every raffle to the list of subscribers to his raffle before he puts his name
down to a raffle for another party, in order to see if the person ever assisted
him. Raffles are very "critical things, the pint pots fly about wonderful
sometimes" - to use the word of one of my informants. The party is
expected to take the chair, if he can write down the subscribers' names. One who
had been chairman at one of these meetings assured me that on a particular
occasion, having called a general dealer to order, the party very nearly split
his head open with a quart measure. If the hucksters know that the person
calling the raffle is "down," and that it is necessity that has made
him call it, they will not allow the property put up to be thrown for. The
people in the street-fishmongering line mostly live in King-street, Drury-lane,
or in Duck-lane, Westminster, in the courts and alleys out of Brick-lane,
Shoreditch, or in Baldwin's-gardens, Gray's-inn- lane, and in the alleys about
Portpool-lane and Leather-lane; those about the New-cut live in Artichoke-place
and Webber-street, Lambeth; those frequenting Somers Town live in the courts and
alleys out of Brill-court; those frequenting Tottenham-court-road, in the low
courts and alleys round about Fitzroy-square. In three streets about Drury-lane
there are twenty-two street-fishmongers and general dealers. There are said to
be thousands of general dealers, street-fishmongers, and costermongers in
London. One person assured me he had seen in Billingsgate market in the fish
season, at the end of January, from 700 to 800 hucksters of fish; and in
Covent-garden-market, in the strawberry season, at four in the morning, he has
seen full 600 costermongers.
Men and women are the parties chiefly engaged in selling fish
in the streets, but the principal part are men. Children are occasionally sent
out by their parents to call the fish; and often boys are engaged to push the
harrows through the streets, while the women walk beside the barrow, and serve
the fish, and take the money. The generality of the class are disposed to drink.
Being exposed to all weathers, they say that a little drop keeps out the cold.
Taking one with another - those who drink violently and those who take only a
little - it is thought they spend on an average 5s. a week each in
liquor. They are generally honest one to the other; but I am told by one of the
class that they are always dishonest to the public, because their customers will
not allow them to be otherwise. They frequently, when money is given them to
change, walk off with the whole amount, and don't reappear in the same street
for some time afterwards. It is seldom that they go off with the hired barrows -
these being branded all over. It is believed by one who
has belonged to the class for sixteen years, that one-third of the hucksters of
London are living with females in an unmarried state. Out of fourteen persons
living in his immediate neighbourhood, he himself knew seven couples who were
cohabiting, and one man who lived in incestuous intercourse with his own
daughter. Hence it is considered by their own body, that a fair estimate would
be that one-half who live together as man and wife are unmarried. They lose very
little by dealing in perishable commodities, for they have a way, they say,
which prevents that. When the fish gets a little high, they fly to the poor
quarters of London, where there are many Irish, and they being of a "strong
nature" - to use the words of an old street fishmonger - they are no ways
particular as to what they eat. The man said he could assure me that he had sold
them some pretty high before now - some that people would have to put in pickle
for some hours before they could touch them. In cold weather they often keep
fish for four days after they have bought it, and in summer for 36 hours. Those
who have any left after the day's business, if they live in an attic, generally
put the residue outside their window, in a basket on the parapet, and having
covered it with a wet blanket, place a heavy weight upon the lid to prevent the
cats getting at it. If there is any cellar to the house, they generally keep the
remainder of their stock there; and if there is not, they keep it in their own
sleeping room. They begin work at about six in the morning, generally. They go
to market, get home with their goods about nine o'clock, have their breakfast,
and get out with their goods about ten. Those who have no stall call their fish
round the streets, "Plaice alive - four for sixpence!" They cry,
"Soles alive - twopence a pair!" "It makes no matter to us
whether they are alive or dead - we call them all alive," said one to me;
and so on, whatever the article may be. The continual calling of the goods is
very distressing to the voice. One man told me that it had broken his, and that
very often while out he loses his voice altogether. They seem to have no breath,
they say, after calling for a little while. The continual calling brings on a
hoarseness, which is one of the peculiar characteristics of the hucksters in
general. They have mostly their little bit of a "round;" that is, they
go only to certain places; and if they don't sell their goods, they "work
back" the same way again. They generally prefer the poorer neighbourhoods.
If they visit a respectable quarter they confine themselves to the mews near the
gentlemen's houses. They go down or through mostly
all the courts and alleys, and avoid all the better kind of streets. If they
have anything inferior, they visit the low Irish districts - for the Irish
people, they say, want only quantity, and care nothing about quality - that they
don't study, they say; but if they have anything they wish to make a price of,
they seek out the mews, and try to get it off among the gentlemen's coachmen,
for they will have what is good; or they go among the residences of
mechanics, for their wives, they say, like what is good as well as the coachmen.
Wednesdays and Fridays are the best days, because they are regular fish days.
These two days are considered to be those on which the poorer classes generally
run short of money. Wednesday night is called "draw-night" among the
mechanics and labourers; that is, they then get a portion of their wages in
advance, and on Friday they run short as well as on the Wednesday, and have to
make shift for their dinner with the few halfpence they have left. They are glad
to pick up anything cheap, and the street-fishmonger never refuses an offer.
Besides, he can supply them with a cheaper dinner than any other person. In the
herring season the poor generally dine upon them. The poorer classes live mostly
upon fish, and the "dropped" and "rough" fish is bought
chiefly for the poor. The fish-huckster has no respect for persons; however, one
assured me that if Prince Halbert was to stop him in the street to buy a pair of
soles of him, he'd as soon sell him a "rough pair as any other man; indeed,
I'd take in my own father," he added, "if he wanted to deal with
me." Saturday is the worst day of all for fish, for then the poor
people have scarcely anything at all to spend. The best season for the street-
fishmonger begins about October and ends in May. In October they generally deal
in fresh herrings, and these last up to about the middle or end of November.
This is about his best season. The herrings he sells to the poor, upon an
average, at eight or ten a groat, or from 4s. to 5s. the hundred. After
November the sprat and plaice season begins. The regular street-fishmonger
seldom deals in sprats. He "works" these only when there is no other
fish to be got. He considers this trade generally beneath him, and more fit for
the women than the men. The plaice season continues to the first or second week
of May. During May the casualty season is on, and there is little fish certain
from that time till salmoon comes in, and this is about the end of the month.
The salmon season lasts till about the middle of June. There is not much to be
made at this work, because they say it is only halfpence and pence profit. At
first-hand he will pay about from 5d. to 5½d., and sell it 6d. to 6½d. per
pound. The profit he would make up in short weight. While I was obtaining this
information, a man went past the window of the house in which I was seated, with
a barrow drawn by a donkey. He was calling "Fresh; cod, oh! - l½d. a
pound, cod alive, oh!" My informant called me to the window, saying,
"Now, here is what we call rough cod. He told me they were three days old.
He thought it was eatable now, he said. The eyes were thick and heavy and
sunken, and the limp tails of the fish dangled over the ends of the barrow. He
said it was a hanging market today; that is, things had been dear, and the
hucksters couldn't pay the price for them. He said he should fancy the man had
probably paid for the fish from 9d. to 1s. each, which was at the rate of ld.
per lb. He was calling them at l½d. He would not take less than this, until he
had "got his own money in;" and then, probably, if he had one or two
left, he would put up with ld. per lb. The weight he was "working" was
12 oz. to the pound. My informant told me he knew this, because he had borrowed
his 12 oz. pound weight that morning. This, with the draught of two ounces in
the weighing machine, and the ounce gained by placing the fish at the end of the
pan, would bring the actual weight given to nine ounces per pound, and probably
he had even a lighter pound weight ready for a "scaly" customer.
"The salmon season," continued my informant, "is the worst season
for the street fishmonger. The profits are small per pound, and it is a very
delicate fish. If kept at all 'over,' it loses its colour, and turns to a pale
red, which is seen immediately the knife goes into the fish. After he has done
his morning's work, he generally goes out with his tub of pickled salmon on a
barrow or stall, and sells it in saucers at ld. each, or by the piece. It is
generally bought for 7s. a kit, a little bit "pricked." ["We're
in no ways particular to that," said my candid friend. "We don't have
the eating of it ourselves, and people a'n't always got their taste."]
Towards the end of June the street fishmonger looks for mackerel, and he is
generally employed in selling this fish up to the end of July. After July the
Billingsgate season is said to be finished. From this time to the middle of
October, when the herrings return, he is generally engaged selling dried
haddocks and red herrings, and other casualty fish that may come across him.
Many of the street fishmongers object to deal in periwinkles, or stewed muscles,
or boiled whelks, because, being accustomed to take their money in sixpences at
a time, they do not like to traffic in halfpenny-worths. These dealers are
generally looked upon as an inferior class. One old woman that my informant knew
earned from 3s. to 4s. out of boiled whelks, stewed muscles, and hot eels, on a
Saturday night. There are during the day two periods for the sale of street
fish, the one beginning about ten in the morning and lasting till one in the day
- this is the end of the morning trade; the night trade begins from six in the
evening up to the hour of ten at night. What is left in the forenoon is
generally disposed of cheap at night. What is sold at the latter time is
generally used by the working class for supper, or kept by them with a little
salt, in a cool place, if it will last as long, for the next day's dinner.
Several articles are sold by the street fishmonger chiefly by night. These are
oysters, lobsters, pickled salmon, hot eels, stewed muscles, and the like. The
reason why the latter articles sell better by night is, my informant says,
"because people are loftly-minded, and don't like to be seen eating on 'em
in the street in the daytime." Shrimps and winkles are the staple
commodities of the afternoon trade, which lasts from three to half-past five in
the evening. These articles are generally bought by the working classes for
their tea. "Taking it upon an average," says my informant, "one
with another, bad and good, rough and smooth, I say a man may earn about 16s. a
week right through the year. With a stock of 10s., a man can earn £1 a week for
many weeks in the season; but when the casualty time comes on, his earnings are
seldom more than a dozen shillings. This year the street fish trade has been
very bad, owing to the cholera, and the distress among the dealers has been very
great. If they bought fish they could not sell their goods, and were obliged to
lose money by them. This has broken into the stock-money of many, and they can't
do anything. Their customers, they say, are great "screws," and beat
them down terribly. Such is the state of the working classes, they have little
or no money to spend. "Why, I can assure you," said one of the parties
from whom I obtained the above information, "there's my missis; she sits at
the corner of the street with fruit. Eight years ago she would have taken 8s.
out of that Street on a Saturday, and last Saturday week she had one bushel of
apples, cost 1s. 6d. She was out from ten in the morning till ten at night, and
all she took that day was 1s. 7½d." Go to whoever you will, you will hear
much upon the same thing. Another told me, "The hucksters are often obliged
to sell the things for what they gave for them. The people haven't got money to
lay out with them - they tell us so; and if they are poor, we must be poor too.
If we can't get a profit upon what goods we buy with our stock-money, let it be
our own or anybody's else, we are compelled to live upon it, and when that's
broken into we must either go to the workhouse or starve. If we go to the
workhouse, they'll give us a piece of dry bread, and abuse us worse than dogs.
They all assured me they had never heard of any huckster keeping any accounts,
and they one and all were convinced I should not find such a thing in the trade.
The hucksters generally go out with a boy to cry their goods for them. If they
come to have two or three hallooing together, it makes more noise than one could
do, and the boys can shout better and louder than the men. They have found the
trade so bad lately that many have been obliged to have a drum for their
"bloaters," to drum the fish off, as they call it. The more noise they
can make in a place the better they find the trade. "There are a great many
of us altogether, sir," said one to me. "The men could get a living,
but the hucksters now make a practice of sending boys out with the goods, and
the young'uns sell 'em for a mere song. These boys are about twelve years of
age, and generally get "2d. and a bit of victuals" a day for their
services. The parties who employ these boys do a little better than others, but
those who sell for themselves are greatly injured by them. The boys are employed
because they enable the huckster to undersell the others. "We're all
trying," they told me "to cut one another down, because we all want a
livelihood, and unless we did cut one another down we couldn't get it. If you go
down into Clare-market, you'll see that one butcher is a-striving, like us all,
to cut his neighbour's throat, by selling cheaper than him. And the shopkeeper
won't let us sell near him, because we can sell cheaper than them."
"Ten out of twelve," said one to me, in answer to my inquiry as to the
state of education among the class, "can't read a hay from a
bull's foot. I thinks costermongers generally the worst scholars a-going."
"If you take the generality of costermongers," I was told by another,
"you will find them mostly of the lowest class - generally a reprobate set
of people - that is, abusive and vulgar in their language. We all know one
another all over London, by sight if not by name, by meeting one another at the
markets, and by being continually about the streets selling. Their amusements
generally of an evening are dancing and singing. They meet at some public-house
in the neighbourhood - men and women, and occasionally a few youths. They have a
regular fiddler, and they dance four-handed reels; frequently they have a
"clog-hornpipe," in which the men dance in wooden shoes. Sometimes
they do the "pipe dance." For this a number of tobacco-pipes, about a
dozen, are laid close together on the floor, and the dancer places the toe of
his boot between the different pipes, keeping time with the music. Two of the
pipes are ranged as a cross, and the toe has to be inserted between each of the
angles, without breaking them. Sometimes one of the party does the hornpipe in
fetters. The songs on such occasions are generally sentimental, and a few
"flash." "They like something, sir, that is worth hearing,"
said my informant, "such as the 'Soldier's Dream,' or the 'Dream of
Napoleon.'" Their usual style of dress on a
working day is a long dark green corduroy jacket, with long sleeves and large
buttons, what they call the "cable-cord" trousers, and high lace-up
boots with heavy nails; they have a yellow Belcher handkerchief round the neck;
and most have caps, on account of carrying their load out of market. The
knee-breeches are not so common as they formerly were; and I am assured that the
long corduroy jacket and cable-cord trousers is the last new fashion among them.
The fishmongers have always a blue serge apron, either hanging down or tucked up
round their hips. They seldom make any alteration in their dress on a Sunday. If
they have another coat for Sundays, it is generally a brown velvet Petersham,
with the pockets in the front, and large brass stag's-head buttons. Their wives
are usually in the same line. The women mostly have a stall at the corner of
some street, or otherwise opposite some housekeeper's door from whom they can
obtain the right of standing. They sell sprats, fish, fruit, and vegetables.
"If you was to go to the raffle tonight, sir," said one of them to me,
"they'd say to one another directly you come in, Who's this here swell?
What's he want?' And they'd think you were a 'cad,' or otherwise a spy, come
from the police. But they'd treat you civilly, I'm sure. Some, very likely,
would fancy you was a fast kind of a gentleman, come there for a lark. But you
need have no fear, though the pint pots does fly about sometimes.
A costermonger is, strictly
speaking, a man who takes fruit and vegetables about the streets in a cart or
barrow for sale. The people who carry oranges, chestnuts, or walnuts, or Spanish
nuts about the town, are not considered as costermongers, but are generally
classed by the regular men with the water-cress women, the sprat women, the
winkle dealer, and such others, whom they generally consider beneath them. The
hucksters of oranges and nuts are generally Irish; indeed, the orange season is
said by the costermonger to be the poor Irishman's harvest. The regular
costermonger deals in all kinds of green and dry fruit, excepting oranges and
chestnuts. If they sell walnuts, they reserve these, they say, for their Sunday
afternoon's pastime. The usual kinds of fruit they deal in are strawberries,
raspberries (plain and stalked), cherries, apricots, plums, greengages,
currants, apples, pears, damsons, green and ripe gooseberries, and pineapples.
They also deal in vegetables, such as turnips, greens, broccoli, carrots,
onions, celery, rhubarb, new potatoes, peas, beans (French and scarlet, broad
and Windsor), asparagus, vegetable marrow, seakale, spinach, lettuces, small
salads, etc. Their fruit they usually buy at Covent-garden, Spitalfields, or the
Borough markets. Occasionally they may buy some at Farringdon, but that they
reckon to be very little better than a haggler's market. A haggler is a
middle-man who attends in the fruit and vegetable markets, and buys off the
salesmen to sell to the retail dealer or costermonger. The costermongers
generally prefer Covent-garden market, and in the strawberry season, at four in
the morning, they frequently attend there to the number of from 700 to 1,000.
The strawberry season begins about June, and continues till about the middle of
July. During this time they make about 5s. a day, and even more when they
first come in. From the middle to the end of July they "work"
raspberries. During July cherries are "in" as well as raspberries; but
many "costers" prefer working raspberries, because "they're a
quicker sixpence." The cherries are sold by them, they tell me, at 2d. per
lb. of 12 oz. generally; and if at ld., they give but eight ounces to the pound,
which, with the draught of the scales and mode of weighing, brings the pound
weight to about 5oz. The costermonger working cherries generally earns about 5s.
a day. After the cherries they go to work upon plums, which they have about
the end of August. They sell them by the quart, at from 2d. to 3d. the quart
with the false bottom. At this they generally make 4s. a day. Apples and pears
come in after the plums, in the month of September, and the apples last them all
through the winter till the month of May. The pears last only till Christmas.
Currants they work about the latter end of July, or beginning of August. They
sell them at 10d. to 1s. the gallon (short measure, the coster's quart being
only a pint-and-a-half, and very often not that). "There are some 'pots' in
this street," said one to me, "don't hold a pint;" and besides
this, to use the words of my informant, "the mode of dropping them in
light, instead of letting them fall in heavy and fair, makes a great difference
in the measure." [While I was receiving this information the same dealer in
cod who had passed the window in the morning was heard at the bottom of the
street, still shouting, "Live cod here, a penny a pound!" I said to
the costermonger with whom I was that he had come down a halfpenny since the
morning. "Yes," said his wife, "and that's at the rate of 2d. a
pound - now he's only working eight ounces, if that." "It's very nasty
fish," said the wife, "all bruised."] Pineapples, when they were
first introduced, were a rich harvest to the costermonger. They made more money
"working" these than any other article. They cost them about 4d. each,
one with the other, good and bad together, and were sold by the costermonger at
from 1s. to 1s. 6d. The public were not aware then that the pines they sold were
"salt-water touched," and the people bought them as fast as they could
sell, not only by the whole one, but at ld. a slice - for those who could not
afford to give ls. would have a slice as a taste for ld. They were a novelty
when they first came up. The costermongers used to have flags flying at the head
of their barrows, and gentlefolks used to stop them in the street; indeed, the
sale for them was chiefly among "the gentry." The poorer people -
sweeps, dustmen, cab- men - used to have pennyworths, but gentlepeople used to
buy a whole one to take home, so that all the family might have a taste. This
was four years ago, but since then there has not been such a call for them. The
vessel in which they first came over was exposed to very bad weather, and the
salt-water damaged them so as to make them unsaleable by the regular fruiterer.
They were bought cheap by the costermonger, and he made a great deal of money
out of them. One costermonger assured me he had taken as much as 22s. a day out
of them during the rage when they first came up; but since then they have been
too dear for the costermongers to do much at them. In the vegetable line the
costermonger "works" greens during the winter months up to about the
month of March; from that time they are getting "leathery," the leaves
become foxy, and they eat tough when boiled; consequently he is obliged to apply
inside the market to see what he can make a penny out of. The greens they
consider very heavy luggage, like turnips, for little money. There is a poor
living got out of greens. Upon an average they can make 2s. a day out of them.
The costermongers generally do not like dealing either in greens or turnips.
They would sooner "work" green peas and new potatoes. They can get a
very tidy living, they say, out of these. Their measure is about one-third
short. They will sell mostly a sack of peas in the morning. Many people will not
take the costermonger's measure, but insist upon being served in their own. Some
costermongers take their goods round in a pony and barrow. For the hire of this
they would pay about 4s., and have to keep the pony. The costermonger does more
with a pony, because he can go a further distance. Many of them have a donkey
and barrow. For the hire of this they pay 6d. a day, and give the animal one
feed of corn. The costermonger does the best at fruit; but this he can work,
with the exception of apples, only about four months in the year. During that
time he makes upon an average 4s. a day, taking one day with another. They lose
but little from the fruit spoiling. If it doesn't fetch a good price, it must
fetch a bad one, they say. They are never at a great loss by fruit. At
vegetables and apples the costermonger makes about 2s. a day on an average, for
five months in the year; but when lettuces and radishes come in he can make
about 3s. 6d. Taking one week with another all the year, he will earn about 16s.
a week. They have often to wait for articles coming into season. They find the
women the hardest or "scaliest" customers. They say that , whatever
price they ask, the women will always try to save the market or gin penny out of
it; and this they do that they may have a "glass of something short"
before they go home.
The "general dealer"
is a kind of costermonger and street fishmonger. He is a man who
"works" everything through the season. He generally begins the year
with sprats or plaice; then he deals in soles until the month of May; after this
he takes to mackerel, haddocks, or red herrings. Next he trades in strawberries
or raspberries; from this he would take to green and ripe gooseberries; thence
he would go to cherries; from cherries he would change to red or white currants;
from them to plums or greengages, and from them to apples and pears, and
damsons. After these he mostly works a few vegetables, and he continues with
these until the fish begins again. Some general dealers occasionally trade in
sweet- meats, but this is not usual, and is looked down upon by "the
trade."
"I am a general dealer," said one of the latter
class; "my missis is in the same line as myself, and sells everything that
I do (barring greenstuff). She follows me always in what I sell. She has a
stall, and sits at the corner of the street. I have got three children. The
eldest is ten, and goes out with me to call my goods for me. I have had an
inflammation in the lungs, and when I call my goods for a little while my voice
leaves me. My missis is lame. She fell down a cellar, when a child, and injured
her hip. Last October twelve- month I was laid up with cold, which settled on my
lungs, and kept to my bed for a month. My missis kept me all this time. She was
'working' fresh herrings; and if it hadn't been for her we must have gone into
the workhouse. We are doing very badly now. I have no work to do. I have no
stock-money to work with, and I object to pay 1s. 6d. a week for the loan of
10s. Once I gave a man 1s. 6d. a week for ten months for the loan of 10s., and
that nearly did me up. I have had 8s. of the same party since, and paid 1s. a
week for eight weeks for the loan of it. I consider it most extortionate to have
to pay 2d. a day for the loan of 8s., and won't do it. When the season gets a
bit better I shall borrow a shilling of one friend and a shilling of another,
and then muddle on with as much stock-money as I can scrape together. My missis
is at home now, doing nothing. Last week it's impossible to say what she took,
for we're obliged to buy victuals and firing with it as we take it. She can't go
out charing on account of her hip. When she is out, and I am out, the children
play about in the streets. Only last Saturday week she was obligated to take the
shoes off her feet to get the children some victuals. We owe two weeks' rent,
and the landlord, though I've lived in the house five years, is as sharp as if I
was a stranger.
The "pea-soup," and "hot
eels," and pickled whelk dealers are
another class of the street provision merchants. In the warm weather they deal
only in "hot eels," for then the soup will not sell. These dealers are
stationary, having stalls or stands in the street. They seldom move about, but
generally frequent the same place. A celebrated dealer in this class of street
provisions has a stand in Clare-street, Clare-market, opposite the cat's-meat
shop - and this man has been heard to boast that he wouldn't soil his hands at
the business if he didn't get his 30s. a day, and his £2 10s. of a Saturday.
Half this amount is considered to be about the truth. This person has mostly all
the trade for hot eels that there is in the Clare-market district. The other
dealers in the same district do but very little. There is another "hot
eel" purveyor, who stands up at the end of Windmill-street, in
Tottenham-court-road, that does a very good trade. It is thought that he makes
about 5s. a day at the business, and about 10s. on Saturday. There is
another man that comes out about five o'clock every afternoon, and stands in the
New-cut, nearly opposite the Victoria Theatre. He has two or three lamps with
"hot eels" painted upon them, and a handsome stall. He is considered
to make about 7s. a day by the sale of eels alone, but he deals in fried fish
and pickled whelks as well, and often he has a pile of fried fish a foot high.
But the dealer in Clare-market does the largest trade of all in the hot eel
line. He is the head man. On one Saturday he was known to sell 100 lbs. of eels,
and on most Saturdays he will get rid of his four "draughts" of eels
(a draught being 20 lbs.). These are principally eaten at the stall, and there
is generally a large crowd gathered round his stall. He and his son are dressed
in Jenny Lind hats, bound with blue velvet, and both dispense the provisions,
while the daughter attends to wash up the cups. "On a Sunday,
anybody," said my informant, "would think him the first nobleman or
squire in the land, to see him dressed in his white hat, with black crape round
it, and his drab paletot and mother-o'-pearl buttons and black kid gloves, with
the fingers too long for him. The eels and whelks are all purchased at
Billingsgate. They are purchased early in the morning, about six or seven
o'clock. The parties themselves, or their sons or daughters, go down to
Billingsgate for the eels, and the watermen there row them to the Dutch vessels
moored off the market. The fare paid to the watermen is 1d. for every 10 lbs.
purchased and brought back in the boat, the passenger being gratis. The dealers
generally trade on their own capital. But when some have been having "a
flare up," and broke down for stock - to use the words of my informant -
they go and borrow £1, and pay it back in a week or a fortnight at the outside,
and give 2s. for the loan of it. The money is usually borrowed of the barrow,
truck, and basket lenders. The amount of capital required for carrying on the
business depends on the trade done. Even in a small way the utensils for the
business would cost £1. These utensils consist of one fish-kettle and one
soup-kettle, holding upon an average three gallons each; besides these, five
basins and five cups and ten spoons would be required. Then there is a washhand
basin to wash the cups and basins and spoons in. and there is also a board and
trestle on which the whole stand. In a large way it would require from £3 to £4
to fit up a handsome stall. For this the party would have "two fine
kettles," holding about four gallons each, and two patent cast-iron
fireplaces (the £1 outfit only admits of the bottoms of two tin saucepans being
used as fireplaces, in which charcoal is always burning to keep the eels and
soup hot; the whelks are always eaten cold). The crockery and spoons would be in
no way superior. A small dealer requires, over and above this sum, 10s. to go to
market with and purchase stock, and the large dealer would require about 30s.
The class of persons belonging to the business have either been bred to it, or
taken to it through being out of work. Some have been disabled during their
work, and have resorted to it to save themselves from the workhouse. The price
of the hot eels are five or seven pieces and three parts of a cup-full of liquor
for a halfpenny. The charge for a half- pint of pea-soup is a halfpenny, and the
whelks are sold, according to the size, from ½d. each to three or four for the
same sum. These are put out in saucers. The hot eels consist of Dutch eels,
cleaned and washed, and cut in small pieces of about an inch each. [The daughter
of my informant was busily engaged at a blood-stained board, with a pile of
pieces on one side and a heap of entrails on the other.] They are then boiled,
and the liquor is thickened with flour and flavoured with chopped parsley. This
is kept hot in the streets, and is served out in halfpenny cup-fulls, with a
small quantity of vinegar and pepper. To dress a draught of eels it will take
three hours to clean and cut them up and cook them, and the cost will be 5s. 2d.
for the draught of eels (the 2d. being the expense of "shoring "), 8d.
for 4 lbs. of flour to thicken the liquor, 2d. for the parsley to flavour it,
and 1s. 6d. for the vinegar and pepper (about three quarts of vinegar and two
ounces of pepper will be used). This quantity of eels, when dressed and
seasoned, will fetch in halfpennyworths about 15s. The profit upon this would be
from 5s. to 5s. 6d.; but the cost of the charcoal has to be deducted from this,
as well as the salt used while cooking. These two come to about 5d.; so
that the clear gain upon selling a draught of twenty pounds of eels is from 4s.
6d. to 5s. The pea-soup consists of split peas, carrots, celery, and beef
bones. Five pints, at 3½d., are used to every three gallons, two pennyworth of
bones, ld. of carrots, and ½d. of celery - these cost 1s. 0½d.; and the
pepper, salt, and mint, to season it, costs about 2d. This, when served in
halfpenny basin-fulls, will fetch from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 4d., leaving 1s. ld.
profit. But from this the expenses of cooking must be taken; so that the clear
gain upon three gallons of this article comes to about 11d. In a large trade,
three kettles, or twelve gallons, of pea-soup will be disposed of in the day,
and about four draughts, or 80 lbs., of hot eels on every day but Saturday, when
the quantity of eels disposed of would be about five draughts, or 100 lbs.
weight, and about fifteen gallons of pea-soup on a Saturday. The profits per
draught on the eels is 5s., which would give £1 a day for
the profit on the hot eels for five days, and £1 5s. on Saturdays; and
upon the pea-soup the profit would be about 3s. 8d. for the first five days of
the week, and about 4s. 7d. for Saturdays. Hence the profits of a good business
in the hot eel and pea-soup line will be from £7 to £7 10s. per week. But
there is no man in London does this amount of business, or makes this amount of
money at it, but one. A small business will do about 15 lbs. of eels in the
week, including Saturday, and about 12 gallons of soup, which will give from 7s.
to 7s. 6d. a week clear. Sometimes credit is given for a halfpennyworth, or a
penny-worth, at the outside; but very little is lost from bad debts. Some of the
boys who are partaking of the articles will occasionally say to the proprietor
of the stall, "Well, master, they are very nice; trust us another
halfpennyworth, and I'll pay you when I comes again;" but they are seldom
credited, for they know well they would never see them again. Very often the
stock cooked is not disposed of, and then it is brought home and eaten by the
family. The pea-soup will seldom keep a night, but what is left the family
generally use for supper.
The dealers generally go out about half-past ten o'clock in
the morning, and stop out till about ten at night, and on Saturdays till twelve.
Saturday is the best day of all, and Monday the next best to that. The
generality of the customers are boys from 12 to 16 years of age. Newsboys are
very partial to hot eels - women prefer the pea-soup; and on Saturdays and
Mondays people are generally "flush of money." Some of the boys will
have as many as six halfpenny cups-full consecutively on a Saturday night; and
some women will have three halfpenny basins-full of pea-soup. Many persons in
the cold weather prefer the hot soup to beer. On wet, raw, chilly days, the
pea-soup goes off better than usual, and in fine weather there is a greater
demand for the hot eels. One dealer assures me that he once did serve two
gentlemen's servants with twenty-eight halfpenny cup-fulls of hot eels one after
another. One servant had sixteen, and the other twelve cup-fulls, which they ate
all at one standing; and one of these was so partial to hot eels, that he used
to come twice a day every day for six months after that, and have eight cup-fulls
each day, four at noon and four in the evening. These two persons were the best
customers the party ever had. Servants are not generally partial to the
commodity. Hot eels are not usually taken for dinner, nor is the peasoup, but
throughout the whole day, just as the fancy of the passersby may take them.
There are no shops for the sale of these articles. The dealers never keep any
accounts of what their receipts and expenditure are. The best time of the year
for the hot eels is from the middle of June to the latter end of August. On some
days during that time a person in a small way of business will receive upon an
average 1s. 6d. a day, on other days 1s.; on some days, during the month of
August, as much as 2s. 6d. a day. Some persons cry out "Nice hot eels -
nice hot eels!" as the people are passing; but the general rule is to be
silent, and merely expose the articles for sale. They pay nothing for the right
of standing where they do. They get permission from the housekeepers in front of
whose door they fix their stalls, and then they claim a right during the
housekeepers' pleasure; that is to say, they will not allow any other
stall-keeper to take their place. There are a great many persons in the trade -
almost more than can get a living at it. The earnings of the dealers are less
now than they were formerly. One party attributes this to the opening of a
couple of penny-pie shops in his neighbourhood. Before then he could get 2s. 6d.
a day clear, take one day with another; but since they have begun business in
the penny-pie line he cannot take above 1s. 6d. a day clear. On the day the
first of these pie-shops opened it made as much as 10 lbs., or half a draught of
eels, difference to him. There was a band of music and an illumination at the
pie-shop, and it was impossible to stand against that. The fashionable dress of
the trade is the "Jenny Lind" or "wide-awake" hat, with a
broad black ribbon tied round it, and a white apron and sleeves. They usually go
to Hampton-court or Greenwich on a Sunday. They are partial to the pit of
Astley's. Indeed, one was heard telling the waterman at Billingsgate the other
morning that "he and his good lady had been werry amused with the osses at
Hashley's last night."
"I was a coalheaver," said one of the above class
to me, as I sat in his attic up a close court, watching his wife "thicken
the liquor;" "I was going along the plank, from one barge to another,
when the swell of some steamers throwed the plank off the 'horse,' and chucked
me down, and broke my knee agin the side of the barge. Before that I was earning
upon an average my 20s. to 30s. a week. I was seven months and four days in
King's College Hospital after this. I found they was doing me no good there, so
I come out and went over to Bartholemy's Hospital. I was in there nineteen
months altogether, and after that I was a month in Middlesex Hospital, and all
on 'em turned me out oncurable. You see, the bone's decayed - four bits of bone
have been taken from it. The doctor turned me out three times cause I wouldn't
have it off. He asked my wife if she would give consent, but neither she nor my
daughter would listen to it, so I was turned out on 'em all. How my family lived
all this time it is hard to tell. My eldest boy did a little - got 3s. 6d. a
week as an errand boy, and my daughter was in service, and did a little for me;
but that was all we had to live upon. There was six children on my hands, and
however they did manage I can't say. After I came out of the hospital I
applied to the parish, and I was allowed 2s. 6d. a week and four loaves. But I
was anxious to do something, so a master butcher, as I knowed, said he would get
me a 'pitch' (i.e., the right to fix a stall), if I thought I could sit
at a stall and sell a few things. I told him I thought I could, and would be
very thankful for it. Well, I had heard how the man up in the market was making
a fortune at the hot-eel and pea-soup line. (A paviour as left his barrow and
two shovels with me told me today, said the man, by way of parenthesis - 'that
he knowed for a fact he was clearing £6 a week regular.'] So I thought I'd have
a touch at the same thing. But you see, I never could rise money enough to get
sufficient stock to make a do of it, and never shall, I expect - it don't seem
like it, however. I ought to have 5s. to go to market with tomorrow, and
I ain't got above 1s. 6d.; and what's that for stock-money, I'd like to know?
Well, as I was saying, the master butcher lent me 10s. to start in the line. He
was the best friend I ever had. But I've never been able to do anything at it -
not to say to get a living." "He can't carry anything now, sir,"
said his wife, as the old man strove to get the bellows to warm up the large
kettle of pea-soup that was on the fire. "Aye, I can't go without my
crutch. My daughter goes to Billingsgate for me. I've got nobody else; and she
cuts up the eels. If it wasn't for her I must give it up altogether, and go into
the workhouse outright. I couldn't fetch 'em. I ought to have been out tonight
by rights till ten o'clock, if I'd had anything to have sold. My wife can't do
much; she's troubled with the rheumatics in her head and limbs. "Yes,"
said the old body, with a sigh, "I'm never well, and never shall be again,
I know." "Would you accept on a drop of soup, sir?" asked the
man; "you're very welcome, I can assure you. You'll find it very good,
sir." I told him I had just dined, and the poor old fellow proceeded with
his tale. "Last week I earned clear about 8s., and that's to keep six on
us. I didn't pay no rent last week nor yet this, and I don't know when I shall
again, if things goes on in this way. The week before there was a fast-day, and
I didn't earn above 6s. that week, if I did that. My boy can't go to school.
He's got no shoes nor nothing to go in. The girls go to the ragged school, but
we can't send them of a Sunday nowhere." "Other people can go,"
said one of the young girls nestling round the fire, and with a piece of sacking
over her shoulders for a shawl - "them as has got things to go in; but
mother don't like to let us go as we are." "She slips her mother's
shoes on when she goes out. It would take £1 to start me well. With that I
could go to market, and buy my draught of eels a shilling cheaper, and I could
afford to cut my pieces a little bigger; and people where they gets used well
comes again - don't you see? I could have sold more eels if I'd had 'em today,
and soup too. Why, there's four hours of about the best time tonight that I'm
losing now cause I've nothing to sell. The man in the market can give more than
we can. He gives what is called the lumping ha'p'orth - that is, seven or eight
pieces; ah, that I dare say he does; indeed, some of the boys has told me he
gives as many as eight pieces. And then the more eels you biles up, you see, the
richer the liquor is, and in our little tin-pot way it's like biling up a great
jint of meat in a hocean of water. In course we can't compete agin the man in
the market, and so we're being ruined entirely. The boys very often comes and
asks me if I've got a farden's-worth of heads. The woman at Broadway, they tells
me, sells 'em at four a farden and a drop of liquor, but we chucks 'em away,
there's nothing to eat on them; but the boys will eat anything."