II. SQUALORS' MARKET.
EXACTLY opposite each other stands a
church and a gin-palace. The former is dedicated to St. Luke, the latter to his
head merely, and stands sentinel at the corner of Squalors' Market. Just as it
was growing dusk, and the potman pertaining to the palace was kindling the
gorgeous outside lamps, I passed under his tall ladder and into the narrow and
sinuous thoroughfare.
The business of the evening was yet
young. The naphtha man's white horse, harnessed in the evil-smelling cart, was
still in the highway, and the naphtha man, carrying his big can and clinking his
measures, had still a goodish many stall-keepers to serve; the secondhand
shoeseller was busily arranging along the kerb, and in single file, his
dissipated regiment of "wellingtons" and "bluchers,"
administering a little more blacking to this one to make its patches seem less
patchy, and solicitously patting and caressing that whose constitution was so
fatally undermined that, for all its blooming appearance, it would succumb
before a day's wear, and part body and sole; the Hebrew who sold cloth caps and
slippers was idly chatting with the Hebrew who, having nicely arranged his
brummagem jewellery, had nothing else (but customers) to do; the
"unfortunate miner" was, with his afflicted wife, partaking of a final
whet of rum at the " Black Boy" before taking their stand, their five
sleekly-combed but starving children for the present larking in the gutter,
while from out the horrible courts and alleys-head-quarters of fever and
pestilence--came pouring great stores of cabbages and turnips, and fruit and
shell-fish-the latter looking none the more refreshed for their night's repose
beneath the truckle bedstead, and the former yet tearful from their long soaking
in grimy tubs in the cellar. Besides these, there likewise streamed out from the
courts and alleys " trotters" and hot penny puddings, and "ham
sandwiches," for the delight of the most dainty of the thousand, who would
presently crowd every inch of road and footway.
Of the two hundred and twenty houses of
which Squalors' Market is composed, one in every thirteen is devoted to the sale
of intoxicating liquors, and it must be borne in mind that in this calculation
are not included several public houses that, skulking in crooked chinks and
under dark archways, although deprived of the manifest advantages enjoyed by
their seventeen brethren in the open highway, yet by means of a beckoning claw
in shape of a signboard, affixed at the mouth of the court or alley, "To
the George and Dragon," " Back way to the Chip in Porridge,"
&c., manage to trap many drinkers of the sly and sneaking sort.
That bread even is less in demand in
Squalors' Market than gin and beer is demonstrated by the fact that but ten
bakers' shops can there find support. The catsmeat interest is liberally
represented, no less than five establishments of that character flourishing in
the market. How is this ? Do the squalid court and alley dwellers, with their
proverbial extravagance, each keep a cat? or- No; the supposition is too
dreadful. Besides, it should be fairly stated that the five horse-flesh dealers
vend sheep's heads, split and baked, and the livers of bullocks, and other
offal.
The butchers of Squalors' Market number
two less than the gin and beer sellers, and are, dear reader, by no means quiet,
well-behaved creatures, such as you are acquainted with. Your butcher wears a
hat, generally a genteel hat, and a blue coat, and a respectable apron; perhaps,
even snowy sleeves and shiny boots, and a nice bit of linen collar above his
neckerchief. You give your orders and he receives them decorously, and wishes
you good morning as you quit his neatly-arranged and sawdusted shop. Contrasted
with him the butcher of Squalors' Market is a madman-a raving lunatic. He
unscrews the burners of his gaspipes, and creates great spouts of flame that
roar and waver in the wind in front of his shamble-like premises, endangering
the hats of short pedestrians and the whiskers of tall ones; far out from his
shop, and attached to roasting-jacks, revolve monstrous pigs' heads and big
joints of yellow veal, spiked all over like a porcupine with figure-bearing
tickets, that announce the few pence per pound for which the meat may be bought.
He wears on his head a cap made of the hairy hide of the bison or some other
savage beast; his red arms are bare to the elbows, and he roars continuously,
"Hi-hi! weigh away-weigh away! the rosy meat at three-and-half! Hi-hi!
"-clashing his broad knife against his steel to keep time. How is it that
my butcher is charging me 9d. per lb. for leg of mutton, while Mr. Blolam, here,
is charging only 4 d. ? Is my butcher a rogue, or is Mr. Blolam going headlong
to the debtors' prison at the end of his street ? I know my butcher to be an
honest fellow, and to judge from appearances, Mr. B. is not the man to bring his
sleek, redhanded wife and his glossy children to grief, either by reckless
trading or excessive charity. This being the case, let the court and alley
dwellers thereabout, rather than regret, rejoice and thank their lucky stars
that they have no money wherewith to trade with Mr. Blolam.
The business of the market grows with
the night. First come the decent folk-men and their wives, with the chief
olive-branch to carry the big basket. Shrewd people are these early birds with
an eye to plump worms. It is not, however, till it has grown quite dark, and the
gas is lit, and great tongues of naphtha flame start from crazy lamps, and
scorch and lap up the living air greedily, that the buyers come shoaling in.
Then the fruit and vegetable mongers give tongue, and roar the quality and price
of their various wares with a bullying air, and the brummagem Hebrew jabbers of
his rings and brooches; and the secondhand shoeman, having beguiled a gentleman
to take off his boot and " try something on," keeps him standing on
one leg in the mud (and so he will be kept till he consents to buy a pair of
shoes); and the miner and his family, ranged in a row, chant their necessities.
Strolling through the market out of
market hours the dearth of fishmongers at once struck you. True, there are
fishshops, five or six of them, but the dealings of the proprietors are almost
entirely confined to vending the article in a dried or fried state, one or two
of them dabbling in shrimps and periwinkles. Where, however, is the fresh
fish-the plaice, the soles, the cod-of which, according to Billingsgate
statistics, at least one half of all that comes to market is consumed by the
very poorest of the London population ? Now, however, when the business of the
market is in full blast, the question no longer exists. Here is the fresh fish,
in broad fiat wicker baskets, slung round the neck, in solitary
"pads," standing in the mud, on little boards or trestles, lit up by a
feeble candle, and on great boards, eight or ten feet feet long and six broad,
standing on substantial legs, and lit by a great flaring naphtha lamp. The
owners of these broad boards are no mean fish-pedlars, standing dumbly behind
their wares till a customer happens to call. They are wholesale dealers, fish
auctioneers. As many people stand round the board as would fill the largest
fishmonger's shop in the metropolis. Yet, excepting a heap of copper money-half
a peck of it, probably-the board is quite clear. Surrounding the auctioneer,
however (who is dressed in corduroy trousers and blue guernsey shirt, the
sleeves of which are rolled above the elbows of his great hairy arms), is a
large number of "pads" of plaice, and, just behind him, is a big tub
full of water. One of his attendants (he generally has two) presently plunges
his arms into one of the "pads," brings out a couple of fish, souses
them into the water-tub, and then hands them to his master. Without paying the
least attention to the lookers-on the man coolly proceeds to disembowel the
fish, to chop through the backbone, to make them handy for the frying-pan, and
to thread them on a willow twig. All this while, and unsolicited, the people
round are bidding "Threeha'pence!" "tuppence !" " two-
un-arf! " " Yours, mum," observes the laconic fishman, handing
the fish to the "two-un-arf," and proceeding to disembowel and thread
two more. It was curious to observe the various countenances of the bidders and
buyers; the eagerness with which some women scrambled over the heads and
shoulders of their neighbours to get at their bargains, and with a look that
plainly said " the price of these will astonish my Jack, I'll be
bound;" while others parted with their halfpence regretfully, and as though
conscious of having been a little too hasty in their bidding. Worst of all,
however, were the gaunt women with their mites of shawls and ample aprons, and
with husband out of work and any number of children, looking out of their
anxious eyes as they watch the cutting up of the fish, and whether it be thick
or thin. That seems a likely lot! Shall they bid? Better not, perhaps; wait and
see the next lot. So they wait till ashamed to wait any longer, and take the
"next lot" and chance it.
It is, however, a great consolation to
know that these poor mothers may at the worst depend on ample value for their
precious halfpence. Soles and plaice were the fish chiefly dealt in by the
auctioneers, and the prices they realised were absolutely ridiculous. Soles, for
a pair of which Mr. Greves would charge half-a-crown, were disposed of, after a
by no means spirited bidding, for threepence-halfpenny. Touching the cheapness
of plaice, I can't do better than quote an instance to which I was an
eyewitness. A monstrous fellow, broad and thick as a turbot, was fished out of a
"pad," cleaned, gutted, and made ready for the pan, and, after all,
the price it brought was fourpence. " If you aint got him at a 'apenny a
pound it's furny to me," observed the auctioneer, and a friendly potato
salesman's stall adjoining his, he put the fish in his scales. The potato-man
had no weights of less than a pound, but the fourpenny plaice asserted its
superiority to the seven-pound weight, and only consented to a balance when a
large potato was added and brought to bear against him.
It is a curious fact-and one more proof
of the extravagance of poverty-that in nine cases out of ten the fish purchased
was intended for the frying-pan, and not for the pot. It was easy to ascertain
this, as whenever a bidder wanted a fish to boil, she signified the same at the
time she made her bid. " Thrippence-for bilin !" some one would
exclaim; whereon the auctioneer would arrest the descent of his big
chopping-knife, and deliver the fish entire. Among the squalid poor the same
prejudice exists as regards mutton. Fish fried, and mutton baked or roast, if
you please; but as to boiling either, except when ordered by the doctor, the
practice is regarded as namby-pamby, and French.
This universal fish-frying is the key to
another mystery common to the neighbourhood. In every " general shop,"
in every rag and bone shop, in the high street, and in the hundred courts and
filthy alleys that worm in and out of it, may be seen solid slabs of a
tallowy-looking substance, and marked with a figure 6, 7, or 8, denoting that
for as many pence a pound weight of the suspicious-looking slab may be obtained.
It is bought in considerable quantities by the fish-eaters for frying purposes,
and is by them supposed to be simply and purely the fat dripping of roast and
baked meats, supplied to these shops by cooks, whose perquisite it is. This,
however, is a delusion. The villainous compound is manufactured. There is a
"dripping-maker" near Seabright Street, Bethnal Green, and another in
Backchurch Lane, Whitechapel, both flourishing men, and the owners of many carts
and sleek cattle. Mutton suet and boiled rice are the chief ingredients used in
the manufacture of the slabs, the gravy of bullocks' kidneys being stirred into
the mess when it is half cold, giving to the whole a mottled and natural
appearance.
"Mine uncle" of Squalors'
Market-at least, judging from the only specimen there to be seen-is a totally
different character from that generally represented. The pawnbroker elsewhere
found is a highly respectable person, smug and decorous of mien and subdued of
voice. His shop is the shop of an ordinary dealer in jewellery and other
articles of value, and he only insinuates his real business in the most delicate
way by means of a neat plate on his doorpost inscribed with an intimation that
he advances money on plate, jewels, &c., and that he has a fireproof room
for the safe keeping of your property. The pawnbroker before me, however, is a
tall, muscular man, with great brown hands, dressed in a shaggy pilot coat with
big bone buttons, and wearing his battered hat well off his expressive
countenance. He has none of the modesty peculiar to the craft about him, neither
is his shop a modest one, or unobtrusive, but a broad-awake and gas-lit place,
as open as any potato-warehouse in the market. Over the shop-front, in great
yellow letters, is inscribed the word "Pawnbroker," and the proprietor
stands in front of it-off the pavement, indeed, and in the road-surrounded by an
eager mob, and selling from a basket old odds and ends of wearing apparel, old
canvas for towelling, any rag of any sort or shape that will fetch even so low a
sum as a penny among the squalid bidders. " Here ye are," says he,
with the voice of a Channel pilot, as he dangles by the strings something made
of flannel; " here's a perricot! How much for the flannel perricot? 'Tant a
new un, and 'tant so far gone but the sides may be turned in the middle, and
kiver a body comfortable. Who ses sixpence ? Tuppence, eh? Thanky; s'pose you
buy taters with your money-it'll fetch more for 'ouse flannels. Goin' for
fippence !-fourpence! Sold agin, and got the money."
Where had I before seen this muscular
pawnbroker? At the dog-show? In the shell-fish department at Billingsgate? On
board a bumboat at Portsmouth? No; men very like him at each of the places
mentioned, but not he. Now I have it! That " sold again and got the
money," settled the point at once. It is a year ago, and he wore a blue
apron about his waist, and stood outside a sausage and cheap meat shop in this
very market, but the above words were the very ones he uttered as he tossed a
pickled pig's head to the young man behind the counter. Now that this
circumstance recurred to my memory I no longer wondered to find my friend a
pawnbroker! He had a hankering for it at the pig's head period, and kept,
besides the sausage-shop, a "leaving-shop," in Brick-lane, St. Luke's.
Does the good reader know the nature of
the "leaving" business? It requires no shop; any back room, cellar, or
hovel will suffice for it, and any rascal possessed of a few shillings can start
in it. It is a business that can flourish and grow fat in the midst of the most
appalling poverty-that does exist, and flourish, and fatten in a thousand alleys
and "slums" within the great city of London. It is a simple matter.
Being too lazy to work, and having somehow obtained a pound, I take an apartment
in a poverty-stricken locality, hang a few odds and ends in my window or against
my door-post and put up a ticket announcing that I deal in " ladies and
gentlemen's left-off wearing apparel." Presently some "lady" from
one of the swarming alleys, hard up for bread or gin, brings me an article of
her apparel, or perhaps a pair of still warm and muddy little boots, and
requests me to become a purchaser. But no, I am too humane for anything of the
kind. "Oh, don't sell the little boots, ma'am," say I; " take
them to the pawnbroker's and pledge them for a trifle." " Shure it's
no thrifle at all I can get on 'em at the parn-office," says my customer,
"because the heels are throd down so." "Well, look here,"
says I; " I'll lend you a shilling on the boots, and what's more, I'll keep
'em for a month, and you can have them back any time between this and then by
paying fourteen pence for them!" The news spreads like fever, and the
existence of the new "leaving-shop" is thoroughly knowh within a week.
Within a month of setting up I am doing a roaring trade. Everything too
insignificant for the licensed pawnbroker's round the corner is brought to me,
and I take the goods in pledge, the depositors well understanding that unless
redeemed in a month they are forfeited. As twopence on the shilling is the
long-established rate of interest demanded at the surrounding "leaving-
shops," of course I can't exact more; however, I do as they do- make up for
it on smaller sums. If I lend sixpence on a jacket, sevenpence halfpenny must be
paid me before it can be ransomed; and if I lend threepence on the Sunday knives
and forks or the Sunday baking-dish, nothing less than fourpence halfpenny
redeems it, though I may have held it but a few days or even hours. On the whole
I do a very snug business; and, what is more, I can defy all the Queen's orders
and all the Queen's men, for how can the law step between a man and his simple
buyings and sellings ?