A HALF-PENNYWORTH OF NAVIGATION.
Who's for a cheap ride on what a pleasant writer calls the
"silent highway? - silent no longer, since the steamers have
taken to plying above Bridge at a charge which has made the
surface of the Thames, where it runs through the heart of
London, populous with life, and noisy with the clash of paddles and the rush of steam, to say nothing of the incessant
chorus of captains, engine-boys, and gangway-men - with
their "Ease her," "Stop her," "Back her," "Turn ahead,"
"Turn astarn," "Now, marm, with the bundle, be alive,"
"Heave ahead there, will you?" &c., all the day long.
Come this way, my friend; here we are opposite the
Adelphi Theatre, and this is the man who used to be a black
man, or else it's another, who does duty as talking finger-post,
and shows you, if you are a stranger, how you are to get at the
half-penny boat. Come, we must dive down this narrow lane,
past the "Fox under the Hill", a rather long and not very sightly, cleanly, smooth, or fragrant thoroughfare; and here,
in this shed-looking office, you must pay your half-penny,
which guarantees you a passage all the way to London Bridge.
Look alive! as the money-taker recommends - the Bee, you
see, is already discharging her living cargo, and others are
hurrying on board. The boat wont lose time in turning round
- she goes backwards and forwards as straight as a saw, and
carries a rudder at her nose as well as one at her tail. Never
mind these jolting planks, you havn't time to tumble down -
on with you! That's it: here, on this floating-pier, manufactured from old barges, we may rest a moment, while the
boat discharges her freight, and takes on board the return
cargo. You see the landing-stage or pier is divided into two
equal portions; the people who are leaving the boat have not
yet paid their fare; they will have to disburse their coppers at
the office where we paid ours, there being but one paying-place
for the two termini.
Tis a motley company, you see, which comes and goes by
the half-penny boat. Here is a Temple barrister, with his
red-taped brief under his arm, and at his heels follows a plasterer, and a tiler's labourer with a six-foot chimney-pot upon
his shoulders. There goes a foreigner - foreigners like to
have things cheap - with a bushy black beard and a pale face,
moustached and whiskered to the eyes, and puffing a volume
of smoke from his invisible mouth; and there is a washer-woman, with a basket of clothes weighing a hundredweight.
Yonder young fellow, with the dripping sack on his back, is
staggering under a load of oysters from Billingsgate, and he
has got to wash them and sell them for three a penny, and see
them swallowed one at a time, before his work will be done
for the day - and behind him is a comely lassie, with a monster oil-glazed sarcophagus-looking milliner's basket,
carrying
home a couple of bonnets to a customer. See ! there is lame
Jack, who sweeps the crossing in the borough, followed by a
lady with her "six years' darling of a pigmy size," whom she
calls "Little Popps," both hurrying home to dinner after a
morning's shopping. All these, and a hundred others of
equally varied description, go off on the landing-stage, whence
they will have to pay their obolus to the Charon of the Thames
ere they are swallowed up in the living tide that rolls along
the Strand from morn to night.
Now if we mean to go, we had better get on board, for in
another minute the deck will be covered, and we shall not find
room to stand. That's right; make sure of a seat while you
may! How they swarm on board, and what a choice sample
they present of the mixed multitude of London! The deck is
literally jammed with every variety of the pedestrian population - red-breasted soldiers from the barracks,
glazed-hatted
policemen from the station, Irish labourers and their wives,
errand-boys with notes and packages, orange-girls with empty
baskets, working-men out for a mouthful of air, and idle boys
out for a "spree" - men with burdens to carry, and men with
hardly a rag to cover them; unctuous Jews, jabbering Frenchmen, and drowsy-looking Germans - on they flock, squeezing
through the gangway, or clambering over the bulwarks, while
the little vessel rolls and lurches till the water laves the planks
on which you stand. In three minutes from her arrival she
has discharged her old cargo, and is crammed to overflowing
with a new one. " Back, there: overloaded already!" roars
the captain. "Let go; turn ahead; go on!"- and fiz! away
we go, leaving full half of the intending voyagers to wait for
the next boat, which, however, will not be long in coming.
"Bless me, how we roll about from side to side!" says an
anxious old lady. "Is anything the matter with the boat,
that it wabbles so?"
"Only a little krank, marm; it's all right," says the person
addressed.
"It's all right, of course," says another, glancing at the
nervous lady, "whether we goes up or whether we goes down,
so long as we gets along. The Cricket blowed herself up, and
the Ant got tired on it, and laid down to rest herself at the
bottom t'other day-. Howasever, a steamer never blows up
nor goes to the bottom but once; and, please God, t aint goin' to be this
time."
While the old lady, unsatisfied with this genuine specimen
of Cockney philosophy, is vowing that if she once gets safe on
shore she will never again set foot in a half-penny boat, we
are already at Waterloo Bridge. Duck goes the funnel, and
we dart under the noble arch, and catch a passing view of
Somerset House. The handsome structure runs away in our
rear; the Chinese Junk, with its tawdry flags, scuttles after
it; we catch a momentary glimpse of Temple Gardens, lying
in the sunlight, where half-a-dozen children are playing on
the grass; then comes Whitefriars, the old Alsatia, the sanctuary of blackguard ruffianism in bygone times; then there is
a smell of gas, and a vision of enormous gasometers; and then
down goes the funnel again, and Blackfriars Bridge jumps over
us. On we go, now at the top of our speed, past the dingy
brick warehouses that lie under the shadow of St. Paul's, whose
black dome looks down upon us as we scud along. Then Southwark Bridge, with its Cyclopean masses of gloomy metal,
disdains to return the slightest response to the fussy splashing
we make, as we shoot impudently through. Then come more
wharfs and warehouses, as we glide past, while our pace
slackens, and we stop gently within a stone's throw of London
Bridge, at Dyers' Hall, where we are bundled out of the boat
with as little ceremony as we were bundled in, and with as
little, indeed, as it has ever been the custom to use since ceremony was invented - which, in matters of business, is a very
useless thing.
And now, my friend, you have accomplished a half-penny
voyage; and without being a conjuror, you can see how it is
that this cheap navigation is so much encouraged. In the
first place, it is cheaper than shoe-leather, leaving fatigue out
of the question; it saves a good two miles of walking, and
that is no trifle, especially under a heavy burden, or in slippery weather. In the second place, it may be said to be often
cheaper than dirt, seeing that the soil and injury to clothing,
Which it saves by avoiding a two miles' scamper through the
muddy ways, would damage the purse of a decent man more
than would the cost of several journeys. These are considerations which the humbler classes appreciate, and therefore they
flock to the cheap boats, and spend their half-pence to save their
pence and their time. This latter consideration of time-saving
it is that brings another class of customers to the boats. In
order that it may be remunerative to the projectors, every
passage must be made with a regular and undeviating rapidity; -
and this very necessity becomes in its turn a source of profit,
because it is a recommendation to a better class of business
men and commercial agents, to whom a saving of time is daily
a matter of the utmost importance. Hence the motley mixture of all ranks and orders that crowd the deck.
Besides these half-penny boats, there are others which run
at double and quadruple fares; but they carry a different class
of passengers, and run greater distances, stopping at intermediate stations. They are all remunerative speculations;
and they may be said to have created the traffic by which
they thrive. They have driven the watermen's wherries off the river almost as effectually as the railways have driven the
stage-coaches from the road; but, like them, they have multiplied the passengers by the thousand, and have awakened the
public to a new sense of the value of the river as a means of
transit from place to place.