OF THE STREET-SELLERS OF GAME, POULTRY (LIVE AND DEAD), RABBITS, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.
The class who sell
game and poultry in the public thoroughfares of the metropolis are styled
hawkers, both in Leadenhall and Newgate-market. The number of these dealers in
London is computed at between 200 and 300. Of course, legally to sell game, a
license, which costs 2l. 2s. yearly, is required; but the
street-seller laughs at the notion of being subjected to a direct tax; which,
indeed, it might be impossible to levy on so "slippery" a class.
The sale of game, even
with a license, was not legalised until 1831; and, prior to that year, the mere
killing of game by an "unqualified" person was an offence entailing
heavy penalties. The "qualification" consisted of the possession of a
freehold estate of 100l. a year, or a leasehold for ninety-nine years of
150l. a year! By an Act, passed in the 25th year of George III., it was
provided that a certificate (costing 3l. 13s. 6d.) must be
taken out by all qualified persons killing game. Since 1831 (1 & 2 William
IV., c. 32,) a certificate, without any qualification, is all that is required
from the game-killer.
Both sexes carry on
the trade in game-hawking, but there are more than thrice as many men as women
engaged in the business, the weight occasionally carried being beyond a woman's
strength. The most customary dress of the game or poultry-hawker is a clean
smock-frock covering the whole of his other attire, except the ends of his
trousers and his thick boots or shoes. Indeed he often, but less frequently than
was the case five years ago, assumes the dress of a country labourer, although
he may have been for years a resident in London. About forty years ago, I am
informed, it was the custom for countrymen, residing at no great distance, to
purchase a stock of chickens or ducks; and, taking their places in a wagon, to
bring their birds to London, and hawk them from door to door. Some of these
men's smock-frocks were a convenient garb, for they covered the ample pockets of
the coat beneath, in which were often a store of partridges, or an occasional
pheasant or hare. This game, illegally killed -for it was all poached - was
illegally sold by the hawker, and illegally bought by the hotel-keepers and the
richer tradesmen. One informant (an old man) was of opinion that the game was
rarely offered for sale by these countrymen at the West-end mansions of the
aristocracy. "In fact," he said, "I knew one country fellow
-though he was sharp enough in his trade of game and poultry-selling -who seemed
to think that every fine house, without a shop, and where there were livery
servants, must needs be inhabited by a magistrate! But, as the great props of
poaching were the rich -for, of course, the poor couldn't buy game -there was,
no doubt, a West-end as well as a City trade in it. I have bought game of a
country poultry-hawker," continued my informant, "when I lived in the
City at the beginning of this century, and generally gave 3s. 6d.
a brace for partridges. I have bid it, and the man has left, refusing to take
it; and has told me afterwards, and, I dare say, he spoke the truth, that he had
sold his partridges at 5s. or 6s. or more. I believe 5s. a
brace was no uncommon price in the City. I have given as much as 10s. for
a pheasant for a Christmas supper. The hawker, before offering the birds for
sale, used to peer about him, though we were alone in my counting-house, and
then pull his partridges out of his pockets, and say, `Sir, do you want any very
young chickens?' -for so he called them. Hares he called `lions;' and they cost
often, enough, 5s. each of the hawker. The trade had all the charms and
recommendations of a mystery and a risk about it, just like smuggling."
The sale of game in
London, however, was not confined to the street-hawkers, who generally derived
their stock-in-trade immediately from the poacher. Before the legalisation of
the sale, the trade was carried on, under the rose, by the salesmen in
Leadenhall-market, and that to an extent of not less than a fifteenth of the
sale now accomplished
there. The purveyors for the London game-market -I learned from leading salesmen
in Leadenhall -were not then, as now, noble lords and honourable gentlemen, but
peasant or farmer poachers, who carried on the business systematically. The
guards and coachmen of the stage-coaches were the media of communication, and
had charge of the supply to the London market. The purchasers of the game thus
supplied to a market, which is mostly the property of the municipality of the
City of London, were not only hotel-keepers, who required it for public dinners
presided over by princes, peers, and legislators, but the purveyors for the
civic banquets -such as the Lord Mayor's ninth of November dinner, at which the
Ministers of State always attended.
This street-hawking of
poached game, as far as I could ascertain from the best-informed
quarters, hardly survived the first year of the legalised sale.
The female hawkers of
game are almost all the wives of the men so engaged, or are women living with
them as their wives. The trade is better, as regards profit, than the
costermonger's ordinary pursuits, but only when the season is favourable; it is,
however, more uncertain.
There is very rarely a
distinction between the hawkers of game and of poultry. A man will carry both,
or have game one day and poultry the next, as suits his means, or as the market
avails. The street-sellers of cheese are generally costers, while the vendors of
butter and eggs are almost extinct.
Game, I may mention,
consists of grouse ( including black-cocks, and all the varieties of heath or
moor-game), partridges, pheasants, bustards, and hares. Snipe, woodcocks,
plovers, teal, widgeons, wild ducks, and rabbits are not game, but can only be
taken or killed by certificated persons, who are owners or occupiers of the
property on which they are found, or who have the necessary permission from such
persons as are duly authorised to accord it. Poultry consists of chickens,
geese, ducks, and turkeys, while some persons class pigeons as poultry.
Birds are dietetically
divided into three classes: (1) the white-fleshed, as the common fowl and the
turkey; (2) the dark-fleshed game, as the grouse and the black-cock; and (3) the
aquatic (including swimmers and waders), as the goose and the duck; the flesh of
the latter is penetrated with fat, and difficult of digestion.
OF THE QUANTITY OF GAME, RABBITS, AND
POULTRY, SOLD IN THE STREETS.
It appears from
inquiries that I instituted, and from authentic returns which I procured on the
subject, that the following is the quantity of game and poultry sold yearly, as
an average, in the markets of the metropolis. I give it exclusive of such birds
as wild-ducks, woodcocks, &c., the supply of which depends upon the severity
of the winter. I include all wild birds or animals, whether considered game or
not, and I use round numbers, but as closely as possible.
During the past
Christmas, however, I may observe, that the supply of poultry to the markets has
been greater than on any previous occasion. The immensity of the supply was
favourable to the hawker's profit, as the glut enabled him to purchase both
cheaply and largely. One young poultry-hawker told me that he had cleared 3l.
in the Christmas week, and had spent it all in four days -except 5s. reserved
for stock-money. It was not spent entirely in drunkenness, a large
portion of it being
expended in treats and amusements. So great, indeed, has been the supply of game
and poultry this year, that a stranger, unused to the grand scale on which
provisions are displayed in the great metropolitan marts, on visiting
Leadenhall, a week before or after Christmas, might have imagined that the
staple food of the London population consisted of turkeys, geese, and chickens.
I give, however, an average yearly supply:
| Description. | Leadenhall. | Newgate. | Total. | Proportion sold in the Streets. |
| Game, &c. | ||||
| Grouse | 45,000 | 12,000 | 57,000 | One-eleventh. |
| Partridges | 85,000 | 60,000 | 145,000 | One-seventh. |
| Pheasants | 44,000 | 20,000 | 64,000 | One-fifth. |
| Snipes | 60,000 | 47,000 | 107,000 | One-twentieth. |
| Wild Birds | 40,000 | 20,000 | 60,000 | None. |
| Plovers | 28,000 | 18,000 | 46,000 | None. |
| Larks | 213,000 | 100,000 | 313,000 | None. |
| Teals | 10,000 | 5,000 | 15,000 | None. |
| Widgeons | 30,000 | 8,000 | 38,000 | None. |
| Hares | 48,000 | 55,000 | 102,000 | One-fifth. |
| Rabbits | 680,000 | 180,000 | 860,000 | Three-fourths. |
| 1,283,000 | 524,000 | 1,807,000 |
|
|
| Poultry. | ||||
| Domestic Fowls | 1,266,000 | 490,000 | 1,756,000 | One-third. |
| (alive) | 45,000 | 15,000 | 60,000 | One-tenth. |
| Geese | 888,000 | 114,000 | 1,002,000 | One-fifth. |
| Ducks | 235,000 | 148,000 | 383,000 | One-fourth. |
| (alive) | 20,000 | 20,000 | 40,000 | One-tenth. |
| Turkeys | 69,000 | 55,000 | 124,000 | One-fourth. |
| Pigeous | 285,000 | 98,000 | 383,000 | None. |
| 2,808,000 | 940,000 | 3,748,000 | ||
| Game, &c | 1,283,000 | 524,000 | 1,807,000 | |
| 4,091,000 | 1,464,000 | 5,555,000 |
The man who gave me
the following information was strong and robust, and had a weatherbeaten look.
He seemed about fifty. He wore when I saw him a large velveteen jacket, a cloth
waistcoat which had been once green, and brown corduroy trousers. No part of his
attire, though it seemed old, was patched, his shirt being clean and white. He
evidently aimed at the gamekeeper style of dress. He affected some humour, and
was dogged in his opinions:
"I was a
gentleman's footman when I was a young man," he said, "and saw life
both in town and country; so I knows what things belongs." [A common phrase
among persons of his class to denote their being men of the world.] "I
never liked the confinement of service,
and besides the upper servants takes on so. The others puts up with it more than
they would, I suppose, because they hopes to be butlers themselves in time. The
only decent people in the house I lived in last was master and missus. I won 20l.,
and got it too, on the Colonel, when he won the Leger. Master was a bit of a
turf gentleman, and so we all dabbled -like master like man, you know, sir. I
think that was in 1828, but I'm not certain. We came to London not long after
Doncaster" [he meant Doncaster races], "something about a lawsuit, and
that winter I left service and bought the goodwill of a coffee-shop for 25l.
It didn't answer. I wasn't up to the coffee-making, I think; there's a deal of
things belongs to all things; so I got out of it, and after that I was in
service again, and then I was a boots at an inn. But I couldn't settle to
nothing long; I'm of a free spirit, you see. I was hard up at last, and I popped
my watch for a sovereign, because a friend of mine -we sometimes drank together
of a night -said he could put me in the pigeon and chicken line; that was what
he called it, but it meant game. This just suited me, for I'd been out with the
poachers when I was a lad, and indeed when I was in service, out of a night on
the sly; so I knew they got stiffish prices. My friend got me the pigeons. I
believe he cheated me, but he's gone to glory. The next season game was made
legal eating. Before that I cleared from 25s. to 40s. a week by
selling my `pigeons.' I carried real pigeons as well, which I said was my own
rearing at Gravesend. I sold my game pigeons -there was all sorts of names for
them -in the City, and sometimes in the Strand, or Charing-cross, or
Covent-garden. I sold to shopkeepers. Oft enough I've been offered so much tea
for a hare. I sometimes had a hare in each pocket, but they was very awkward
carriage; if one was sold, the other sagged so. I very seldom sold them, at that
time, at less than 3s. 6d., often 4s. 6d., and
sometimes 5s. or more. I once sold a thumping old jackhare to a draper
for 6s.; it was Christmas time, and he thought it was a beauty. I went
into the country after that, among my friends, and had a deal of ups and downs
in different parts. I was a navvy part of the time, till five or six year back I
came to London again, and got into my old trade; but it's quite a different
thing now. I hawks grouse, and every thing, quite open. Leadenhall and Newgate
is my markets. Six of one and half-a-dozen of t'other. When there's a great
arrival of game, after a game battle" (he would so call a battue)
"and it's-warm weather, that's my time of day, for then I can buy cheap. A
muggy day, when it's close and warm, is best of all. I have a tidy bit of
connection now in game, and don't touch poultry when I can get game. Grouse is
the first thing I get to sell. They are legal eating on the 12th of August, but
as there's hundreds of braces sold in London that day, and as they're shot in
Scotland and Yorkshire, and other places where there's moors, in course they're
killed before it's legal. It's not often I can get them early in the season; not
the first week, but I have had three brace two days before they were legal, and
sold them at 5s. a brace; they cost me 3s. 3d., but I was
told I was favoured. I got them of a dealer, but that's a secret. I sold a few
young partridges with grouse this year at 1s. 6d. and 1s. 9d.
a piece, allowing 2d. or 3d. if a brace was taken. They weren't
legal eating till the 1st of September, but they was shot by grouse shooters,
and when I hawked them I called them quails. Lord, sir, gentlefolks -and I serve
a good many, leastways their cooks, and now and then themselves -they
don't make a fuss about Game Laws; they've too much sense. I've bought grouse
quite fresh and fine when there's been a lot, and bad keeping weather, at 1s.
and 15d. each. I've sold them sometimes at 1s. 6d. and 2s.
each, and 2s. 6d. the big ones, but only twice or thrice. If you
ask very low at first, people won't buy, only a few good judges, 'cause they
think something must be amiss. I once bought a dozen good hares, on a Saturday
afternoon, for 10s. 6d. It was jolly hot, and I could hardly sell
them. I got 1s. 6d. a piece for three of them; 2s. for the
finest one; 1s. 3d. for five, no, for four; 1s. 10d.
for two; and I had a deal of trouble to get a landlord to take the last two for
1s. 6d., to wipe off a bit of a drink score. I didn't do so bad as
it was, but if it hadn't been Saturday, I should have made a good thing of 'em.
It's very hard work carrying a dozen hares; and every one of that lot -except
two, and they was fine leverets -was as cheap as butcher's meat at
half-a-crown a piece. I've done middling in partridges this year. I've bought
them, but mixed things they was, as low as from 10d. to 16d. a
brace, and have made a profit, big or little as happened, on every one. People
that's regular customers I always charge 6d. profit in 2s. 6d.
to, and that's far cheaper than they can get served other ways. It's chiefly the
game battles that does so much to cheapen partridges or peasants" (so he
always called pheasants); "and it's only then I meddles with peasants.
They're sold handier than the other birds at the shops, I think. They're legal
eating on the 1st of October. Such nonsense! why isn't mutton made legal eating,
only just at times, as well? In very hard weather I've done well on wild ducks.
They come over here when the weather's a clipper, for you see cold weather suits
some birds and kills others. It aint hard weather that's driven them here; the
frost has drawed them here, because it's only then they're cheap. I've bought
beauties at 1s. a piece, and one day I cleared 10s. 6d. out
of twelve brace of them. I've often cleared 6s. and 7s. -at least
as often as there's been a chance. I knew a man that did uncommon well on them;
and he once told a parson, or a journeyman parson, I don't know what he was,
that if ever he prayed it was for a hard winter and lots of wild ducks.
I've done a little sometimes in plover, and woodcock, and snipe, but not so much. I never plays no tricks with my birds. I
trims them up to look well, certainly. If they won't keep, and won't sell, I
sticks them into a landlord I knows, as likes them high, for a quartern or a
pot, or anything. It's often impossible to keep them. If they're hard hit it's
soon up with them. A sportsman, if he has a good dog -but you'll know that if
you've ever been a shooting, sir -may get close upon a covey of young partridges
before he springs them, and then give them his one, two, with both barrels, and
they're riddled to bits. I may make 18s. a week all the year round,
because I have a connection. I'm very much respected, I thinks, on my round, for
I deal fair; that there, sir, breeds respect, you know. When I can't get game
(birds) I can sometimes, indeed often, get hares, and mostly rabbits. I've
hawked venson, but did no good - though I cried it at 4d. the lb. My best
weeks is worth 30s. to 35s., my worst is 6s. to 10s.
I'm a good deal in the country, working it. I'm forced to sell fish sometimes.
Geese I sometimes join a mate in selling. I don't mix much with the
costermongers; in coorse I knows some. I live middling. Do I ever eat my own
game if it's high? No, sir, never. I couldn't stand such cag-mag -my stomach
couldn't -though I've been a gentleman's servant. Such stuff don't suit nobody
but rich people, whose stomach's diseased by over-feeding, and that's been
brought up to it, like. I've only myself to keep now. I've had a wife or two,
but we parted" (this was said gravely enough); "there was nothing to
hinder us. I see them sometimes and treat them."
The quantity of game
annually sold in the London streets is as follows: -
|
Grouse |
5,000 |
|
Partridges |
20,000 |
|
Pheasants |
12,000 |
|
Snipes |
5,000 |
|
Hares |
20,000 |
Two brothers, both
good-looking and wellspoken young men -one I might characterise as handsome
-gave me the following account. I found them unwilling to speak of their youth,
and did not press them. I was afterwards informed that their parents died within
the same month, and that the family was taken into the workhouse; but the two
boys left it in a little time, and before they could benefit by any schooling.
Neither of them could read or write. They left, I believe, with some little sum
in hand, to "start theirselves." An intelligent costermonger, who was
with me when I saw the two brothers, told me that "a costermonger would
rather be thought to have come out of prison than out of a workhouse," for
his "mates" would say, if they heard he had been locked up, "O,
he's only been quodded for pitching into a crusher." The two brothers wore
clean smock country frocks over their dress, and made a liberal display of their
clean, but coarse, shirts. It was on a Monday that I saw them. What one brother
said, the other confirmed: so I use the plural "we."
"We sell poultry
and game, but stick most to poultry, which suits our connection best. We buy at
Leadenhall. We're never cheated in the things we buy; indeed, perhaps, we
could'nt be. A salesman will say -Mr. H -will - `Buy, if you like, I can't
recommend them. Use your own judgment. They're cheap.' He has only one price,
and that's often a low one. We give from 1s. to 1s. 9d. for
good chickens, and from 2s. 6d. mostly for geese and turkeys.
Pigeons is 1s. 9d. to 3s. a dozen. We aim at 6d.
profit on chickens; and 1s., if we can get it, or 6d. if we can do
no better, on geese and turkeys. Ducks are the same as chickens. All the year
through, we may make 12s. a week a piece. We work together, one on one
side of the street and the other on the other. It answers best that way. People
find we can't undersell one another. We buy the poultry, whenever we can,
undressed, and dress them ourselves; pull the feathers off and make them ready
for cooking. We sell cheaper than the shops, or we couldn't sell at all. But you
must be known, to do any trade, or people will think your poultry's bad. We work
game as well, but mostly poultry. We've been on hares to-day, mostly, and have
made about 2s. 6d. a piece, but that's an extra day. Our best
customers are tradesmen in a big way, and people in the houses a little way out
of town. Working people don't buy of us now. We're going to a penny gaff
to-night" (it was then between four and five); "we've no better way of
spending our time when our day's work is done."
From the returns
before given, the street-sale of poultry amounts yearly to
500,000 fowls.
80,000 ducks.
20,000 geese.
30,000 turkeys.
OF THE STREET SALE OF LIVE POULTRY.
The street trade in
live poultry is not considerable, and has become less considerable every year,
since the facilities of railway conveyance have induced persons in the suburbs
to make their purchases in London rather than of the hawkers. Geese used to be
bought very largely by the hawkers in Leadenhall, and were driven in flocks to
the country, 500 being a frequent number of a flock. Their sale commenced about
six miles from town in all directions, the purchasers being those who, having
the necessary convenience, liked to fatten their own Christmas geese, and the
birds when bought were small and lean. A few flocks, with 120 or 150 in each,
are still disposed of in this way; but the trade is not a fifth of what it was.
As this branch of the business is not in the hands of the hawkers, but generally
of country poulterers resident in the towns not far from the metropolis, I need
but allude to it. A few flocks of ducks are driven in the same way.
The
street trade in live poultry continues only for three months -from the latter
part of June to the latter part of September. At this period, the hawkers say,
as they can't get "dead" they must get "live." During these
three months the hawkers sell 500 chickens and 300 ducks weekly, by hawking, or
10,400 in the season of 13 weeks. Occasionally, as many as 50 men and women -the
same who hawk dead game and poultry -are concerned in the traffic I am treating
of. At other times there are hardly 30, and in some not 20 so employed, for if
the weather be temperate, dead poultry is preferred to live by the hawkers.
Taking the average of "live" sellers at 25 every week, it gives only a
trade of 32 birds each weekly. Some, however, will sell 18 in a day; but others,
who occasionally resort to the trade, only a dozen in a week. The birds are
sometimes carried in baskets on the hawker's arm, their heads being let through
network at the top; but more frequently they are hawked in open wicker-work
coops carried on the head. The best live poultry are from Surrey and Sussex; the
inferior from Ireland, and perhaps more than three-fourths of that sold by the
hawkers is Irish.
The further nature of
the trade, and the class of customers, is shown in the following statement,
given to me by a middle-aged man, who had been familiar with the trade from his
youth.
"Yes, sir,"
he said, "I've had a turn at live poultry for -let me see -someways between
twenty and twenty-five years. The business is a sweater, sir; it's heavy work,
but `live' aint so heavy as `dead.' There's fewer of them to carry in a round,
that's it. Ah! twenty years ago, or better, live poultry was worth following. I
did a good bit in it. I've sold 160 fowls and ducks. and more, in a week, and
cleared about 4l. But out of that I had to give a man 1s. a day,
and his peck, to help me. At that time I sold my ducks and chickens -I worked
nothing else -at from 2s. to 3s. 6d. a piece, according to
size and quality. Now, if I get from 14d. to 2s. it's not so bad.
I sell more, I think, however, over 1s. 6d. than under it, but I'm
perticler in my `live.' I never sold to any but people out of town that had
convenience to keep them, and Lord knows, I've seen ponds I could jump over
reckoned prime for ducks. Them that keeps their gardens nice won't buy live
poultry. I've seldom sold to the big houses anything like to what I've done to
the smaller. The big houses, you see, goes for fancy bantems, such as Sir John
Seabright's, or Spanish hens, or a bit of a game cross, or real game -just for
ornament, and not for fighting -or for anything that's got its name up. I've
known young couples buy fowls to have their breakfast eggs from them. One young
lady told me to bring her -that's fifteen year ago, it is so -six couples, that
I knew would lay. I told her she'd better have five hens to a cock, and she
didn't seem pleased, but I'm sure I don't know why, for I hope I'm always civil.
I told her there would be murder if there was a cock to every hen. I supplied
her, and made 6s. by the job. I have sold live fowls to the Jews
about Whitechapel, on my way to Stratford and Bow, but only when I've bought a
bargain and sold one. I don't know nothing how the Jews kills their fowls. Last
summer I didn't make 1s. 6d. a day; no, nor more than three
half-crowns a week in `live.' But that's only part of my trade. I don't
complain, so it's nothing to nobody what I makes. From Beever (De Beauvoir) Town
to Stamford Hill, and on to Tottenham and Edmonton, and turning off Walthamstow
way is as good a round as any for live; it is so; but nothing to what it was.
Highgate and Hampstead is middling. The t'other side the water isn't good at
all."
Fancy chickens, I may
add, are never hawked, nor are live pigeons, nor geese, nor turkeys.
The hawkers' sale of
live poultry may be taken, at a moderate computation, as 6,500 chickens, and
3,900 ducks.
OF RABBIT SELLING IN THE STREETS.
Rabbit-selling cannot
be said to be a distinct branch of costermongering, but some streetsellers
devote themselves to it more exclusively than to other "goods," and,
for five or six months of the year, sell little else. It is not often, though it
is sometimes, united with the game or poultry trade, as a stock of rabbits, of a
dozen or a dozen and a half, is a sufficient load for one man. The best sale for
rabbits is in the suburbs. They are generally carried slung two and two on a
long pole, which is supported on the man's shoulders, or on a short one which is
carried in the hand. Lately, they have been hawked about hung up on a barrow.
The trade is the briskest in the autumn and winter months; but some men carry
them, though they do not confine themselves to the traffic in them, all the year
round. The following statement shows the nature of the trade.
"I was born and
bred a costermonger," he said, "and I've been concerned with
everything in the line. I've been mostly `on rabbits' these five or six years,
but I always sold a few, and now sometimes I sell a hare or two, and, if rabbits
is too dear, I tumble on to fish. I buy at Leadenhall mainly. I've given from 6s.
to 14s. a dozen for my rabbits. The usual price is from 5s. to 8s.
a dozen. [I may remark that the costers buy nearly all the Scotch rabbits, at an
average of 6s. the dozen; and the Ostend rabbits, which are a shilling or
two dearer.] They're Hampshire rabbits; but I don't know where Hampshire is. I
know they're from Hampshire, for they're called `Wild Hampshire rabbits, 1s:
a pair.' But still, as you say, that's only a call. I never sell a rabbit at 6d.,
in course -it costs more. My way in business is to get 2d. profit, and
the skin, on every rabbit. If they cost me 8d., I try to get 10d. It's
the skins is the profit. The skins now brings me from 1s. to 1s. 9d.
a dozen. They're best in frosty weather. The fur's thickest then. It grows best
in frost, I suppose. If I sell a dozen, it's a tidy day's work. If I get 2d. a-piece on them, and the skins at 1s. 3d.,
it's 3s. 3d., but I dont sell above 5 dozen in a week -that's 16s.
3d. a week, sir, is it? Wet and dark weather is against me. People won't
often buy rabbits by candlelight, if they're ever so sweet. Some weeks in spring
and summer I can't sell above two dozen rabbits. I have sold two dozen and ten
on a Saturday in the country, but then I had a young man to help me. I sell the
skins to a warehouse for hatters. My old 'oman works a little fish at a stall
sometimes, but she only can in fine weather, for we've a kid that can hardly
walk, and it don't do to let it stand out in the cold. Perhaps I may make 10s.
to 14s. a week all the year round. I'm paying 1s. a week for 1l.
borrowed, and paid 2s. all last year; but I'll pay no more after
Christmas. I did better on rabbits four or five year back, because I sold more
to working-people and small shopkeepers than I do now. I suppose it's because
they're not so well off now as they was then, and, as you say, butchers'-meat
may be cheaper now, and tempts them. I do best short ways in the country.
Wandsworth way ain't bad. No more is parts of Stoke-Newington and Stamford-hill.
St. John's Wood and Hampstead is middling. Hackney's bad. I goes all ways. I
dont know what sort of people's my best customers. Two of 'em, I've been told,
is banker's clerks, so in course they is rich."
There are 600,000
rabbits sold every year in the streets of London; these, at 7d. a-piece,
give 17,500l. thus expended annually in the metropolis.
OF THE STREET SALE OF BUTTER, CHEESE,
AND EGGS.
All these commodities
used to be hawked in the streets, and to a considerable extent. Until, as nearly
as I can ascertain, between twenty and thirty years back, butter was brought
from Epping, and other neighbouring parts, where good pasture existed, and
hawked in the streets of London, usually along with poultry and eggs. This trade
is among the more ancient of the street-trades. Steam-vessels and railways,
however, have so stocked the markets, that no hawking of butter or eggs, from
any agricultural part, even the nearest to London, would be remunerative now.
Eggs are brought in immense quantities from France and Belgium, though thirty,
or even twenty years ago the notion having of a good French egg, at a London
breakfast-table, would have been laughed at as an absurd attempt at an
impossible achievement. The number of eggs now annually imported into this
kingdom, is 98,000,000, half of which may be said to be the yearly consumption
of London. No butter is now hawked, but sometimes a few "new laid"
eggs are carried from a rural part to the nearest metropolitan suburb, and are
sold readily enough, if the purveyor be known. Mr. McCulloch estimates the
average consumption of butter, in London, at 6,250,000 lbs. per annum, or 5 oz.,
weekly, each individual.
The hawking of cheese
was never a prominent part of the street-trade. Of late, its sale in the
streets, may be described as accidental. A considerable quantity of American
cheese was hawked, or more commonly sold at a standing, five or six years ago;
unto December last, and for three months preceding, cheese was sold in the
streets which had been rejected from Government stores, as it would not
"keep" for the period required; but it was good for immediate
consumption, for which all streetgoods are required. This, and the American
cheese, were both sold in the streets at 3d. the pound; usually, at fair
weights, I am told, for it might not be easy to deceive the poor in a thing of
such frequent purchase as "half a quarter or a quarter" (of a pound)
of cheese.
The total quantity of
foreign cheese consumed, yearly, in the metropolis may be estimated at
25,000,000 lbs. weight, or half of the gross quantity annually imported.
The following
statement shows the quantity and sum paid for the game and poultry sold in
London streets:
| £ | |
| 5,000 grouse, at 1s. 9d. each | 437 |
| 20,000 partridges, at 1s. 6d. | 1,500 |
| 12,000 pheasants, at 3s. 6d. | 2,100 |
| 5,000 snipes, at 8d. | 160 |
| 20,000 hares, at 2s. 3d. | 2,250 |
| 600,000 rabbits, at 7d. | 17,500 |
| 500,000 fowls, at 1s. 6d. | 37,500 |
| 20,000 geese, at 2s. 6d. | 2,500 |
| 80,000 ducks, at 1s. 6d. | 6,000 |
| 30,000 turkeys, at 3s. 6d. | 5,250 |
| 10,000 live fowls and ducks, at 1s. 6d. | 750 |
| £75,953 |