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[-166-]
THE POTATO-CAN.
KIND
or morose - urbane or surly reader! as the case may be, are you ready to
accompany us in a stroll through the Strand ?"
You
shrug your shoulders doubtingly-
"The hour!"
"Well, it is not so late ; St. Clement's clock has
only chimed nine."
You thrust your face between the closely-drawn
window-curtains of your luxuriously-appointed snuggery, and peeping out on a raw
foggy November night, through which the gas-lamps shine with a sort of fuddled
brilliancy upon the wet flagways, reply by a shake of the head, and an
affectionate glance at the bright burning fire in your grate.
"Pooh! never mind the night; light your cigar, and come
with us; we are going character-hunting."
"Ah! that will be interesting. I place myself in your
hands."
"Thanks, good reader. Now let us begone."
"Allons! - But where are we to seek for your
characters?"
"Have I not told you? - in the Strand. We will cast our
nets at random, and trust me we shall soon bring up a curious specimen of the genus
homo that will reward our trouble. Hark!"
[-167-] "Tatoes hot!-all hot! hot! hot!"
"There; I said we should not be long till we had caught one. Listen to
that cry!"
"Tatoes hot !-penny a-piece--all hot! hot! hot!"
"The performer is not far distant. There he stands by the pillar, under
the archway that leads from Pickett Street into Clement's Inn, the proprietor of
the most popular Baked 'Tato-Can within the bills of mortality."
"You surely do not call this fellow a character?"
"Why not,
my friend? I anticipate your objections; he may be somewhat too vulgar to figure
in a legitimate comedy or a fashionable novel, but he is nevertheless a character;
and humble though he be, he fills an important position in the social
stratum to which he belongs. You that have been accustomed to the piquant plats
of a French cuisine may probably despise the simple fare that he
offers; but let me tell you there are worse things in the world on a frosty
night than a piping-hot baked potato; and many a costly whitebait dinner at
Blackwall has been eaten with less relish than an unpretending murphy from
a Potato-Can."
Stand
forth, then, thou "Soyer for the Million," while we sketch thy portrait, and
celebrate the flavour - of thy Irish fruit, though the dignity of the subject
might require a pen like his that made "The Groves of Blarney" immortal-
"Oh! had I janus like that bould prater
Lord
Harry Brougham, or like Masther Dan,
I'd surely be thy brave can-tator,
And
sing the praises of thy tator-can!
Here we can stand in the shadow of the spacious archway and observe him.
The busy and eager throng that [-168-] throughout the day filled the streets are gradually receding before new multitudes, as busy
and as eager as those that have passed away. And so it is with the world:
centuries sweep onward, as wave follows wave, and still the ceaseless human
tide swells and rolls its living billows to the illimitable Ocean of Eternity. A
new race of workers and idlers have succeeded to those that flowed through
the veins and arteries of the City in the morning-artisans from close workshops;
clerks from dim offices or dingy warehouses; pale children of misery to whom
Night offers a friendly veil; and the numerous brood of crime and shame who live
in the shadow of its ebon wings, are hurrying or loitering along. Here, a
serious party, returning from a Temperance Soirée, is jostled by a group. of
drapers' assistants, who are making an "Early Closing Movement" in the
direction of the Casino. And there, a steady citizen, hastening to the bosom of
his family, is nearly overturned by a lawyer's clerk rushing to the pit of the
Olympic Theatre at half-price. Then what an indescribable medley of sounds fills
the air! What clattering, rolling, screaming, whistling, singing, talking,
laughing, and crying on all sides, mingled and confounded into one deep roar,
amidst which the quick peculiar cry of our neighbour of the Potato-Can comes at
regular intervals on the ear-
"Tatoes hot !-all hot! hot! hot!"
Observe with what intense admiration the group of urchins who
surround his locomotive kitchen watch the slender jet of steam that issues from
its diminutive safety-pipe, and wreathes its light drapery around the massive
pillar against which he has established himself. We doubt whether "the
Father of the Steam-[-169-]Engine" as some enthusiast in railways once called the
ingenious Watt - ever excited so much interest by his monster offspring as the Baked
'Tatoe Man creates nightly in
the minds and stomachs of the penniless investigators of the scientific
principles of his simple cooking-machine.
But hold! a customer approaches - a youngster, rich in the sole
proprietorship of a penny, which he has determined upon investing in "a
jolly mealy tator, with a shave of butter, and a shake of pepper - certingly."
There is not much in the external appearance of the gamin to command
respect: his cap is a deal too small for his head, and his bluchers a deal too
large for his feet; the remainder of his incongruous habiliments seem to hang
rather by complaisance than necessity to his body. Yet there is a certain
confidence in the manner in which he thrusts his hands into a couple of wide
chasms, originally intended for pocket-holes, in the garment he calls his
trousers, and a saucy independence in the way he juts out his elbows, that
forces a conviction of his wealth, and procures for him the deference always
paid to its envied possessor. The circle opens to admit the young gourmand, who,
with a knowing wink of the eye, commences a sort of preliminary skirmish with
the potato-vendor before he enters upon the serious business of ordering his
supper.
"Well, guv'nor, I see you're a-keeping the steam up as
usual. Vot's the lowest figure now for your werry best - takin' a quantity?"
"Penny a-piece-all hot-hot !"
"Penny a-piece for baked tators, and the funds a-going
down like winkin! Why, I had a pine-apple [-170-] myself out of Common Garden this morning for two- pence.
Trade's uncommon bad, guv'nor."
"Penny a-piece-all hot-hot."
"There's a hopposition can, too, started by a gentleman
at the corner of the Olympic Theyatre, 'The Halbert and Wictoria,' it's
called. Isn't it a spicy concern? and don't they give prime tators there - real
nobby ones, and plenty of butter. Oh! not at all! And 'tis so respectable, it's a
pleasure for a gentleman, coming from the hop'ra, to stop and have a bit of
supper there on his road home. I des'say the pro- per-ietor is a-making of his
fortune, and that he'll retire from business in a couple of years to his willa
in the Regency Park."
This picture of his rival's prosperity irritates the owner of
the original "Victoria" can, and he orders his tormentor to
"move on, directly."
"Oh! werry likely. I'm a-standing here on Her Majesty's
kerb-stone, expressing my opinions upon the pop'lur subject of 'tators, and
consekvently shan't move on."
A murmur of applause runs through the juvenile circle
for the spirited speaker.
"I don't want money or credit, so look sharp, old fellow
- open your can, and pick me out a stunner from the lot."
The potato-baker's countenance relaxes at the sight of an
ostentatiously displayed penny-piece; and while he extracts a mealy tuber from
his stock, the gamin goes through a series of sleight-of-hand
performances with the coin - such as shaking it out of his cap after having
swallowed it, or thrusting it into his eye and [-171-] bringing it out of his ear; assuring the spectators, all the
time, that he has spent two large fortunes, which have not yet come to him, in
learning these tricks. Then he turns to the potato-man, and expressing his
indignation at the ridiculously thin shave of butter inserted in his potato,
demands to have the deficiency made up by an extra shake of the pepper-box; and
having obtained it, makes his exit in one of T. P. Cooke's favourite hornpipe
steps.
The gamin has scarcely departed, when a pale, elderly
man, in whose hollow cheeks want and misery have ploughed deep furrows,
approaches timidly. His threadbare black coat is buttoned closely to his throat;
he casts around him a quick, fearful glance to ascertain that he is not observed
- hastily places his penny in the hand of the potato-baker, and receives
in return me of the steaming esculents, with which, without speaking a word, he
hurries away, to devour it in his fireless, lightless, solitary garret. That man
- some fifteen years ago - was one of the "merchant princes" of London; his
commerce extended to every quarter of the globe, and his credit was
unimpeachable where- ever his name was known. Luxury and ostentation, however,
went hand in hand with affluence, and the vast wealth of L- was only equalled by
the princely magnificence of his mansion, his equipage, and his entertainments.
But the fair wind of prosperity, which had so long filled his sails, at length
shifted round - an extensive mining speculation, in which he had invested a large
sum, proved a complete failure; this was followed by other heavy losses: but the
credit of the house remained unshaken, and prudence and economy only were
required to restore it to its former [-172-] high position, when the railway mania burst forth and spread
like a contagion throughout the land. Amongst the most reckless adventurers was
L-, who hoped by a brilliant coup to recover all that he had latterly
lost. The sequel may be anticipated. When the monster bubble burst, L-.- found
himself a ruined man. It would be painful to describe his subsequent career in
the downward struggles of poverty, until, abandoned by the friends of his
prosperity - family he had none - he sunk to his present miserable condition, the
recipient of a niggardly allowance of a few shillings a-week from a distant
relative - barely sufficient to keep him from the Workhouse door. Thus slides the
world! The Amphytrion whose epicurean dinners were praised by the most
fastidious gastronomes, sups to-night on a baked potato purchased with his last
penny at a vulgar 'Tato-Can.
But, while we have been engaged with the misfortunes of the
ruined merchant, another customer appears : a girl, rather short than tall -
rather smart than pretty - rather fine than neat - rather voluble than
persuasive - the maid-of-all-work from a lodging-house in Surrey Street, who has
been dispatched by Mr. Malachi Daly, the Irish law-student in the second floor,
for a thundering big dish-full of his native fruit. Mr. Daly has invited his
cousin, Tom Geoghegan of Ballydine, Counsellor Donnellan, Mat Burke of Kiltulla,
and three or four more of the boys, to "a slight sketch" of a supper,
consisting of a Wicklow ham (a present from his Aunt Moriarty in Dublin), backed
by a tea-tray full of oysters and the aforesaid dish of baked potatoes, with an
unlimited allowance of whisky-punch - for the judicious manufacture of which a
regi-[-173-]ment of Kinahan's real LL quart bottles have been paraded on
the chimney-piece, and the large metal kettle from the kitchen has been ordered
to be kept perpetually boiling on Mr. Daly's own fire.
But here come new figures upon the scene: a young working
man, clad in a stout flannel jacket, accompanied by his pretty-looking wife,
have mingled in the group, and are evidently undecided whether the few pence
they have determined to spend on some little luxury shall be devoted to Baked 'Tatoes or to the Hot Mutton Pies of which a neighbouring professor is boasting
the delicious quality. A secret misgiving, perhaps, relative to the feline
character of the Pie-material, induces them to give the preference to the
productions of the Potato-Can.
A thickly-coated, short, fat man, with fine purply-tinted
features, and little grey eyes twinkling beneath a pair of light bushy eyebrows,
next bustles into the circle to light his cigar at the potato-vender's lamp.
That is the Chairman of a Charitable Society, who, in the true spirit of the
benevolence which begins at home, has been dining with the Treasurer, Secretary,
and Committee at the London Tavern, at the cost of the Institution. A rich odour
of charity and roast venison diffuses itself around him, and words of the
warmest sympathy for human sufferings seem to hang upon his moist lip, till a
poor shivering woman, who has been anxiously watching the countenances of the
passers-by, ventures, in a subdued voice, to ask for a penny.
"Penny, be d-d! Go to the Workhouse if you're hungry,"
replies the benevolent Chairman, puffing the [-174-] smoke of his cigar indignantly before him as he shuffles off.
A miscellaneous crowd from the theatres now surround the
Baked 'Tato Man-customers pour in, and we leave him with his hands full of
business - trusting, as sermons may be found in stones, that something good may be
extracted even from a Potato-Can.
J. STIRLING COYNE.
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