[-142-] Our engraving represents the well-known
row of butchers' shops; for the Whitechapel butcher still belongs to the old
school, taking a delight in his blue livery, and wearing his steel with as much
satisfaction as a young ensign does his sword. He neither spurns his worsted
leggings nor duck apron; but, with bare muscular arms, and a knife keen enough
to sever the ham-string of an old black bull, takes his stand proudly at the
front of his shop, and looks "lovingly" on the well-fed joints that
dangle above his head. The gutters before his door literally run with blood:
pass by whenever you may, there is the crimson current constantly flowing; and
the smell the passenger inhales is not such as may be supposed to have floated
over "Araby the blest." A "Whitechapel bird" and a "Whitechapel
butcher "were once synonymous phrases, used to denote a character the very
reverse of a gentleman; but in the manners of the latter we believe there is a
very great improvement, and that more than one "knight of the
cleaver," who here in the daytime manufactures sheep into mutton-shops,
keeps his country-house.
The specimens of viands offered for sale in these streets
augur well for the strength of the stomachs of the Whitechapel populace; no
gentleman of squeamish appetite would like to run the risk of trying one of
those out-of-door dinners, which ever stand ready- dressed. The sheep's trotters
look as if they had scarcely had time enough to kick off the dirt before they
were potted; and as for the ham, it appears bleached instead of salted; and to
look at the sandwiches, you would think they were veal, or any thing except what
they are called. As for the fried fish, it resembles coarse red sand-paper; and
you would sooner think of purchasing a penny- worth to polish the handle of a
cricket-bat or racket than of trying its qualities in any other way. The black
puddings resemble great fossil ammonites, cut up lengthwise; for while you gaze
on them you cannot help picturing these relics of the early world, and fancying
that they must have been found in some sable soil abounding in broken fragments
of gypsum, which would account for the fat-like substance inside. What the
"faggots" are made of, which form such a popular dish in this
neighbourhood, we have yet to learn. We have heard rumours of chopped lights,
liver, suet, and onions being used in the manufacturing of these dusky dainties;
but he must be a dating man who would convince himself by tasting: for our part,
we feel confident that there is a great mystery to be unravelled before the
innumerable strata which form these smoking hil-[-143-]locks
will ever be made known. The pork-pies which you see in these windows contain no
such effeminate morsels as lean meat, but have the appearance of good
substantial bladders of lard shoved into a strong crust, from which there was no
chance of escape, then sent to the oven· and "done brown. The ham-and-beef
houses display the same love of fatness, as if neither pig nor bullock could be
overfed that comes to be consumed by the "greasy citizens" of the east
end of London.
As for fish! the very oysters gape at you with open mouths,
as if they knew how useless it would be to keep closed in such a ravenous
looking neighbourhood. They seem to cast imploring glances at the passers-by, as
if begging to be taken out of the hot sun, and devoured as quickly as possible.
You see great suspicious-looking whelks, sweltering in little saucers of
vinegar; and you cannot help wondering what would be the result if you attempted
to eat one; and while you are thus doubting, without "doating," some
great broad-shouldered fellow comes up, throws down his penny, and, making but
one mouthful of the lot, lifts the saucer to his lips, and drains the last drop
of vinegar, then goes, for a finisher, into the nearest gin-shop. Pickled eels,
cut up into Whitechapel mouthfuls, are fished up from the bottom of great brown
jars, and devoured with avidity. You can never pass along without seeing
brewers' drays unloading somewhere in the streets; and you cannot help thinking
what hundreds a year Barclay and Perkins might save, in the wear and tear of men
and horses, if they laid down pipes all the way from their brewery in the
Borough to Whitechapel.
What little taste they display (if we may make use of
so classical a phrase in contradistinction to their "palatal" or
gastronomic propensities), is shewn in their love of pigeon-keeping; and many of
the "fanciers in this district can boast of possessing both a choice and an
extensive stock of these beautiful birds. From this taste arise good results,
inasmuch as it leads them into the suburbs, especially on Sundays, when they
either carry the pigeons with them in bags or thrust them into their
coat-pockets, and so wander for three or four miles out, when they turn the
birds loose, both parties thus enjoying the luxury of a little fresh air. They
are excellent hands at decoying pigeons, for all the "strays" that
alight in the neighbourhood are pretty sure to become "Whitechapel
birds." What means they use for entrapping these feathered favourites we
have not been able to ascertain, though one knowing fellow told us, with a
deep-meaning wink, that "it was the fineness of the climate, and a little 'hankypanky'
business." We paid a pot of beer for the information, without asking for
any clearer definition of the latter phrase.
Thomas Miller, Picturesque Sketches of London Past and Present, 1852