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Victorian London - Publications - Social Investigation/Journalism - The Morning Chronicle : Labour and the Poor, 1849-50; Henry Mayhew - Letter XVIII
LETTER XVIII
Tuesday, December 18, 1849
Of the 21,000 journeymen tailors at work in the metropolis
there were, in the year 1844, 3,697 employed on the premises of the masters in
the "honourable" trade at the West-end of London, and 2,348 working
out of doors at the "dishonourable show and slop trade. Hence there were
6,081 journeymen tailors engaged at the West-end, and about 15,000 employed
at the East-end of the metropolis. In the East there are upwards of 80 slop and
show shops, many employing from 200 to 300 hands. There were in 1844 only 72
masters in the West who had all the work made on their premises; besides these,
there were 270 masters who had only part of their work made in-doors, and 112
who had none at all done at home. Hence the West-end branch of the business
consisted principally of 454 masters, of whom less than one-sixth belonged to
what is called the "honourable" part of the trade. Since then, I am
assured by one who has long made the business his peculiar study, that the 72
honourable masters have declined at least to 60, while the 172 dishonourable
ones have been more than doubled. The men employed in-doors have decreased from
3,600 to less than 3,000, and those employed out of doors have increased from
2,300 to more than 4,000. Hence the honourable part of the trade is declining at
the rate of 150 men per year; so that in 20 years at least the whole business
will have merged in the show and slop shops; and the wages of the men have
fallen from 18s. a week - which I find is the average of the honourable part of
the trade to 11s., the average of the slop trade.
The aggregate earnings of the 3,000 men now employed at the
honourable part of the trade are £2,700 a week, or £140,000 a year. and the
earnings of the 18,000 men working at the show and slop trade £9,900 a week, or
£514,800 a year. Hence, as a body. the wages of the metropolitan tailors amount
to £655,200 a year. But, according to the rate of decrease before mentioned, in
twenty years the honourable part of the trade will have entirely disappeared,
and the wages of the whole 21,000 journeymen will have declined to 11s.
According to this estimate the workmen generally will, at the expiration of that
time, suffer an annual loss of £54,600; that is, they will receive upwards of
£50,000 less for their year's work than they do now. By the same calculation I
find that they are collectively receiving every year £3,000 less wages than
they did the year before.
In the year 1844 there were at the West-end 676 men, women.
and children working under "sweaters", and occupying ninety-two small
rooms, measuring 8 feet by 10, which upon an average was more than seven persons
to each apartment. This number of individuals was composed of 179 men, 85 women,
45 boys, 78 girls, and 256 children - the latter being members of the sweaters'
family. I am assured that these numbers have at least been doubled in the last
five years, and that the number of boys, girls. and women introduced into the
trade by the sweaters since the year 1844 is certainly three times as many as it
was then. The number of individuals who made a practice of working on the
Sunday, at the time the investigation was made, was 852; this, I am informed,
has considerably increased. The better class of artisans denounce the system of
Sunday working as the most iniquitous of all the impositions on the honourable
part of the trade. They object to it, not only on moral and religious grounds,
but economically also. "Every 600 men employed on the Sabbath," they
say, "deprive 100 individuals of a week's work; every six men who labour
seven days in the week must necessarily throw one other man out of employ for a
whole week. The seventh man is deprived of his fair share of work by the
overtoiling of the other six." This Sunday working, I am told, is a
necessary consequence of the cheap slop trade. The workmen cannot keep their
families by their six days' labour; and therefore they not only under that
system, get less wages and do more work, but by their extra labour they throw so
many more hands out of employ.
Of the system of "sweating," the report of the
operative tailors in 1844 furnishes the following information, which my recent
investigations enable me fully to corroborate: -
"Many of the families (consisting of six or seven persons in many cases) are, from their scanty incomes, obliged to live in one room of small dimensions, and when illness attacks any one of its members. whatever be its nature, whether highly contagious or otherwise, no separation from the remainder of the family takes place, but the latter employ themselves as usual in this vitiated atmosphere, exposed frequently to the accumulated influence of contagion, insufficient diet and constant sedentary work, during sixteen out of the twenty-four hours.
There can be little doubt that woollen clothes remaining for days together in such apartments, and sometimes in contact with the parties labouring under the effects of smallpox, scarlet fever, and other highly contagious diseases, will very likely prove a source from which such contagion may be propagated in the families of those to whom these woollens may be sent. Mr. French, a medical gentleman, states that he has seen a garment (which was a few hours afterwards to be forwarded to a person of rank, serving at the time of his visit as a covering to an individual suffering from small-pox."
On last Friday evening a very numerous
meeting was held at the Hanover-square Rooms, in order to arrive at statistical
results concerning the earnings of the working tailors of the West-end. As many
as 2,000 attended, and the respectable appearance of the operatives formed a
striking contrast to those who had been present at the meeting at Shadwell.
MEETING, HANOVER-SQUARE ROOMS, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14.- The
proceedings were commenced by the Metropolitan Correspondent of The Morning
Chronicle, who explained that the operative tailors had been called together
for the purpose of collecting certain information in connection with their
trade. The object of the meeting was to obtain an estimate of the earnings of
the working classes. There was no other end in view but to ascertain the truth:
and the instructions he had received were to search out the fact wheresoever
they might lead. In the first place it was desirable to have a history of prices
in the trade, and then to follow out the depression and its causes. Besides a
history of prices, he wishes to ascertain how many tailors laboured singlehanded
twenty years ago; whether the change in prices since that period had forced them
to employ their wives and families in order to make out a living; and whether
prices had been affected by so many extra needlewomen being introduced into the
market? With regard to the slop trade, he found, from an inquiry instituted
among the operative tailors by their own body, that in the year 1845 there were
72 masters who had all their work done upon their own premises, and that they
employed 998 men at the rate of 6s. per day. There were also 270 masters who had
only a portion of their work done upon their own premises, and they employed
1,310 men out of doors at scanty and unremunerating prices. Of these 270 there
were 112 who had no work done upon their own premises. At that period there were
employed within doors altogether 3,697 individuals, and 2,384 out of doors. Now,
it was desirable to ascertain how far these numbers had changed since
information which would prove whether or not the slop trade had been gaining
ground. If, for example, the number of persons employed in-doors had decreased
from 3,600, say, to 2,000, whilst the number employed out of doors had increased
from 2,300 to 3,400, the operative tailors might perceive what would be the
result in a few years. According to the same authority there were 643 persons
employed in sweaters' rooms, occupying 98 small rooms and 33 larger. The total
number working upon the Sunday was 389. Now, he should like to know how far
these numbers had increased, and to what cause the increase was owing. With
reference to another part of the subject - the sufferings and privations endured
by the workpeople through the low price paid for their labour - they should
contrast their present with their past condition. He wished to discover whether
their comforts had increased with the decreased price of provisions. If wages
fell faster than provisions, it was very clear the working classes must
ultimately lapse into pauperism. If they fell at the same rate, and from the
same causes, then no benefit had resulted from the recent change; whereas if the
price of labour had no connection with the price of food, then it was evident
that if wages had gone down, and provisions had remained at the same price, the
working classes must have starved outright. It was for the meeting to state what
were the facts; and whilst asking them to make known their experience in
connection with this subject, they must understand that he did not himself
express any opinion, one way or the other - his only object being to collect the
facts from their own lips. He further wished to know how much longer they were
obliged to work now, and how many more hands they were obliged to employ, in
order to gain the same amount of money and obtain the same comforts as they
formerly earned and enjoyed. But the most important aim of the meeting was to
discover whether the low prices arose from competition among the masters, or
from competition amongst the workpeople. To arrive at this knowledge, it would
be necessary, first, to ascertain whether the number of hands among the
operative tailors had been stationary; also, whether a certain amount of
extraneous labour had not been introduced into the craft; also, provided such
extraneous labour had been introduced, would the number of hands have been
sufficient to perform the amount of work to be done? Had female labour, Irish
labour, and foreign labour been introduced or imported for the sake of
cheapness, and so undersold the regular artisan? Had the trade suffered from
being overstocked by its own hands, or from the addition of such labour as would
not, by the mere increase of population, have been introduced into it? It was
for them to bring out the facts. He also wished to know whether, in their
opinion, the emigration of the working classes would be sufficient to alter the
depression of wages? He desired to consult the operatives themselves upon these
important questions. He offered no opinion himself; but he wanted theirs, and
the facts on which they founded it.
A WORKING TAILOR then came forward, and said he would take a
brief review of the condition of the trade so long as he had known it, and
endeavour to point out the progress and causes of its downfall. It had been his
misfortune, during a period of twenty- five years, to see, not only a downward
motion in the trade as regarded prices, but a very material increase in the
amount of labour, and a diminution of the chances of obtaining work. The tailors
of the metropolis had never hitherto had the opportunity of making their
circumstances clearly known to the public. The public hitherto had never had the
means of fairly testing their ignorance or their intelligence; and he complained
that, whenever they had expressed their dissatisfaction, they had been set down
as ignorant beings, who could not comprehend their position or the benefits
which they were said to enjoy. Certainly, within his time, the means of making
the working classes happy had increased in the country; but in the proportion of
that increase had the tailors, as a class, become miserable. Various causes had
conspired to enslave them - for he could describe their condition by no other
term. In the year 1825, he recollected the trade discovering an evil just
creeping in, which, even then, threatened destruction, if not checked. A desire
was then evinced on the part of some masters to get work done off their
premises, and they commenced by giving out the light trade, such as
waistcoat-making. The trade foresaw this would lead to great evil, and in 1825
they made an attempt to stop it. Every house in London that employed men upon
their own premises were told that, unless they would undertake not to give out
waistcoats to women, the men would not work for them. The answer given in almost
every instance was that they would not; but they did not maintain the honour of
their word. They still gave out work to women at home. At that time, having come
from the country, he obtained 6s. a day, as certain as he went to work, and he
was able to maintain his family in comfort and respectability. But this system
was afterwards materially departed from by the men themselves. After they found
that there was a great number of women who could be useful in the trade, that
the husband, by his wife and daughters becoming waistcoat-makers, could make
somewhat more money than he could in the shop, they left the shop. That was a
fault upon the part of the men, for he thought they were bound to acknowledge
their own faults when they pointed out those of the masters. During this time
the "show shops" were progressing; but they were not considered
respectable. These shops, it must be understood always, from the first, gave out
their work to be done at home, because they discovered they could get it done
cheaper, as women were employed, than by having men at work upon their own
premises. Then some of the more respectable portions of the trade began to
imagine that they might put a trifle into their pockets by commencing the same
system. Thus the system was established, and, sooner or later, all must go into
the same channel. They had already discovered, by the experience of the
East-end, that there was no stopping point but one which was equal to starving
them out of existence. Abundant evidence had been given, and indeed they all
knew it, of the fact that men earning only half-a-crown a day, by fifteen or
sixteen hours' hard work, were reduced even from that. This was a fair
expression of what competition would do for the whole class, unless it was
guarded by some well-understood principle between the employers and the
employed. The Government of the country had really been the means of reducing
prices in the tailoring trade to so low a scale that no human being, whatever
his industry, could live and be happy in his lot. The Government were really
responsible for the first introduction of female labour. He would clearly prove
what he had stated. He would refer first to the army clothing. Our soldiers were
comfortably clothed, as they had a right to be; but surely the men who made the
clothing which was so comfortable, ought to be paid for their labour so as to be
able to keep themselves comfortable and their families virtuous. But it was in
evidence that the persons working upon army clothing could not, upon an average,
earn more than 1s. a day. Another Government department - the Post-office -
afforded a considerable amount of employment to tailors; but those who worked
upon the Post-office clothing earned at the most only 1s. 6d. a day. The police
clothing was another considerable branch of tailoring; this, like the others,
ought to be paid for at living prices; but the men at work at it could only earn
1s. 6d. a day, supposing them to work hard all the time fourteen or fifteen
hours. The Custom-house clothing gave about the same prices. Now, all these
sorts of work were performed by time workers, who, as a natural consequence of
the wages they received, were the most miserable of human beings. Husband, wife,
and family, all worked at it; they just tried to breathe upon it; to live it
never could be called. Yet the same Government, which paid such wretched wages,
called upon these wretched people to be industrious, to be virtuous, and happy.
How was it possible, whatever their industry, to be virtuous and happy? The fact
was, the men who, at a slack season, had been compelled to fall back upon these
kinds of work, became so beggared and broken down by it, notwithstanding the
assistance of their wives and families, that they were never able to rise out of
it. They were obliged to hang on at it, month after month, till their spirits or
their health failed; and the only addition they could possibly expect was the
miserable work they received from the slop-shop. And as to the slop-shop, the
owners and the sweaters who served them cared not what the sufferings of their
workpeople were, so long as they could become rich, and ride in fine carriages
through the City and elsewhere. Was this, he asked, a right system? Was it one
likely to promote the real strength and prosperity of the country? It was clear
that the Government had no idea of what was going on, or they would take some
steps in reference to it. It was a delusion on the part of the middle or any
other class to suppose it was their interest to reduce the wages of the working
man. Recurring to his own trade, he pointed out the evils of the system of
middlemen, or sweaters, and said he had evidence that through it first-rate
workmen for a house, which had establishments both at the West-end and in the
City, had to work 4½ days for 11s. He only hoped they would be able to obtain
the countenance of the employers, and induce them to conduct their business upon
a different principle. It was clear there was no remedy for the unfortunate
condition of the working tailors, save and except in the abolition of home work,
and of the sweating system, and in living prices being paid for Government work.
R. E., also a working tailor, said the progress of the
miserable system by which his fellow-workmen were being destroyed having been
described, he would draw attention to what he conceived to have been its causes,
and to what he considered its remedy. During the last twenty months there had
been, from time to time, meetings of trade delegates in London. Their own trade
was among the number represented. The delegates had gathered a certain amount of
information, by which it was shown that there were, at that time, at least
280,000 mechanics in London. It was ascertained further, that of these 280,000
one-third only were fully employed. one-third were partially employed, and
one-third were entirely unemployed. These facts were stated to the Government,
they were stated to several influential members of both Houses of Parliament;
and the invariable reply was that Government was well disposed to do everything
that was possible for the benefit of the working classes, if they knew how. Such
was the assurance of a very popular nobleman having a seat in the lower house.
Now he would point out at least one respect in which Government might benefit
the working classes. He held in his hand a pamphlet containing statements of the
Admiralty contract prices for navy clothing. The contract system had been mainly
instrumental in destroying the living wages of the working man. Now, the
Government were the sole originators of the system of contracts and of sweating.
Forty years ago there was nothing known of contracts, except Government
contracts; and at that period the contractors were confined to making slops for
the navy, the army, and the West India slaver. It was never dreamt of then that
such a system was to come into operation in the better classes of trade, till
ultimately it was destructive of masters as well as men. The Government having
been the cause of the contract system, and consequently of the sweating system,
he called upon them to abandon it. The sweating system had established the show
shops and the ticket system, both of which were countenanced by the Government.
Even the Court assisted to keep the system in fashion, and the royal arms and
royal warrants were now exhibited common enough by slopsellers. If the royal
arms and royal warrants were used, why, the noble lord was asked, should they
not be permitted to a house like Stultz's, which paid good wages? Would it not
be more worthy of the Court and the Government to appropriate them to such a
house, than bestow them as they were bestowed at the present moment? To this the
noble lord could only reply that if the facts were made known to her Majesty he
was confident that she would not countenance anything of the sort, and that the
system would be put an end to. How, then, to bring the facts before her Majesty?
He could only see one effectual way, namely, to bring popular opinion to bear
upon the Government with all its force. The broad question with regard to
Government and other work was, "Shall the labouring man, after the
employment of all his industry and skill, exist upon less than slaves' wages,
and under worse than slaves' treatment?" Government said, its duty was to
do justice. But was it consistent with justice to pay only 2s. 6d. for making
navy jackets, which would be paid 10s. for by every "honourable"
tradesman? Was it consistent with justice for the Government to pay for Royal
Marine clothing (private's coat and epaulets) 1s. 9d.? Was it consistent with
justice for the Government to pay for making a pair of trousers (four or five
hours' work) only 2½d.? And yet, when a contractor, noted for paying just wages
to those he employed, brought this under the consideration of the Admiralty,
they declared they had nothing to do with it. Here is their answer -
"Admiralty, March 19, 1847.
"Sir-Having laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty sour letter of the 8th inst., calling their attention to the extremely low prices paid for making up articles of clothing, provided for her Majesty's naval service, I am commanded by their lordships to acquaint you, that they have no control whatever over the wages paid for making up contract clothing. Their duty is to take care that the articles supplied are of good quality, and well made: the cost of the material and the workmanship are matters which rest with the contractor; and if the public were to pay him a higher price than that demanded, it would not ensure any advantage to the men employed by him, as their wages depend upon the amount of competition for employment amongst themselves.
I am, sir, your most obedient servant,
"W. Shaw, Esq." "H. G. WARD.
After this, he repeated, he saw no other
means of urging this subject upon the attention of the Court and the Government,
but through the force of public opinion. He regarded emigration as, at best, a
fallacious remedy. Mr. Bright said, at the late dinner in Manchester, that food
was cheaper now than it had been for twelve years, and that wages were higher
than they had been for five years. Did anybody in the meeting believe that
statement [loud cries of "no"]? Now, he would like to take the sense
of the meeting, whether they, as working tailors, were now in a better condition
than before, under the present reduced price of provisions?
This question, which was unexpected, was eventually modified
into this shape: "Do the working men here assembled feel they are much
better off - that their comforts have been greater, and their employment more -
since provisions have been cheaper?"
"No, no," was the answer of at least a thousand
voices.
Another question was asked in these words: "Provided the
laws had not been altered, and the prices of provisions remained as they were,
would you have been worse off than you are now?"
"No," replied some; "yes," others.
At the suggestion of a person in the body of the meeting the
question was thus put: "Are the working men better paid and better employed
now than they were five years ago?"
The meeting instantly replied, "No, no."
Somebody asked why five years were taken, and he wished
twenty-five to be substituted. To please this party the question was once more
modified in these words: "Are the working men better off now and
better paid, than they were twenty-five years ago?"
A unanimous negative was the immediate answer.
On the recommendation of another party this question was also
put: "Are you satisfied, if the laws with regard to provisions had not been
altered, you would have been worse off?"
The answer to this was "Yes;" after which, such
questions being objected to as involving points not directly connected with the
purposes of the meeting, they were discontinued.
- C. also a working tailor, said he would briefly offer his
opinion upon the policy which he thought would for the future guide the trade in
the right direction, and also upon the bad policy which had brought it to its
present condition. It was manifest that the slop trade and the Sweating system
had materially injured the regular and honourable trade. There could be no
question that, for the last thirty years, each succeeding year had been worse
than its predecessor, and that upon an average wages had, in the same period,
been reduced fully one-half. At that period an industrious and efficient workman
could calculate upon an average of 30s. per week the year round; now he was a
fortunate man, indeed, who could say, "I can calculate certainly upon 15s.
the year round." A great majority of the trade, to his certain knowledge,
did not average more than 10s. This state of things had been brought about
partly by competition among the workmen and partly by competition among the
masters; but the workmen had assisted in bringing this result about quite as
much as any combination among the masters could have done. It was futile to
charge upon the masters of 1849 the faults of the masters of 1825. There could
be no doubt that the cause of the sweating system had been the cupidity of the
workmen. The greediness of men, not content with their own earnings, led them to
abandon the places where they were at work, in order to go home and labour
excessive hours. These men employed others, who hung about the houses-of-call or
the streets. Under such a system, he put it to the meeting whether it was not
likely a class of employers would spring up, ready to catch at the offers to do
work which these men made to secure it? The thing, in short, commenced with
themselves; their employers availed themselves of it; and the result was, the
present depressed state of the trade. The evil had long been apparent, both to
masters and men; but a want of unanimity, and perhaps of mutual knowledge, had
caused its continuance. He was satisfied it was the interest of masters to keep
work in the right channel, and to support a fair amount of remuneration to the
working man. But this was a difficult matter. Let the working tailors, then, do
the best they could under the circumstances to extricate themselves and the
masters from the dilemma - to snatch, as it were, the brand out of the fire.
Female labour had also done very much to injure the trade. No other trade
employed their wives and families in the same way or to the same extent. As the
first step towards bringing back things into a right direction, he believed that
the small band of "honourable" men now in union ought to mitigate the
rules which prevented out-door workers from coming among them; and, in the next
place, that they ought to invite employers - show them, indeed, the benefit of
it - to have all their work done upon their premises. If 7,000 or 8,000 of the
trade were bound together for these objects, the moral effect would be very
great. Under all the circumstances, he could see no better way of effecting the
object in view than the practical application of some such idea as he ventured
to throw out.
The question was here put, whether the operative tailors
present thought that if the system of out-door labour was done away with, the
trade generally would be benefited?
The show of hands gave a unanimous answer in the affirmative.
The meeting further intimated in the same way their belief that work being done
upon the masters' premises was the real practical remedy against sweating.
A WORKING TAILOR from the East-end next rose, and stated that
at certain seasons it was a practice among the sweaters to import cheap labour
from Ireland, and from different parts of the Continent, so that emigration
would be of no practical benefit, because whatever numbers were taken away would
soon be replaced by immigration. He mentioned a number of shops, both at the
east and west ends, whose work was all taken by sweaters; and several of these
shops were under royal and noble patronage. There was one notorious sweater who
kept his carriage. He was a Jew, and of course he gave a preference to his own
sect. Thus another Jew received it from him second-rate, then it went on to a
third - till it came to the unfortunate Christian, at perhaps the eighth rate,
and he performed the work at barely living prices; this same Jew required a
deposit of £5 in money before he would give out a single garment to be made. He
need not describe the misery which this system entailed upon the workmen. It was
well known; but it was almost impossible, except for those who had been at the
two, to form an idea of the difference between the present meeting and one at
the East-end, where all who attended worked for slop-shops and sweaters. The
present was a highly respectable assembly, the other presented no other
appearance but those of misery and degradation.
A WORKING TAILOR, an Irishman from the county of Kerry, who
was introduced by the last speaker, gave rather a humorous account of how he had
been "kidnapped" by a sweater's wife into coming to London. He added
he was a slave rather than a working man, for he made coats worth from £2 to £3
each for half-a-crown each, and he worked sixteen hours every day. He had not
been out for between five and six weeks, because he had no clothes, but being
determined to attend the meeting, he had got the loan of the coat he had
on. He mentioned the name and address of the party who had "kidnapped"
him, and said he knew many of his countrymen now in London who had been brought
over under similar pretences to himself - good wages, plenty of diet, full
employment; not one of which promises had been kept.
Several other persons testified to the introduction of cheap
Irish and foreign labour.
A person in the crowd said there was a system prevailing in
some of the shops at the West-end, which was the meanest he had yet heard of.
The foremen in those establishments received first-rate wages; still, under the
cover of teaching cutting, they got parties from the country who paid them £5,
and who were invariably introduced into the shops as working tailors. And if it
were a slack season, a regular hand, though a better tailor, and a married man,
would be dispensed with before the new hand so introduced.
Other workmen intimated that they could confirm the statement
as to the existence of such a practice. The payment of the £5 was called a
"penalty" to get work.
Many other statements were made, which occupied the meeting
till a late hour. Before the close their opinion, as practical working men, was
taken upon the following questions: -
1. Are you of opinion that emigration will serve you, or not?
The answer was "no."
2. Do you believe that the surplus needlewomen in the
metropolis, taking them at 11,000 odd, whose wages are below subsistence point,
are the daughters and wives of working men, and that they are forced into the
labour market owing to the working man being unable to live upon the wages he
now earns?
The answer was "yes."
3. And consequently that the working men's wives and
daughters are obliged to go into the labour market, and compete with their own
fathers and husbands?
"Yes, quite true," were the replies.
4. Then the surplus needlewomen of the metropolis may
generally be expressed as the wives and daughters of the working man, whom he is
unable to maintain?
The answer to this was also in the affirmative; and, like the
others, perfectly unanimous.
The proceedings thereupon terminated.
The statistical results of the meeting were as follows:
-
Returns of the earnings were obtained from 434 operative
tailors. Of these 152 were coat hands, who could earn £298 0s. 9d. by working
1,029 days 8 hours, which is at the rate of 5¾d. per hour. According to the
returns of those engaged at the dishonourable part of the trade, the coat hands
for the slop-shops could earn only at the rate of 2d. per hour. 97 were trousers
hands, and they could earn £14 0s. 9d. in 48 days and 10 hours, being at the
rate of 5¾d. per hour. At the slop trade, according to the return of 12 hands,
the average rate of earnings was 1¼d. per hour.
The aggregate earnings last week of the 434 hands working at
the honourable trade was £461 12s. 2½d
The amount that they had in pawn was £310 13s 6d.
The average rate of earnings of each of the hands last week
was £1 1s 3½d.
And the average rate of weekly earnings throughout the year
£0 18s. 9½d.
There were 104 hands who earned above £1 a week, 229 who got more
than 15s., 79 who made above 10s., and 22 whose earnings exceeded 5s. per week.
Since the above meeting I have devoted my attention to the
investigation of the West-end show trade. I have also made further inquiries
into the system adopted for the introduction of cheap Irish and foreign labour.
I will first proceed to give the reader a more perfect idea
than I have yet been able to do of the principle of sweating. I first sought out
a sweater himself, from whom I obtained the following information:-
"I make the best coats, and get 16s. for frock and
dress. They take me three days each to do. I have to find my own trimmings, and
basting up is included likewise. I use one lamp for my own work; my missus has a
candle to herself. The lamp costs me about 1s. 9d. a week, and the extra fire
for heating my irons about 1s. per week. The expenses of trimmings for two coats
will be about 1s. 6d., which come altogether to 4s. 3d., and this has to be
deducted from 32s., leaving 27s. 9d. clear for my own weekly earnings. This is
more than the generality of people can make. I make this amount of money weekly
upon an average all the year round. I can do thus much by my own single hand. I
employ persons to work under me - that is, I get the work, and give it to them
to do. I generally have two men working at home with me. I take a third of the
coat, and I give them each a third to do. They board and lodge with me
altogether - that is, they have their dinners, teas, breakfasts, and beds in my
place. I give them at the rate of 15s. a coat - that is, I take Is. off the
price I receive for the trimmings and my trouble. The trimmings come to 9d., and
the extra 3d. is the profit for my trouble. They pay me at the rate of 2s. 6d.
per week for washing and lodging-the washing would be about 6d. out of the
money. They both sleep in one bed. Their breakfasts I charge 4d. each for - if
"with a relish" they are 5d. Their teas are 4d., and their dinners are
6d.; altogether I charge them for their food about 8s. 2d., a week, and this,
with lodging and washing, comes to from 16s. 6d. to 11s. per week. The three of
us working together can make six coats in the week, if fully employed - on an
average we make from four to five coats, and never less than four. This would
bring us in altogether, for four coats, £3 4s. Out of this, the shares of each
of my two men would be £1. The rest I should deduct for expenses. Then their
living would be from about 10s. 6d., so that they would get clear 9s. 6d. per
week over and above their living. I pay 7s. 6d. a week rent. I have two rooms,
and the men sleep in the work room. I get every week for the four of us (that
is, for myself, my missus, and the two men-we live all together) about four or
five ounces of tea, and this costs me 1s. 5d. I have 1s. worth of coffee, and
about 1s. 6d. worth of sugar. The bread is 3s. 6d. per week, and butter 2s. 11d.
The meat comes to about 8s., and the vegetables 2s. 4d. The lighting will be 1s.
9d., firing 1s. 6d. This will come to 30s. for the board and lodging of the four
of us, or at the rate of 7s. 6d. per head. I should therefore clear out of the
living of my men about 3s. a week each, and out of their work about 8d., so that
altogether I get 3s. 8d. a week out of each man I employ. This, I believe, is a
fair statement. I wish other people dealt with the men as decently as I do. I
know there are many who are living entirely upon them. Some employ as many as
fourteen men. I myself worked in the house of a man who did this. The chief part
of us lived and worked and slept together in two rooms, on the second floor.
They charged 2s. 6d. per head for the lodging alone. Twelve of the workmen, I am
sure, lodged in the house, and these paid altogether 30s. a week rent to the
sweater. I should think the sweater paid 8s. a week for the rooms - so that he
gained at least 22s. clear, out of the lodging of these men, and stood at no
rent himself. For the living of the men he charged 5d. for breakfasts, and the
same for teas, and 8d. for dinner, or at the rate of 10s. 6d. each per head.
Taking one with the other, and considering the manner in which they lived, I am
certain that the cost for keeping each of them could not have been more than 5s.
This would leave 5s. 6d. clear profit on the board of each of the
twelve men, or altogether £3 6s. per week; and this, added to the £1 2s.
profit on the rent, would give £4 8s. for the sweater's gross profit on
the board and lodging of the workmen in his place. But, besides this, he got 1s.
out of each coat made on his premises, and there were twenty-one coats made
there upon an average every week; so that altogether the sweater's clear gains
out of the men were £5 9s. every week. Each man made about a coat-and-a-half in
the course of the seven days (for they all worked on a Sunday- they were
generally told to 'borrow a day of the Lord'). For this coat-and-a-half each
hand got £1 2s. 6d., and out of it he had to pay 13s. for board and lodging; so
that there was 9s. 6d. clear left. These are the profits of the sweater, and the
earnings of the men engaged under him, when working for the first-rate houses.
But many of the cheap houses pay as low as 8s. for the making of each dress and
frock coat, and some of them as low as 6s. Hence the earnings of the men at such
work would be from 9s. to 12s. per week and the cost of their board and lodging,
without dinners- for these they seldom have-would be from 7s. 6d. to 8s. per
week. Indeed, the men working under sweaters at such prices generally consider
themselves well off if they have a shilling or two in their pocket for Sunday.
The profits of the sweater, however, would be from £4 to £5 out of twelve men
working on his premises. The usual number of men working under each sweater is
about six individuals: and the average rate of profit about £2 10s., without
the sweater doing any work himself. It is very often the case that a man working
under a sweater is obliged to pawn his own coat to get any pocket-money that he
may require. Over and over again the sweater makes out that he is in his debt
from 1s. to 2s. at the end of the week, and when the man's coat is in pledge he
is compelled to remain imprisoned in the sweater's lodgings for months together.
In some sweating places there is an old coat kept, called a 'reliever,' and this
is borrowed by such men as have none of their own to go out in. There are very
few of the sweaters' men who have a coat to their backs or a shoe to their feet
to come out into the streets on Sunday. Down about Fulwood's-rents, Holborn. I
am sure I would not give 6d. for the clothes that are on a dozen of them; and it
is surprising to me, working and living together in such numbers and in such
small close rooms, in narrow, close back courts as they do, that they are not
all swept off by some pestilence. I myself have seen half-a-dozen men at work in
a room that was a little better than a bedstead long. It was as much as one
could do to move between the wall and the bedstead when it was down. There were
two bedsteads in this room, and they nearly filled the place when they were
down. The ceiling was so low that I couldn't stand upright in the room. There
was no ventilation in the place. There was no fireplace, and only a small
window. When the window was open you could nearly touch the houses at the back,
and if the room had not been at the top of the house the men could not have seen
at all in the place. The staircase was so narrow, steep, and dark, that it was
difficult to grope your way to the top of the house - it was like going up a
steeple. This is the usual kind of place in which the sweater's men are lodged.
The reason why there are so many Irishmen working for the sweaters is, because
they are seduced over to this country by the prospect of high wages and plenty
of work. They are brought over by the Cork boats at 10s. a-head, and when they
once get here the prices they receive are so small that they are unable to go
back. In less than a week after they get here their clothes are all pledged, and
they are obliged to continue working under the sweaters.
After this I made the best of my way to one who was working
under a sweater, and who was anxious, I was told, to expose the iniquities of
the whole system. He said:-
"I work for a sweater. I have been working for such
people off and on for this last eight or nine years. I 'belonged to society'
before that, and worked for the most honourable masters at this end of the town.
I worked in the master's shop, of course. I never did day work, but I had piece
work to do. I preferred that. I was a very quick hand, and could make more money
that way. At day work I should have got £1 16s. a week, but at piece work I
have occasionally made 36s. in four days, but these four days were at the latter
end of the week. Upon an average I could get about 38s. a week in the brisk
time, which was about two months in the year. I was always employed at that
time, unless it was my own fault. During the vacation, or slack, I used often to
be for many months and not earn a shilling at all. I used to hang about the
houses of call then, waiting for a job, which came in about one day a week
throughout the rest of the year, excepting Christmas, when perhaps I should have
about three weeks' employment. I had a wife, but no children. Four years come
this winter was the last time that I had employment at the honourable part of
the trade. But before that I used to work for the sweaters when the regular
business was slack. I did this unknown to the society of which I was a member.
If it had been known to them, I should have had to pay a certain penalty, or
else my name would have been scratched off the books, and I should have no more
chance of work at the honourable trade. When working for the honourable trade I
was employed about one-third of my time, and I should say I earned about £30 in
the year. I was out of work two-thirds of my time. I never saved anything out of
my wages when I was fully employed. I generally got into debt in the slack time,
and was obliged to work hard to pay it off in the brisk. It was during the
vacation. eight years back, that I first went to a sweater. Sweaters were
scarcely known 25 years back, and they increased enormously after the change
from day work to piece work. I could get no employment at my regular trade, and
a sweater came down to the house and proposed to me privately to go and work for
him. It was a regular practice then for the sweaters to come to the house and
look out for such as had no employment and would work under price. I kept on for
four years secretly working for the sweaters during vacation, and after that I
got so reduced in circumstances that I could not appear respectable, and so get
work amongst the honourable trade. The pay that I received by working for the
sweaters was so little that I was forced to part with my clothes. When I first
went to work for the sweater I used to get 4s. 6d. for making the third part of
a coat. It would take from 11 to 13 hours to make a third. I could have done as
many as six thirds, but could not get them to do. The sweater where I worked
employed more hands than he had work for, so that he could get any job that was
wanted in a hurry done as quickly as possible. 1 should say upon an average I
got two-thirds of a coat to make each week, and earned about 7s. Some weeks, of
course, I did more; but some I had only one, and often none at all. The sweater
found me in trimmings. His system was the same as others, and I have worked for
many since in the last eight years. The sweaters all employ more men than they
want, and I am sure that those who work for them do not get more than two-thirds
of a coat to make every week, taking one week with another. Another of the
reasons for the sweaters keeping more hands than they want is, the men generally
have their meals with them. The more men they have with them the more breakfasts
and teas they supply, and the more profit they make. The men usually have to pay
4d.. and very often 5d. for their breakfast, and the same for their tea. The tea
or breakfast is mostly a pint of tea or coffee, and three to four slices of
bread and butter. I worked for one sweater who almost starved the men; the
smallest eater there would not have had enough if he had got three times as
much. They had only three thin slices of bread and butter, not sufficient for a
child, and the tea was both weak and bad. The whole meal could not have stood
him in 2d. a head; and what made it worse was, that the men who worked there
couldn't afford to have dinners, so that they were starved to the bone. The
sweater's men generally lodge where they work. A sweater usually keeps about six
men. These occupy two small garrets; one room is called the kitchen, and the
other the workshop; and here the whole of the six men, and the sweater, his
wife, and family, live and sleep. One sweater I worked with had four children
and six men, and they, together with his wife, sister-in-law, and himself, all
lived in two rooms, the largest of which was about eight feet by ten. We worked
in the smallest room and slept there as well - all six of us. There were two
turn-up beds in it, and we slept three in a bed. There was no chimney, and
indeed no ventilation whatever. I was near losing my life there - the foul air
of so many people working all day in the place and sleeping there at night was
quite suffocating. Almost all the men were consumptive, and I myself attended
the dispensary for disease of the lungs. The room in which we all slept was not
more than six feet square. We were all sick and weak, and loth to work. Each of
the six of us paid 2s. 6d. a week for our lodging, or 15s. altogether, and I am
sure such a room as we slept and worked in might be had for 1s. a week; you can
get a room with a fireplace for 1s. 6d. The usual sum that the men working for
sweaters pay for their tea. breakfast, and lodging is 6s. 6d. to 7s. a week, and
they seldom earn more money in the week. Occasionally at the week's end they are
in debt to the sweater. This is seldom for more than 6d., for the sweater will
not give them victuals if he has no work for them to do. Many who live and work
at the sweater's are married men. and are obliged to keep their wives and
children in lodgings by themselves. Some send them to the workhouse, others to
their friends in the country. Besides the profit of the board and lodging. the
sweater takes 6d. out of the price paid for every garment under 10s.; some take
1s., and I do know of one who takes as much as 2s. This man works for a large
show-shop at the West-end. The usual profit of the sweater, over and above the
board and lodging is 2s. out of every pound. Those who work for sweaters soon
lose their clothes, and are unable to seek for other work, because they have not
a coat to their back to go and seek it in. Last week I worked with another man
at a coat for one of her Majesty's Ministers, and my partner never broke his
fast while he was making his half of it. The Minister dealt at the cheap
West-end show-shop. All the workman had the whole day-and-a-half he was making
the coat was a little tea. But sweaters' work is not so bad as Government work,
after all. At that we cannot make more than 4s. or 5s. a week altogether-that
is, counting the time we are running after it, of course. Government contract
work is the worst work of all, and the starved-out and sweated-out tailor's last
resource. But still Government does not do the regular trade so much harm as the
cheap show and slop shops. These houses have ruined thousands. They have cut
down the prices so that men cannot live at the work; and the masters who did and
would pay better wages are reducing the workmen's pay every day. They say they
must either compete with the large show shops or go into the Gazette.
Of the system by which the sweaters are supported, the
following information will give the public some little notion:-
"I do the superior out-of-door work for a large
show-shop at the West-end," said the party from whom I had the information.
"Now I am making the walking and driving capes. There is one that is as
heavy as two 10s. coats, and yet I only get 18s. for it. I can't tell how long
one of them takes me to make, for it is so tedious a job that I get tired of it,
and put it down and commence something else. There is so much stitching in it
that a man never sees when he will have finished. It's a week's work for any
man. I have made every description of coat in the establishment. The pilot cloth
capes, bound all round the bottom with braid, I get 6s. for. They take two days
each to make. A Witney coat, double stitched all round, I get 10s. for, and each
one takes me three days' hard work. I'm sure no man can do it in less. The 18s.
coat that I mentioned before has ten rows of stitching all round; to convince
you, just count them yourself. If the capes are made of hard box-cloth we get
12s. for them, and they take every one of them four days to make. You see, the
master averages our work at 3s. a day; that is just half the price paid by the
houses in the honourable part of the trade, but he considers that with our
wives' help each of the men can get as much at the work as they could if working
single-handed at the honourable part of the trade. A whole family may certainly
make 36s. a week at the West-end show work, but then every woman engaged throws
a man out of employ; so that the employer not only gets part of his work done at
half price, but he deprives a great number of men of their regular employment.
For dress and frock coats the firm pays 10s., 11s., 13s., and l4s. No one
working at home can complain of the l4s. coats. He gives 6s. 6d. for making
shooting coats; if the linings are creased and stitched an inch apart, he gives
8s. 6d. The last will take three days each to make. He gives 1s. extra for
shooting jackets if they are bespoke. For the paletots he pays 8s. if they are
oversized. All the stock paletots are given out to a Jew to have made. He has
contracted for them at 7s. 6d. This Jew has also contracted for the stock
shooting coats at 6s. a-piece. The best work that we have to do are the 14s.
coats. At these a man could live. The worst work is the driving capes and
the paletots. At these a man can barely get a subsistence. At making the
box-coats the blood has been coming out of my finger's end, the cloth is so
hard. I can make 18s. a week, working twelve hours each day. My expenses out of
this are, for trimming, 1s.; coals, 1s.; and candles, 9d.; leaving me 15s. 3d.
per week clear. This is to support me and my wife and family. Before I came to
the show-shop trade I made about 30s. a week upon an average, or say twice as
much as I can do now. I was single then. In 1844 I belonged to the honourable
part of the trade. Our house of call supplied the present show-shop with men to
work on the premises. The prices then paid were at the rate of 6d. per hour. For
the same driving capes that they paid 18s. then, they give only 12s. for now.
For the dress and frock coats they gave 15s then. and now they are 14s. The
paletots and shooting coats were 12s.; there was no coat made on the premises
under that sum. At the end of the season they wanted to reduce the paletots to
9s. The men refused to make them at that price, when other houses were paying as
much as 15s. for them. The consequence of this was, the house discharged all the
men, and got a Jew middleman from the neighbourhood of Petticoat-lane to agree
to do them all at 7s. 6d. a-piece. The Jew employed all the poor people who were
at work for the slop warehouses in Houndsditch and its vicinity. This Jew makes
on an average 500 paletots a week. The Jew gets 2s. 6d. profit out of each, and
having no sewing trimmings allowed to him, he makes the workpeople find them.
The saving in trimmings alone to the firm, since the workmen left the premises,
must have realised a small fortune to them. Calculating men, women, and
children, I have heard it said that the cheap house at the West-end employs
1,000 hands. The trimmings for the work done by these would be about 6d. a week
per head; so that the saving to the house since the men worked on the premises
has been no less than £1,300 a year, and all this taken out of the pockets of
the poor. The Jew who contracts for making the paletots is no tailor at all. A
few years ago he sold sponges in the street, and now he rides in his carriage.
The Jew's profits are 500 half-crowns, or £60 odd, per week-that is, upwards of
£3,000 a year. Women are mostly engaged at the paletot work. When I came to
work for the cheap show-shop I had £5 10s. in the savings bank; now I have not
a halfpenny in it. All I had saved went little by little to keep me and my
family. I have always made a point of putting some money by when I could afford
it, but since I have been at this work it has been as much as I could do to live,
much more to save. One of the firm for which I work has been heard
publicly to declare that he employed 1,000 hands constantly. Now the earnings of
these at the honourable part of the trade would be upon an average, taking the
skilful with the unskilful, 15s. a week each, or £39,000 a year. But since they
discharged the men from off their premises they have cut down the wages of the
workmen one-half - taking one garment with another - though the selling
prices remain the same to the public; so that they have saved by the
reduction of the workmen's wages no less than £19,500 per year. Every other
quarter of a year something has been 'docked' off our earnings, until it is
almost impossible for men with families to live decently by their labour; and
now, for the first time, they pretend to feel for them. They even talk of
erecting a school for the children of their work- people; but where is the use
of their erecting schools, when they know as well as we do that, at the wages
they pay, the children must be working for their fathers at home? They had much
better erect workshops, and employ the men on the premises at fair living wages,
and then the men could educate their own children, without being indebted to
their 'charity.'"
In my last I merely hinted at the system adopted by wily
sweaters to entrap inexperienced country and Irish hands into their service.
Since then I devoted considerable attention to the subject, and am now in a
position to lay before the public the following facts in connection with this
trade:-
The system of inducing men by false pretences on the part of sweaters,
or more commonly, of sweaters' wives, to work for them at wretched
wages, I heard described in various terms. Such persons were most frequently
called kidnapped men. The following narrative, given to me by one of the
men concerned, and corroborated by one of his Irish fellow-victims, supplies an
instance of the stratagems adopted. The second Irishman had but, as he said to
me, "changed his house of bondage! - he had fallen into the hands of
another sweater, his coat was in pawn, and he could not, in spite of all his
struggles, lay by enough to redeem it. The wife of a sweater (an Irishman long
notorious for such practices). herself a native of Kerry, visited her friends in
that town, and found out two poor journeymen tailors. One was the son of a poor
tailor, the other of a small farmer. She induced these two young men to follow
her to London, immediately after her return. and at their own expense. She told
them of her husband's success in trade, and of the high wages to be got in
London by those who had friends in the trade, and engaged the two for her
husband. Their wages were to be 36s. a week "to begin with." When
the Irishmen reached the sweater's place, near Houndsditch, they found him in a
den of a place (I give the man's own words), anything but clean, and anything
but sweet, and were at once set to work at trousers making, at 1s. a pair,
finding their own trimmings, instead of 36s. a week, they could not clear more
than 5s. by constant labour, and the sweater attributed this to their
want of skill - they were not capable of working well enough for a London house.
He then offered to teach them if they would bind themselves apprentices to him
for a year certain. During the year they were to have board and lodging, and £5
each, paid at intervals as they required it. The poor men having no friends in
London, and no acquaintances even whom they might consult, consented to this
arrangement, and a sort of document was signed. They then went to work on this
new agreement, their board being this:- For breakfast-half a pint of poor cocoa
each, with half a pound of dry bread cut into slices, between the two; no
butter. Dinner was swallowed, a few minutes only being allowed for it, between
four and five. It was generally a few potatoes and a bit of salt fish, as
low-priced as could be met with. At seven, each man had half a pint of tea, and
the same allowance of bread as for breakfast. No supper. They slept three in a
bed, in a garret where there was no ventilation whatever. The two men
(apprenticed as I have described) soon found that the sweater was unable to
teach them anything in their trade, he not being a superior workman to either of
them. At three weeks' end they therefore seized an opportunity to escape. The
sweater traced them to where they had got work again, took with him a policeman,
and gave them in charge as runaway apprentices. He could not, however,
substantiate the charge at the station-house, and the men were set at liberty.
Even after that the sweater's wife was always hanging about the corners of the
streets, trying to persuade these men to go back again. She promised one that
she would give him a handsome daughter she had for his wife, and find the new
married pair "a beautiful slop shop" to work for, finding them
security and all, and giving them some furniture, if he would only go back. The
workman so solicited excused himself on the plea of illness. After this the
father of this youth, in Kerry, received an anonymous letter, telling him that
his son had run away from his employer, carrying with him a suit of clothes, and
that he (the father) should have his son written to, and persuaded to return,
and the robbery might be hushed up. This was every word false, and the anonymous
letter was forwarded to the son in London, and when shown to the sweater he
neither admitted nor denied it was his writing, but changed the conversation.
The third entrapped workman that I saw was a young man from
the country, who was accosted in the street by the sweater's wife, put down to
work under the same false pretences with the others, faring as they did until he
effected his escape. The sweater had then but those three hands-he wanted more
if his wife could have entrapped them. He had had six so entrapped or cheated in
some similar way. Their hours of work were from seven in the morning to twelve
at night.
Of this street kidnapping system I give another
instance, and in the words of the kidnapped:- "I am now twenty-one, and am
a native of Kilfinnan, in the county Limerick, Ireland. My parents died when I
was five. A brother, a poor labouring man, brought me up, and had me apprenticed
to a tailor. I served seven years. After that, before I ever worked as a
journeyman in Ireland, I thought I would come to London to better myself, and I
did come, but didn't better myself-worse luck! I 'tramped' from Kilfinnan to
Cork, starting with 18s., which I had saved, and with no clothes but the suit I
had on. I started because London has such a name among the tailors in Ireland,
but they soon find out the difference when they come here. A journeyman tailor
in Kilfinnan works for 2s. 6d. a week, his lodging, and two meals a day. In the
morning bread and milk, and plenty of it; in the evening potatoes and meat, but
meat only twice or thrice a week; fish always on fast-days, and sometimes on
other days. I spent in tramping from Kilfinnan to Cork, 38 Irish miles, 6s. I
took my passage from the Cove of Cork by a steamer to Bristol, paying 10s. for
it. I landed at Bristol with 2s., tramping it up to London. A waggoner once gave
me a lift of 18 miles for nothing. I had no help from the trade as I came along.
I begged my way, getting bits of bread and cheese at farmers' houses and such
places. In five days I reached London, knowing no one but a labourer of the name
of Wallace. I found he was dead. That's eighteen months ago. One of Wallace's
friends said I should do best at the East-end, but bad's the best I did. I took
his advice, and went on that way, and was in Bishopsgate-street, when I met -, a
sweater. He spoke to me, saying. 'Are you a tailor seeking work?' I answered
'Yes, to be sure.' He then said he would give me plenty of good work, if I would
go with him. I went with him to Brick-lane, where he lived, and he said I must
first go a week on trial. I got nothing but my board for that week's
work-working six days, long hours. After that he offered me 3s. 6d. a week,
board and lodging - not washing. I had no friends, and thought I had better take
it, as I did. For breakfast I had less than a pint of cocoa and four slices of
thin bread and butter-bad bread from the security' baker's, the worst of bread -
only the butter was worse. For dinner - but sometimes only was there dinner,
perhaps two days a week, perhaps only one - we had potatoes and salt fish. I
couldn't eat salt fish, so he had it regular. Sometimes I got a bite of a bull's
cheek. Bad as I lived in Ireland, it was a great deal wholesomer than this - and
I had plenty of it too. My master there gave me a bellyfull; here he never did.
I slept with another man in a small bed; there were three beds with six men in
them in a middle-sized room, the room where the six men worked. My employer, his
wife, and I worked downstairs. He boarded and lodged them all - they living as I
did. Some of them, working fifteen hours a day, earned 5s. or 6s. a week. I
worked and hungered this way for four months, and then we quarrelled, because I
wouldn't work all Sunday for nothing; so I left. I'm badly off still."
The continual immigration of foreign labour that I had
discovered to be part of the system by which the miserable prices of the
slop-trade were maintained, was the next subject to which I directed my
inquiries, and I was able to obtain evidence which clearly proves how the
honourable part of the trade are undersold by the "sloppers." The
party who gave me the following valuable information on this head was a
Hungarian Jew sweater. He said:-
"I am a native of Pesth, having left Hungary about eight
years ago. By the custom of the country I was compelled to travel three years in
foreign parts before I could settle in my native place. I went to Paris after
travelling about that time in the different countries of Germany. I stayed in
Paris about two years. My father's wish was that I should visit England, and I
came to London in June, 1847. I first worked for a West-end show-shop - not
directly for them, but through the person who is their 'middleman,' getting work
done at what rates he could for the firm, and obtaining the prices they allowed
for making the garments. I once worked four days and a half for him, finding my
own trimmings, etc., for 9s. For this my employer would receive 12s. 6d. On each
coat of the best quality he got 3s. and 3s. 6d. profit. He then employed 190
hands; he has employed 300; many of those so employed setting their wives,
children, and others to work, some employing as many as five hands in this way.
The middleman keeps his carriage, and will give fifty guineas for a horse. I
became unable to work, from a pain in my back, from long hours at my occupation.
The doctor told me not to sit much, and so, as a countryman of mine was doing
the same, I employed hands, making the best I could of their labour. I have now
four young women (all Irish girls) so employed. Last week one of them received
4s., another 4s. 2d., the other two 5s. each. They find their own board
and lodging, but I find them a place to work in - a small room, the rent of
which I share with another tailor, who works on his own account. There are not
so many Jews come over from Hungary or Germany as from Poland. The law of
travelling three years brings over many, but not more than it did. The
revolutions have brought numbers this year and last. They are Jew tailors flying
from Russian and Prussian-Poland to avoid the conscription. I never knew any of
these Jews go back again. There is a constant communication among the Jews, and
when their friends in Poland and other places learn they're safe in England, and
in work and out of trouble, they come over too, even if they can earn more at
home. I worked as a journeyman in Pesth, and got 2s. 6d. a week, my board,
washing, and lodging. We lived well, everything being so cheap. The Jews come in
the greatest number about Easter. They try to work their way here, most of them.
Some save money here, but they never go back; if they leave England, it is to go
to America.
To further elucidate the ramifications of the sweating trade,
I give the account of a German Jew, who, with his family and an English girl,
worked for a middleman, the same man of whom I received an account from the
Hungarian Jew. The German Jew spoke little English. I found him surrounded by
his family, of whom I give an account from his own lips:- "The revolution
made me leave Posen, as it did many others. We thought we should be best here in
England. At Posen I and another man earned £2 a week as journeymen tailors. We
worked 12 or 13 hours a day, but had an hour for dinner and an hour for
pleasure. We all worked out of the shop, finding our own trimmings, and
sometimes buttons, for which our employers paid us, in addition to our wages,
when the work was taken in. I can't tell what it cost us to come here, as we had
help from our countrymen on the way. Since I have been in London (more than a
year) I have always worked for - [the West-end middleman]. A great many of my
countrymen, who came over like myself, worked for him before I did, and a great
many do so still. I don't know how many-perhaps thirty other families. For this
paletot you see me making gives 5s. It takes me, hard work too, 26 hours
to make it. For the rows of stitching in this quilting we say that the tailor
gets paid for only one stitch in three - the others -'s profit [one row
contained 300 stitches]. I suppose he will charge 7s. for his paletot to the
show-shop that employs him. I am now 41, and work constantly at this trade; so
does my wife, about my own age [now sick], a work girl [a pretty English girl of
17], and my three sons, aged 18, 17, and 12. Among us we may make £2 a week."
The English girl [her own account] received 3s. 6d. a week, and her tea morning
and evening, to which she supplied her own bread and butter. This man told me
that now employed 190 or 200 hands, and he spoke much of his "grand house,
horses, and carriage."
I had also found out that there was at the East-end a house
of call for women, which had been recently established with a view of
facilitating the supply of female labour. The following statement in connection
with that subject I took down verbatim. All the persons with whom I
conversed on the subject attributed great importance to there being no such
house of call established, as it would tend materially to strengthen the system
under which they were suffering:- Mr. S-, a trimming-seller," said my
informant, "told me that he intended to open a house of call for girls and
women at the tailoring, and that if I wanted any, for a fee of 3d. a head to
him, I could always obtain them. The women, for having their names put down,
paid 3d. each. He has sent me two, and would have sent me a dozen if I had
wanted them. I called upon him last week, but he said two gentlemen had been
making inquiries, and he was alarmed, as he had no license for registry. What he
meant by that I hardly know. He still offered to supply me without a fee, if I
was a customer. The system, but for this check, would no doubt have been
pursued, and would have increased."
With respect to the system of fines, I subjoin the following
account of fines inflicted this year by a slop-shop on one man (cause seldom
assigned): - A coat, name B-, No. 8,330, fined 3d.; a jacket, name O-, 7,423,
fined 1s.; a jacket, name S-, 7,125, fined 6d.; a jacket, name R- , 8,274, fined
3d.; a coat, name J-, 1,557, fined 1s.; a coat, name T-, 2,047, fined 1s.; a
jacket, name L-, 3,870, fined 1s.; a coat, name G-, 3,644, fined 3d.; a jacket,
name F-, fined 3d.; 2s. for being abusive to A-; a coat, name H-, 2,742, fined
1s.; a coat, name C-, 2,882, fined 3d.; a coat, name B-, 3,739, fined 1s.; a
jacket, name W-, 3,373, fined 6d.; a coat, name W-, 3,885, fined 6d.; a coat,
name R-, 3,819, fined 6d.; a coat, name B. F. B-, 4,286, fined 1s.; a coat, name
W-, 4,402, fined 6d.; a coat, name R-, 5,193, fined 6d.; a coat, name L-, fined
6d.