CHAPTER XV
HUMBLE INDUSTRIES
Many varieties of industry, of industry that makes
millionaires, and industry that just holds body and soul together, will come
under the notice of the London Pilgrim who will explore London east of the Royal
Exchange. In the heart of the city there is one outward form of feverish
activity. Barter, speculation, vast enterprise, the sending forth of fleets, the
sinking of mines, the negotiating of loans, the laying down of leagues of
railway, the buying and selling of gold and silver, occupy the well-dressed
multitudes. The clerk's outward man has as prosperous a seeming as that of his
employer who lives in the West, and has a duke for a next door neighbour. Behind
many of the groups are very dismal shabby-genteel stories, no doubt; but nothing
save prosperous, shiny broadcloth, glossy hats, and decorated button-holes are
apparent in the street. Here are no pinched cheeks or ragged limbs, except when
shadows from the East are slipping timorously through the golden realm, to earn
a crust, or beg one, in the West. The abounding refreshment places, from the
dark and greasy old gridiron chop-houses in the lanes, to the modern finery and
luxury of lunch at the Palmerston, or in ancient Crosby Hall (one of the most
picturesque bits of old and modern London massed and mingled in one pictures, as
it struck my fellow pilgrim one busy morning), all are packed with hurrying men,
eager to eat and drink, and confident about the wherewithal. London abounds in
startling contrasts.
These stately arcades of the Royal Exchange, defaced, it must
be admitted, by unsightly advertisements, with Her Majesty holding the
centre of the Quadrangle; are but a few minutes' walk from the Market, the
Exchange, of rags! Here the princes of finance buy and sell thousands with a nod
of the head; or lunch while they bid , at Lloyd's, for an Australian clipper. We
travel East, and at once come upon speculators of another world, merchants for
whom nothing is too small, or mean, or repulsive.
The violent contrasts of London life struck Addison, as still
they strike every close observer. But in his day the contrasts were not so
crowded together as they are now; and the poor were not in such imposing
legions. Among the watchmakers and jewellers of Clerkenwell; the starveling
descendants of the Spitalfields weavers; the cabinet makers and workers in wood,
by the Aldersgate Street purlieus; the Teutons who bake and refine sugar in
Whitechapel; the unsavoury leather workers of Bermondsey; the shoemakers of
Shoreditch and Drury Lane; the potters of Lambeth; are hosts of shiftless,
hopeless victims of the fierce competition and the overcrowded labour market:
the slop-workers, needlewomen, street vendors, mountebanks, sharpers, beggars,
and thieves, who disgrace our civilisation by their sufferings or their
misdeeds.
The extremes lie close together. How many minutes' walk have
we between St. Swithin's Lane, and that low gateway of the world-famed
millionaire; and this humble authority in Exchanges, in materials for
shoddy, in left-off clothes cast aside by the well-to-do, to be passed with due
considertaion and profit to the backs of the poor? The old clothesman's children
are rolling about upon his greasy treasure, while he, with his heavy silver
spectacles poised upon his hooked nose, takes up each item and estimates it to a
farthing.
East from the City, to the heart of Shoreditch and
Whitechapel, is one of the walks which best repay the London visitor. The
quaint, dirty, poverty laden, stall-lined streets are here and there relieved by
marts and warehouses and emporiums, in which rich men who employ the poorest
labour, are housed. It is an ancient neighbourhood, as some of the overhanging
houses proclaim; and it remains a picturesque one, with the infinitely various
lines and contrivances of the shops and stalls, and gaudy inns and public
houses; the overhanging clothes, the mounds of vegetables, the piles of
hardware, the confused heaps of fish, all cast about to catch the pence of the
bonnetless dishevelled women, the heavy navvies, and the shoeless children. The
German, the Jew, the Frenchman, the Lascar, the swarthy native of Spitalfields,
the leering thin-handed thief, the bully of his court, the silly-Billy of the
neighbourhood, on whom the neighbourhood is merciless, with endless swarms of
ragged children, fill road and pavement. The Jewish butchers lounge, fat and
content, in their doorways; the costermongers drive their barrows slowly by,
filling the air with their hoarse voices. The West End Londoner is as completely
in a strange land as any traveller from the Continent. A saunter through the
extensive vegetable market of Spitalfields; a turn in Houndsditch, by
Bishopsgate Church; a pause where Whitechapel joins Aldgate, under the splendid
auspices of Messrs. Moses and Sons, employers of these pale work-folk who flit
to and fro under our eyes, or a trip in the heavily charged atmosphere of
Rosemary Lane, where the flat, stale odour of old clothes soon unnerves the too
curious observer; and so out upon the tea and colonial grandees of America
Square and Mincing Lane, will reveal a new world of London to many a Cockney who
thought he knew the great City well. The grandest and noblest spectacles of
commerce, touch the basest and most heart-breaking: the Captain of the Indiaman
elbows the sweater from the clothes mart, and the Fagin of the Shadwell fence.
Within sight of home-sailing fleets, the needlewoman who puts together cheap
finery for the Sunday wear of the shop-boy, works her heart out. Yet throughout
this neighbourhood, that is, in the open, there is a valiant cheeriness
full of strength. The humours of the place are rough and coarse, as the
performances in the penny gaffs and public house sing-songs testify; but there
is everywhere a readiness to laugh. The vendor of old clothes, who addresses the
bystanders in Houndsditch, throws jests into his address. Cheap-jack must be a
humourist, let him appear where he may, in England. The gallantry of the cheap
butcher who cries "buy-buy-buy" the live-long day, to customers who
market with pence, is proverbial. The veriest slattern is "my dear,"
to him; and he recommends an indescribable pile of scraps with an airy
compliment or two, not unwelcome to the shrivelled ear that receives them.
The dealers on the pavement patter in the liveliest fashion, recommending pots
and gridirons, strings of onions, lucifers, cabbages, whelks, oysters, and
umbrellas, by lively appeals to the good humour of the passers by. The man who
has a ready wit will empty his basket, while the dull vendor remains with his
arms crossed.
That which most astonishes the watcher of the industries of
the poor, is the fertility of invention that never slackens. In a low
lodging-house by Shadwell, which we entered late one February night, in
the midst of the hurly-burly, herring-frying, gambling, and singing, a poor old
man was making card-board railway carriages, for sale in the streets. I remarked
that this was something new.
"Yes, sir," he said, lifting the side of a carriage
with his gummed pencil as he spoke, for he could not afford to lose a moment,
"Yes, sir: they won't look at stage-coaches now. Yer see, the young uns
don't know `em: so I've took to these 'ere; and they takes 'em readily."
The Fashion of the West ripples faintly even here, by the
walls of the Docks, and at the kerb by the Standard Theatre, and along the line
of old Ratcliff Highway. It has established penny ices, for which the juvenile
population exhibit astonishing voracity, in all the poor districts of the
Metropolis.
Wherever we have travelled in crowded places of the working
population, we have found the pcnny ice-man doing a brisk trade, even when his
little customers were blue with the cold. The popular ice-vendor is the
fashionable rival of the ginger-beer hawker, an old, familiar London figure. The
ginger-beer man, in the presence of this recent competition, curses, no doubt,
the uncertain whim of the public mind, as the old coachman cursed the engine
driver; but the penny ice has proved too strong for the ancient
ginger-beer bottle, lying in orderly rows upon the substantial stall. The
ginger-beer merchant of to-day must move
with the times: and this is how we saw him gesticulating and pattering one
sultry morning to the thirsty crowd of the New Cut!
"The Best Drink Out!" was his perpetual cry:
"the best drink out" being duly iced to meet the educated taste of his
shoeless customers.
"There really isn't any knowing what we shall come
to," said an intelligent New Cut dealer, who was fast disposing of immense
mounds of cabbages and lettuces. "Just look how common pines have become,
at a penny a slice. In my young days no such thing as a pine had been seen in
any market except Covent Garden. But the worst of it is", the man
continued, following out his practical line of thought,
"the worst of it is while what I call luxuries get cheaper every season,
necessities, the things a man must have, get dearer. These are curious times,
gentlemen; and we must keep up to them, or go to the wall. People want so many
more things than they did when I was a lad. You see, as I said before, cheap
luxuries and dear necessities are the cause of all the mischief. I don't know
how it's to be helped: it isn't my business, but I see the mistake plain enough,
when the crowds in rags are collecting round the new-fangled ginger-beer and
penny-ice men."
And the philosopher filled a bonnetless woman's apron with
cabbages, when she had critically felt the heart of each, deeply anxious about
her utmost pennyworth.