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CHAPTER XXV
1861 - GREENWICH SIXTY YEARS SINCE
A straight road - Southern outfall sewer - Live British workmen - Winding and pumping engines - New Cross Road - Greenwich Hospital and its pensioners - Collegemen's chapel - Characteristic hymns - Hospital wards - Trafalgar model - Painted Hall - Changes in Hospital - Out pensions - Deplorable results - Empty Hospital - Removal of the Dreadnought.
GREENWICH is a peculiar town. It is longitudinal in a sense
quite distinct from the meridional, inasmuch as only one road for vehicular
traffic traverses it from west to east. If that should become blocked a detour
of miles via the Dover Road, Blackheath, and Maze Hill, would be obligatory in
order to travel on wheels between the western and the eastern hemispheres. The
widely- flung Park and Observatory would have to be doubled. This solitary
highway passes for about one-third of a mile between the Hospital with the river
behind it and the Naval School backed by the Park: a nice wide road bordered by
neither houses nor shops.
So, when the great southern outfall sewer was constructed
along it in the early 1860s a rare upset of traffic was experienced for three
weeks or a month. Yet the work was carried on with vigour by swarms of sturdy
navvies and willing - note the fact in 1924 - bricklayers. There was life in the
British workman of those days, and the present generation - or degeneration -
are simply consumers of the stores of prosperity he, by his hardihood, laid up.
In the short length from the Parish Church to East (now
Eastney) Street were employed four winding-engines to pull up and tip into carts
the soil excavated in the trench below; and two pumping-engines going day and
night, for [-204-] there was plenty of water to be
got rid of. The winding-engines had vertical boilers, and two of them
oscillating cylinders, like the Thames steamboats, which moved so fast when at
full speed that they could not be followed by the eye. Such oscillating winding
engines are quite unknown to-day. One of the pumps was also of unusual
construction; it was by Tuxford and Sons, Boston, Lincolnshire, and had a kind
of side-lever engine in a domed closed compartment, the doors of which had to be
opened for oiling purposes, occupying the usual position of the smoke-box. This
machine must have had a return flue, for the chimney was at the same end as the
furnace. She pumped at the corner of the classical Tea Pot Row (now Park Row)
for several weeks. As the work proceeded through Greenwich towards Charlton,
these half-dozen engines were shifted along and remained under my observation
for several months.
The huge brick sewer culvert was sometimes built up with
single bricks over wooden centering, but also, at places, of curved segments
containing many bricks (already set in wooden moulds) which were lowered and
mortared into place. As a rule, the spoil was removed in carts, but in the New
Cross Road near its junction with the Lewisham Road rails on sleepers were laid
and the rubbish taken away in trucks up the Lewisham Road. The Marquis of
Granby tavern standing at this point was for weeks the centre of an active
though temporary railway system.
Interest centred quite naturally a
good deal round the Hospital and its quaintly dressed denizens, then some
thirteen hundred in number, including a few survivors from Trafalgar. Many had
lost a limb. Indeed, there used to be an annual cricket-match between one-armed
and one- legged Collegemen, as the pensioners were termed locally. Some were
quite vigorous and followed odd employments in the town. A few married men even
maintained a little household outside the Hospital. One of these I came to know
slightly. He had a wife and one room in the now- demolished Clark's Buildings,
East Street; but, in my estimation, was chiefly remarkable for the possession of
a [-205-] grey-and-white Tom-cat of exceptional
intelligence and (when so minded) docility, which he had had the patience to
train in various un-cat-like directions. The animal was eventually lost or
stolen and the poor Collegeman was inconsolable.
There were many stages of senile decay, mental and physical,
among the pensioners; but most were able to go about, and of these specimens
were always to be found in the Park, down by the river, or on Blackheath, ready
to earn a little by yarning of battle, wreckage, and sudden death. Some did so
quite well and with every semblance of truth. Sad to say, many were also
untiring patrons of the numerous taverns in the vicinity-little pubs, some of
them, hidden up courts and alleys and often owning names calculated to attract
the old-time tars. I remember one, in East Street, called the Fortune of War,
which displayed a decently painted sign swinging over the doorway,
representing a jovial pensioner with two wooden legs quaffing from a
foam-surmounted quart pot clutched in his one remaining hand. In such places
Jack Collegeman would dowse his gum in liquor until quite broached to. But there
was strict discipline for drunkards within the Hospital gates. Alter a seafaring
life in the early 1 800s predilections towards grog and bacca were
understandable and excusable; it would have been almost as reasonable to blame
the needle for turning to the pole as the poor stranded Collegeman for loving
his beer, pipe and quid.
They were of all kinds, however. Many were religious, and of
their own free will went to church or chapel outside the Hospital, although
their spiritual wants were supposed to be catered for inside. There was a little
chapel in East Street-dissenting, of course, but I don't remember its special
sect-constructed apparently out of an old-time barn, which was affected
principally by Collegemen. It contained an enormous pulpit, so big in comparison
with the very moderate size of the room that the preacher might almost have used
a bo'sun's rattan round the congregation in the event of signs of somnolence or
punctuated precepts with taps of a belaying-pin. It was indeed an imposing [-206-]
quarter-deck, and, I fancy, must have been purchased second-hand from
some place of worship of much larger measurement, for it was altogether too
grand for an otherwise extremely humble domicile. The poor worshippers appeared
very much in earnest, and made the neighbourhood resound with their hymns. Their
special favourite was Cowper's well-known-
"There is a fountain filled with blood
Drawn from
Emmanuel's veins,
And sinners, plunged beneath that
flood,
Lose all their
guilty stains."
The old tars used to roar out the six or seven verses to the
original well-marked melody, which accentuates admirably the words calling for
emphasis, with right good-will, so that passers-by had to hear whether they
wanted to or not. It seemed a part of every service, so much so that the tune
became known locally as the Collegemen's hymn. What could have been its
attraction for the old salts ? Why did they consider it a likely ratlin for
their climb to heaven? The blood flavour? Accustomed as they had been to
desperate fighting, warfare and carnage for the best years of their lives; to
think, talk and dream about it; to regard it as the mainspring of their
prize-money, fortunes and ambitions: I imagined that very likely the habit had
persisted and engrossed them so much that now, in the "sere and yellow
leaf," it came natural and comforting to associate blood with religion and
redemption. Poor old chaps!
Others of their favourites were-
"On the other side of Jordan, in
the sweet fields of Eden,
Where the
Tree of Life is blooming, there is rest for you"
and,
"We sing of the realms of the
blest,
That country
so bright and so fair;
And of t are its glories
confessed-
But what must
it be to be there ?"
Although not ostensibly open to the public, the various wards
of the Hospital were accessible to those with sufficient assurance to assume a
pretence of having business there. [-207-] I
wandered about them often and was never once challenged. Under the buildings are
long arched stone corridors yielding long vistas and giving a suggestion of
interminability. Along these we boys sometimes raced neck-and-neck. In King
Charles's Ward was the great model under glass of the Battle of Trafalgar which
now stands in the United Service Museum, Whitehall, not improved by its
transfer, since the ocean waves are now much more distinctly divided into
squares than they were at Greenwich. Nelson knew how to join battle apparently
better than others know how to join the mere model of it. We saw it often and
listened deferentially to descriptions of the momentous engagement by those who
professed to have been there all the while. In the Painted Hall were the Nelson
relics: the coat in which the hero was killed, his decorations, etc. Some, such
as the custodians of these national treasures have not allowed to be stolen, are
there to this day. One of the yarns connected with the Hall was that the ornate
ceiling was painted by the artist lying on his back on a scaffolding, and that
he contracted some dreadful spinal disease in consequence.
There was a kindly atmosphere about the Hospital. The nurses
were evidently on good terms with their old and suffering charges; visitors were
freely allowed, and although discipline was, of course, necessary, it was only
what the tars had been accustomed to. There were no outward signs of harshness,
nor did the Collegemen complain.
Alas! in 1865 all this happiness and contentment was put an
end to by Act of Parliament. At the instigation, it was said, of the Duke of
Somerset, it was resolved to take only infirm and helpless sailors and marines
into the Hospital and to assign out-pensions to all others. Moreover, inmates
already there were to be offered out-pensions if able-bodied enough to leave. It
was argued that such out-pensions would enable many to live with relatives or
friends, and by relieving them from the (assumed) ignominy of wearing uniform
and submitting to the restrictions of what was, after all, only a glorified
pauperdom, gratify their sense of independence. Unfortunately, Mr. Gladstone and
his lieutenants were won over by the huge economies promised. [-208-]
Out of some 1,350 inmates largely of dubious capacity to look after
themselves in a world from which they had long been secluded, some 950 accepted
out-pensions, to the great jubilation of the politicians or cranks who had
engineered the cruel and dishonourable renunciation of the nation's promises and
engagements with its seamen and marines.
The fateful day came, on September 26th. Each man was given
an advance or bonus in cash - there was no meanness about Great Britain! - and
at the gates he found his friends, and lots of 'em. The manner in which uncles,
aunts, nephews and nieces, not to mention wives, sprang out of nowhere to
welcome the dear old salts with money in their pockets and weekly stipends of
14s. to follow on was remarkable. And there were worse. Brazen-faced hussies
walked off with doddering old sillies, while male harpies were not lacking. That
same night some of the men were penniless and slept in casual wards; others got
locked up for drunkenness. And those who escaped such snags were not always
better off. Instead of the roomy, airy wards and dormitories of the Hospital and
its wholesome and regular, if plain, food, very many had to pig in with already
crowded families in insanitary houses and to take pot-luck of whatever happened
to be going. Those inclined to drink lost the beneficent restraint of the
Hospital and went to the bad by the nearest road. No doubt there were lucky ones
to whom the change meant improvement, but they must have been exceptional, for
the tales of the mortality which followed the reform (!) were appalling. John
Bull had to pay but few of the allowances long. God preserve Chelsea Hospital
from such reform!
These deplorable effects had been foreseen by local men who
understood the Collegeman and his ways, and pointed out in good time to the
Government, but in vain.
Having emptied the Hospital, the
authorities were at a loss what to do with it. Yet when, in 1867, it was desired
to abolish the floating seamen's hospital Dreadnought and transfer the
patients to part of the empty premises, the Lords of the Admiralty made all
sorts of difficulties. In 1868 the Pall Mall Gazette rated them soundly:
"Buildings [-209-] capable of accommodating,
3,000 have only 350 inmates, which cost £120 per annum each, instead of £60 in
the old, in-pension days - splendid revenues misapplied and diverted. The Lancet
found "the smell of desolation about the place." The Times, in
1869, said that "except for the Governor, who draws £3,000 a year, and a
lot of officials mostly doing nothing, the Hospital is practically empty."
I paid a farewell visit there in May, 1869, before starting for India and
learned that it was the intention to remove the remainder of the infirm
pensioners to Netley! And so the job was completed. The impulse may be an unjust
one, but I rarely pass a statue or picture of Gladstone without my thoughts
involuntarily reverting to the poor Greenwich Collegemen.
I regretted the disappearance of the picturesque old Dreadnought
keenly, for I had known her at the same old moorings since childhood and
without her towering bulk and black-and-white streaks the Thames hardly looked
the same. She was famous throughout the world, for no sick seaman, whatever his
nationality, was ever refused admission to her hospitable tween decks. She was
run by the Seamen's Hospital Society on voluntary contributions.
The original Hospital ship, placed in position about 1837, was the actual Dreadnought
of 98 guns which fought at Trafalgar, where she captured the Spanish three-decker
San Juan and sustained a loss of seven killed and twenty-six wounded. She
had been removed in 1857 and replaced by another three-decker of very similar
appearance, to which the old name was transferred. Her real one I do not
remember. In twenty years over 63,000 patients had been accommodated, and the
charity was a very noble one.